I have a B18C GSR engine in my civic and I live in California. I got the the setup BAR'd a while back but now interested in getting a little more power while staying BAR'd. I know I can't do much but what options are available if any? I'm thinking of getting CARB legal parts; intake manifold, intake, cams, adjustable cam gears. I know they won't make any power gains without a proper tune. Is a tune possible while allowing me to stay California legal or will I be wasting my time and money?

 

obd2a to obd1 jumper with a socketed p28 and your choice of tuning solution.
when it comes time to smog put the stock obd2a ecu back in.

 

LOL. I honestly never thought about going that route...Haha! Any thoughts about piggyback systems like VAFC or the like?

 

People used those for a long time but modern chip emulators do a much better job.

I've got Neptune RTP but I kept my old ECU in case I need it for inspection. I spliced in quick connectors so I can easily swap it out.

 

Would it be worth it to leave all engine parts stock, get an obd1 ecu and jumper, chip it, flash it, get it tuned?

 

with cams, yes

 

so far I'm researching that SK2 Tuner Stage 1 camshafts are the only CARB legal camshafts but I was wondering about valve springs and retainers. If I'm changing cams, do you all recommend upgrading springs too? Or is that overkill? I'm not looking to be the fastest down the 1/4. I just want to start modding but putting the toward the most useful for a little fun on the streets.

 

According to Skunk2 the stock valvetrain is fine, however that would make me very nervous. I would at the bare minimum upgrade to ITR intake springs and move the GSR intake springs to the exhaust. For not a lot more you could just get aftermarket springs and not have to worry.

Your two major issues are going to be float and bind. With weaker springs you will float your valves at lower rpm, so stiffer springs give more high-rpm security. Since you're going for higher lift cams you'll also float sooner than with GS-R cams.

Bind happens at 11.7 mm with GS-R intake and ITR springs. ITR cams lift to 11.5, but S2S1 lift to 11.6. So the SK2 intake is going to be 0.1 mm to bind (< 0.004 in). That is not a lot of clearance...

 

Yes, that's very little with that combination. I know you're recommending cams and I understand why. What's your thoughts on just an intake manifold, headers, and 2.5-3inch exhaust system? What kind of gains should I be expecting when tuning with just those bolt ons?

 

A GSR with boltons will gain a few whp max. A tune will give another few. You're going to be hard pressed to gain more than 10 whp especially in CARB parts (the header/cat are the killers there). If you stick with boltons it may not be worth the hassle and expense of a tune in your case. Keep in mind GSRs are rich stock. Theres room for mild mods in that extra fuel.

I'd also skip the IM. The GS-R IM is probably the best available IM for builds less than 180-200 whp. You're money would be better spent on ITR or stage 1 cams, IMO. Those will also let you take advantage of bolt ons and make 180+ whp possible with a tune and boltons.

 

Awesome. But with ITR cams, it's suggested that I replace the valve springs as well? 180-200 would be ideal for me so thanks for inputting where I should spend my money to reach those goals. Again, not looking to be the fastest kid on the block...

 

AFAIK ITR cams can get you to about 180-185 whp before you need to start doing a lot of work.

For ITR cams some people get away with using GSR valve springs but it would make me a little nervous. ITR exhaust springs are identical to GSR intake springs, but the ITR intake springs have a different part number and are apparently stiffer (to prevent float). I have heard a rumor that 1997 ITRs used GSR intake springs, however, and some people on this forum have certainly used them. If you do get valvesprings you can get just the ITR intake springs and move your GSR intake springs to the exhaust valves.

If you decide on stage 1 cams you need to look at the lift settings to decide which route to take.

 

I just posted this in another thread....



""Well there is an option.. Its crude, but it DOES work if you have a tuner that knows what he's doing. You can always install an AEM FIC. They work great for allowing you to tune a vehicle while not affecting the factory controls for emmisions. The trick is, with an FIC you can't advance ignition. It only allows you to retard it. So what I do in cases like this is I advance the distributor a few degrees, lets say 6 deg, then I pull that 6 deg out with the FIC, and now you have a 6 deg window of advance and unlimited retard to play with. The fuel control the FIC offers works well and u should have no issues getting everything working in harmony. Like I said its a bit crude due to having to work around the ignition limitation, but the FIC works very well for this type of situation if you do it properly.

On that same principle, even though a lot of people might say it sucks, UniChip is also a very comprehensive piggy back that gives you the ability to advance and retard timing. its approach to fueling is a bit different than the FIC, so for certain setups I wouldn't recommend it, but for what your doing it will work just fine. Only down side with the Unichip is you have to find a UniChip dealer to tune it, or someone who has the interface cable and software.

I've used both quite a bit, and either one will do the trick for your application and not interfere with the ECUs OBD2 compliance. ""