***Update Please help***

Background. Bought a 94 integra ls automatic. 140k. The block said B18A on it instead of B and I dont know which head was on it. Same goes for ecu not sure which is in it. Also The car had a cone filter very poorly taped onto the throttle body. So the car was not taken car of very well. The car seemed to run okay idled fine just had a rich smell and would sometimes bog down. Well a month goes by I put a stock intake boot on the throttle body with a newer cone filter everything nice and snug. Gave it a tune up (plugs, wires, oil, fuel filter). Still ran okay but still smelled rich. Then one day in the morning i tried to start the car and it would not idle and ran very very poorly. My mechanic did a compression test on it and it showed horrible numbers. He took it apart and could move a few of the pistons around in the cylinder walls. I found a used b18b bare block with head that had 150k.

My mechanic put it in and used all the previous sensors and accesories from the b18a engine. My car will not idle when cold. It will start up fine but drop slowly and die out unless i give the car gas. You can also tell the engine is still running rich by the smell. When it warms up it idles but rough. Also seems to be getting poor gas mileage.

Things my mechanic or I have gone through/done...
- Three IACVS all cleaned
- Two FITVS both cleaned
- Full tune-up
- O2 Sensor
- MAF sensor
- Coolant temp sensor

Could the car eventhough its 95 have a b18a ecu because of the previous motor and it isnt running the b18b correctly? Any of the sensors or distributor, etc off the other block maybe couldve been b18a sensors not work well with the b18b?

The vacuum reads at 15 lbs.

My mechanic who is certified and all that jazz says it seems as if there is a big vacuum leak somewhere or the timing is way retarded(slow). But he has checked both.

what is wrong!? Please Help!

Thanks,

Korey

 

check the fitv for sure.
also, check the resistance of the coolant temp sensor. first cold, then hot. see if it falls within spec

and when you say "it idles alright when warm but not like it should". what does it do?

 

It is still a bit rough and doesn't seem to be smooth and consistent. Where can the fitv's be purchased reasonably?

 

More insight would be much appreciated...

 

the fitv is purely mechanical. it can be serviced

here's the link:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...highlight=fitv

 

Thank you

 

Bump Still having same issues. Please help!

 

assuming your vacuum is 15in/hg, not pounds, that is a tad low. when reading the gauge, the needle should hold steady. does it? you can try running the car with the throttle opening covered. if it doesn't stall, there's a vac leak somewhere
have you checked for codes? even if the CEL isn't illuminated, a code may be stored, so check that.
since the problem was occurring with the previous engine, i'd suspect anything that was transferred, or on the car previously.
check the catalytic convertor. try unbolting it and see how it runs. also, are there any exhaust leaks upstream of the o2 sensor?
another thing you may want to check is tps. use a voltmeter. it should read .5v throttle closed, 4.5v WOT.
has fuel pressure been checked?
attach a fuel pressure gauge. watch the needle. when the car dies, does the pressure drop first, then stall? or vise versa?


the b18a (pr4) ecu will not plug into your obd1 connectors.

 

- All sensors look good on my mechanics snap-on computer that reads codes
- 15 inches of vacuum and yeah it hold steady
- No Cat Converter
- I will check to see if car runs with throttle covered and check tps voltage shortly
- Another note my mechanic wanted me to check iginiton timing spec he said it is at 3 degrees advanced I believe

Korey

 

14-18* btdc is spec

 

Timing was in spec. Still same issue.

My mechanic did a leak down test and he said cylinder 1 failed and the others passed. He says cracked block becuase head was surfaced and tested. keep in mind the motor has fullly new engine gasket set.

Any thoughts?

Much appreciated,

Korey

 

that's not going to keep it from idling cold. it could have 1 completely dead cylinder and still run, albeit poorly.

have you checked the codes yet?
which ecu is in there?
test that the iacv is operating correctly. it should be pulling air past the throttle plate when cold.
what is the idle set at?