I have a h23vtec bluetop with supertech vt and skunk2 pro 1 cams. Had this setup for less then 3k miles. I don’t drag race, mainly do track days which is 4 30min sessions of hardcore driving. Oil used was Mobil1 10w30 then I recently switched to Mobil1 0w40. Oil pressure was consistant and temps were about 230 on track days. Valve adjustment was done to oem specs when cams were installed.
I was doing some wot pulls and notice vtec was not kicking in, so I take off the vtec solenoid and found a lot of metal shaving on the screen.
Found all exhaust rockers to be eaten to death and some wear on the exhaust cam. Intake cam and intake rocker have nothing at all.



Video of camshaft wear
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_Nn8...ature=youtu.be

questions are
1) What can I do to ensure I flush out the metal shavings of the rockers from engine?

2) I have a spare head at home with about 110k miles, should I just use those exhaust rockers on the pro1 head? Or should I buy a complete new set of rockers from Honda??

3) for the Skunk2 pro1 exhaust cam, can I reuse it, will the wear affect performance? Should I just get a new ex cam?

4) any idea how/why this **** happened??

 

i remember a while back someone talking about if the vtec engagement was to low it would cause a problem with extreme wear on the rocker pads. Just look in the all motor section for

 

vtec engagement is at 5500rpm,

 

This is where you may want to contact Skunk2Brian or give him a call at skunk2 direct, and let him know your questions.

 

That cam is ****ed. I would call up Skunk2 to discuss your options.

IMO, the oil you were using is probably a significant contributor to the wear. IIRC, thee was a case of another H22 eating up rocker pads, and the conclusion was that the issues stemmed from the oil used.

Are you sure that all of your clearances were adequate?

Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to use the used rockers with a new exhaust cam. Many will suggest buying new rockers though.

When I set up my Pro2s, B series, I check the contact patch between the rocker pads and cam, as well as the rocker to the LMA. No issues were found with my personal setup, so I proceeded.

It might be worth looking into. Again with it being only the exhaust side, I really think that oil quality is the issue. The heat buildup on that side of the head is most likely more significant than the intake side.

Also, I am a pretty big fan of using an external -6 oil line to feed the head with aggressive cams. More oil volume should be available to help keep the valvetrain cool.

Just my thoughts, and other should feel free to pick them apart.

 

sent skunk2 pm, awaiting reply. just checked online and saw that one set of rocker costs 109$ ouch

 

that was for vtec engagement too high and retainer wear from the vtec rocker.

 

I have about ten spare heads with perfect rockers . If you need some ill sell you a set cheap.

 

thanks jones, i'm going to use the ones i have on my spare head.
i think my best bet is to add a oil line to the head and run a better choice oil for next time.

 

Consider running a zinc additive if you stick with mobil1. The lack of zinc in api certified oil's does not help the rocker pads at all.

 

Dont think that the cam cause these problems, my friend.

 

What oil did you run, Its the oil/valve spring combo. Are you running Skunk 2 Springs? I never liked them their seat pressure is crazy high and unless your running High Zinc/Phos oil it will do this every time. Run either Torco or Brad Penn Oil and u wont have this issue anymore.

 

switch to a valvoline vr1 and change it after every trackday....

 

60 lb seat pressure is not what I would call "crazy high" at all. Supertech springs for H series on the other hand...

Granted I don't have a clue what H series nominal installed height is.



Also, just noticed the OEM valve lash specs used. I would suggest using what the cam manufacturer specifies for valve lash settings. Again, I don't know what OEM specs are for an H series.

 

I'm sure that the oil that u used is the problem. The reason why mobil 1 or most syn's don't have the additive called zinc phosphate that protects metals anymore. Running the valvoline vr racing oils found in parts stores everywear is the best oil to use. Also the rotella 15/40 weight oil is the best that i have used. I use this oil in my motorcycle and the h23vtec.

I have had a similar situation to ur's where i started running the 15/40 rotella then i switch to castrol syntec full syn's and then i got a rod knock from hell which ended up being a lesson learned. But so far so good for the rotella. I'd really like to know what oils are the all motor low 10's guys are running for oil.

 

exactly, your using the wrong oil. Brad Penn or somthing designed for flat tappet rockers should be used.

 

Rotella has tons of zinc. This was on e85 correct? how old was the oil?

 

thanks guys, brian and joe from skunk2 responded quickly and answered all my questions. I ordered a new ex cam.I'm still on pump 93,
I'm going to research more on oil,
Good choices so far look like (torco, Royal purple, Valvoline vr1,)

Oil was just changed before track event.

 

Redline is another good one.

 

Highly doubt mobil1 was the cause of this.

 

what else could it be?? Oil temp on track was 230, AFR were at 12.7-13.0

 

mobil 1 can certainly be the cause, it doesnt have the needed zinc.

i have seen this several times first hand and simply replacing the rockers/cams and switching to royal purple solved the problem. but you still need to check and make sure your rockers arent bottoming out and you arent getting coil bind which isnt likely on the pro 1s but anythings possible.

you have another issue as well, your vtec screen is full of metal which means your motor is likely full of metal and needs to be completely torn down.

i doubt that metal came from your rocker wear, it would have had to get back down in the pan and past the filter to get into the screen. i think something else is wrong.

drop the pan and see whats in the bottom.

if it were me i would take the motor apart and check everything. after its back together i would run royal purple, it works.

 

i'll take off oil pan tom to take a look, better safe then sorry
Just a thought: I thought that if metal shaving came from bottom end, it would be really tough for it to end up in the head cause of oil filter and pickup screen. Last engine had a spun bearing, and oil pan was full of ****, but head was clean, nothing in vtec solenoid neither.

 

did you drop that pan yet ?

 

also there is no reason to run an extra oil feed line to the head, trust me.

just make sure you removed the h23 oil orifice from the block surface before you bolted the head on. that could actually be your problem.