Long story short, I broke a valvespring and dropped a valve.(we all know how that ends up). I'm planning a new rebuild and had some ideas, but wanted other people's advice on it.

I'm considering raising my compression to around 14:1 and trying a different set of cams. My setup was 13.6:1 comp. With skunk2 pro 2's. I'm considering switching it up to pro 3's to get more out of the motor. Another idea was a Ericks Racing 85x92 stroker setup.( wanting to hit somewhere around 270whp)

I'm not familiar with stroker kits, but I do know you can't rev as high, and that's where the pro 3's would be best at?

I have OBX itb's right now, I like how it sounds and how responsive it is but I know there holding me back also. Been thinking about saving up for Kinsler 52mm's, or going with a manifold setup. I am highly confused about what manifold, throttle body, and intake to use with that idea. My goal is good low end power, but a very broad powerband with massive top end power.

Thanks in advance for the ideas, really looking forward to other people's input!!!

 

Have you considered switching to a different platform such as H or K? Might as well build a bad *** K for all the money you would throw at getting a b to 270+hp.

 

I already have a good platform for a B. Plus I like the respect of having a B series still since most people these days are swapping to K's

 

a 85x92 will give you a good low end boost if you ask me.

 

respect in the honda world is overrated, power vs price is what your looking for, i would have went H or K to be honest. going B these days is out of sheer convenience more then anything else.

 

I understand the whole K swap thing, but spending 5k+ when it's all said and done, just to make 260hp? That's absurd. Surprisingly, some people do still prefer a B-series.

For the price of a K swap, you could have a built and boosted B with well over 260hp. Now, NA, that's not going to happen, but I say stay B, and do what you want with it.

Except the fact your motor just dropped a valve, it might be better and less of a hastle to just swap a K. I don't know...

 

Needs bigger cams.

 

shitt......5k and get 260hp is one hell of a deal. where can i sign up for that package?


oh wait...

 

Didn't say "gain" 260... fukka k.

 

What cams would beat suite me? A custom grind or like a roller rocker setup?

 

Guess nobody has interests in B-series anymore...wow that sucks. Figured I'd get some more informative info on the subject. Guess not.

Let's go another route, let me know your ideas for your perfect motor!! Whether it's B, D, H, or K!! Don't be bashful now, throw me some ideas. (remember keep it n/a)

 

there are still alot of ppl running b's

 

the 250-260 whp range seems to be the more common area for the serious b builds anything above those numbers will cost a bit

 

Go with a B, it's still a great engine, so while everyone hops on the K bandwagon, there's more B's out there for you and me lol

 

You'll need something bigger then pro3's.

 

just use this as inspiration and stick with the b-series lol http://youtu.be/oxYksLKg_V0

 

False.

You can literally buy a k24a4 longblock for $300 with papers locally. Probably even less depending where you live. Buy some RS machine ITR rep pistons or supertech, with some eagle rods and you have a bottom end capable of high 200whp or low 300whp for a bit over 1k. You'll spend that much just on sleeving to make a gsr 84mm.

When its all said and done you'd have maybe the same amount if not a bit more into a built k-series instead of a stock one.

You just have to be a smart shopper and look on k20a.org for deals.

My friend made 263whp with rs machines on stock tsx rods and a completely stock head, through a stock RBC, stock TB, turd dc swap header and 2.5 inch exhaust.


If its too much $ look into H2B jaywest has made 25xwhp with a completely stock bottom end just pro1s and some minor head work.

Building up a b-series to make that power is not worth it. Especially if it isn't a b20 bottom end.

lol If you plan to boost a setup id suggest K even more. Those motors hold up to 6xxwhp stock longblock and ive seen 8xxwhp on stock sleeves.

 

stick to the FI forum paco

 

This got interesting haha. Well, I already have a 84mm sleeved gsr, got it for next to nothing. I guess 270 isn't realistic for my setup in a street car. I'd be happy with the 240-260 range. I'm thinking about selling my crankshaft and rods to go with a 92mm crank, or maybe even 95mm and a 85-86 bore.

 

I don't know anyone that would sleeve a b-series for high 200's low 300's hp, my LSVTEC forged rod/piston combo cost me $450, and you are talking about "a little over" 1k for cast pistons on eagle rods... come on now.

But you are saying you can build a K for less than buying a stock one, but then you still have to buy

Charging harness, engine harness, k-pro, hybrid axles, mounts, shifter box, shift linkages, fuel rail, fuel lines, injectors, intake manifold, throttle body, header, exhaust, and more miscellaneous ****. Not worth it IMO.

and if you buy a complete swap (stock) when said and done still over 5k. For what? 200hp out of a k20a2, 215hp out of a k20a if you find one.

And don't even get me started on the cost of turboing after a kswap, the price alone of a tubular manifold for a kswap is ridiculous., you will spend another 3k if your lucky for a turbo setup.

 

Just cause I'm on HT doesn't mean I'm puerto rican, chief. And I'll spend time in any section I want, thanks for the recommendation though, should I call you wong fu since you drive a honda?

 

no one in this forum wants to talk about boost. notice this is the all motor forum. If he wanted to go boost, he would have posted in the forced induction forum.

everyone knows boost is easier to make power but some people rather not take the easy way out to make a little power.


So unless you are going to help the guy with his ALL MOTOR goal, keep your boosted talk to yourself.

sincerely,
the all motor section

 

I never said you NEED to sleeve a 1.8l because of stress on the sleeves or anything i said this because you would need to go 84mm to be able to reach those goals. (which is needed because 1.8-1.9l don't have enough displacement to reach those high goals all motor).

Me personally i have never seen a true 1.8l honda motor make high 2's or low 3's thats an outrageous claim.

When you buy a longblock it comes with engine harness and charge harness. Im not going to get indept but lets just say with 2k you can have all the supporting mod's needed to get your k-swap into a vehicle.

I have a friend who made 240-250whp (cant remember) on a bone stock k20z1 long block on e85 with the full bolt ons. To make that with a gsr block you need sleeving, aftermarket cams and valvetrain, full bolt on's (manifold, header, tuned intake, tb, etc...), pistons, rods(not needed depending on what pistons you want to run), head work blah blah blah so on so forth.

Look at tonio's build if your serious about staying B-series, OP. If your on a budget go with a b20 bottom end, you need that displacement to make what you want to make.

IMO go H or K don't bother trying to make that with a b-series.

Ive seen way better prices on full k-series turbo kits but thats irrelevant. Like what q16 said wrong forum for this.

 

Don't get me wrong, if I wanted a 270-320hp all motor engine, I would no doubt go K, but he already has the B and ITB's and such for it, and (well his HP goal is a little out there) he could make about 250hp with the right build, which is plenty for most people, and I think it will be fine for him. If he decides he wants more power than that, which the B can't really offer without boost, then maybe he will go K down the road.

And trust me, I would love to go K, but for the money and effort involved, not worth it right now. Maybe after my LSV-T is done, and I get tired of it, I just might go K.

I guess you didn't realize that I was replying to dirtyharry's comment "if I were going to boost something it would be a K".

Read before you talk. Kthanksbye

 

Yes, I don't want boost!! Plus I like the forged sleeves since I know they can take the pressure if a rod or piston does give. The only reason I like n/a is the fact of a awesome yet responsive powerband. Boost just doesn't cut it with all the lag and crap. Plus, I'm not putting 10k in a whole new motor, I can reuse most of my parts I have. Just because a valve dropped doesn't mean every single part in the engine needs replaced...