So I have a B18CR in my 89 CRX, but I do have another 88 CRX. The 88 was meant to be my daily driver. I was going to put the engine from the 89 in the 88, because it is 100k less miles. But I was thinking, if I had a 1k budget on it, what should I do to it before or after putting it in?

 

What kind of question is this exactly? You do whatever you want of course or whatever NEEDs to be done. This type of thread doesn't really jive with the rules either. So what is your technical question?

 

Are you trying to ask what mods can you do for 1000 ? You can do a lot.

 

Not any that are worth doing... There are pros and cons to everything but to do it right, $1k isn't going to get you far.

 

since your question is not that clear, i'll give you what I would do:

in this order
1) take off head, get valve job done, shave the head by .055 (yes i know it's a lot)
2) valve springs which are snap fit designe like bisimoto or rocketmotorsorts
3) delta 272, expospeed stg2 or bisi level 1 cam
4) cam gear
5) used edble brock header or ebay 4-2-1 header
6) chipped po6 cover to obd1 + crome
7) have cam degreeded in and tune...

should cost you $1000-1200 depending on where you find the parts

 

Oh I know. I was just generally speaking. It won't get him far but I mean it could be something.

 

Uh Idk about that maybe with a B series but with a D series its pretty easy to spend a grand and have a some what "Built" engine and later down the road spend another 500-700 and complete it

 

d series is hard to keep streetable comfortably N/A
I say rebuild it to stock specs but with better components
new valve train
bisi level 2 cam is suppose to be mild enough for street
have stronger sleeves put in
arp bolts
balance crank and pulley
forged pistons and rods
bore stock throttle
act 12 lb flywheel
dc sport header
hondata gasket
adjustable cam gear
new everything; thermostat t belt waterpump seals gaskets o rings
should be bullet proof reliable daily with 35 mpg and rather quick fun

 

Do a oem rebuild or sell it and the motor. Then you can pick up a wagon as a dd and toss a mattress in the back so you can...you know...

 

sorry but that is overkill on the parts and overkill on the budet lol

stock sleeves are good for about 300whp.. done it several of times no big than
if you want the BASIC aftermarket sleeves like darton 300 series flanged sleeves it's $1270 after installed, honed, decked, cleaned

you have a d16... which won't see more than 7500rpms at most with mild cams.
no way do you need to wast $100-150 to balance your crank.
honda cranks a already balanced and unless you have some messed up crank with a chip in it or a spun rod crank journal you need to have turned down a little, there's no reason to balance a crank

forged rod and piston... really for what?
remember $1K budegt
STOCK D rods with arp rod bolts will be fine up to about 225-240whp boosted and only cost $33 for the 8mm bolt/nuts


Bore stock TB? no way
ge a GSR 60mm tb for $40 max
or ... just get a Omni 70mm for $99 shipped
cheaper that what a machine shop will charge to BORE and ad a custom throttle plate.


keep your stock retainers and bisi valve springs or rocketmotorsports valve springs.
stock retainers are good to like 9K with no issues. I have then in my d16a6 exospeed stage2 cam and the car see 8K with no issues.


good luck sir

 

Charlie..


We DO NOT allow common sense posts here at H-T. You have to overbuild everything to exacting JDM specs! Sheesh, what were you thinking?

/end sarcasm

 

So roughly $925 not including gaskets or fluids. Now take into consideration that half the parts you have are complete garbage. I would make a cam gear out of wood before I would use one of those junk ones. This is also making a big assumption that the OP can tune himself and has the equipment to do so. Like burn chips and monitor the engine. So add a minimum of $200 for a street tune unless you know somebody that can do it for you. Regardless, it's still not worth doing in my eyes and I don't consider this "half built" either - slapped together more like it. Also, judging by the OP saying that engine has 100k less, a stock rebuild would be better than upgrading parts and still having a higher milage block. So again I state - Nothing that's worth doing.

 

I'll look into this. Seems like the best answer so far. I guess by shaving the head so much, you expect to get higher compression. Where did you come up with .055?

I am surprised no-one suggested just turboing it.

I had about $500 set aside to rebuild the engine oem, gaskets, clutch, rings ands such. But wondered if it was worth putting more into. Wanted to leave it open ended to get other ideas than what I had. Again I have a full build going on with a B18C Type R, so this doesn't have to be all out.

 

The reason nobody said turbo because if this is supposed to be a daily drivable there is NO way you could make it reliable. You could get a bunch of used unknown parts and put something together, but in my opinion that would be illogical.

 

Man, an all motor D-Series? Boring! Lol

Put your money into the B for the other car. For the D, the only way I see it being much fun is with boost. That's not in your budget to do correctly. Just freshen up your gaskets and such like you plan to and enjoy the mpg.

 

are you speaking from experiance?


also did you not see my disclosure that it would be $1000 give or take a few bucks depending of you know what parts to by, buy them used or get prices cheaper if you have contacts at large shops. Sorry that i have to had feed that info.

Sorry for the typo, not .055 but .45 is the most i've done a d series head, you'll have some slack on the bet but nothing you can fix by manually adjusting the tensioner.
Cost effective way to bump up the compression.
down side is that if you ever need to resurface your head you probably will have little room to do so. also you will need to get the timing maps tuned.

I can get 5 angle valve jobs done for $150 and some slight bowl work but not much PORTING at all simply because with a basic build a good valve job is most beneficial, not some port matching gaskets or porting the heck out of the head. With small motors think about velocity over volume..

rocketmotorsports valve train $145 includes new viton valve seals
use stock seats and retainers.

delta 272 cam... group buy is only $78+shipping, reg price is like $90...

ebay cam gear but make sure it has at least 5 bolts..
should only cost you $40 shipped.
with todays technology, many companies can make cam gears with very very good precision and cnc. Please do use lock tite once you have degreed the cam and know your setting. Once you degree it, there is no reason why you need to play with the cam setting in most peoples cases. This is not like it was in 2002 when ebay parts or no name parts was junk. Don't knock it until you try it.

ebay head is junk? compared to what DC, greddy, apexi...
bang for buck it works prefectly fine. The only thing i've ever had to do with them is slighly enlarge the holes on the header flange if it's too tight of a fit.
For $50 you can't go wrong with it. I doubt other $175 - $200 header will perform better, the only execption is the discontinued (but still can be found new) Edlebrock header which has decent design and collector. I paid $178 shipped for mine direct from the company... normally they sell for closer to $260 when it was released years ago.

go on local honda forms. i'm sure someone there can chip your ecu for $30-$40 max.. find a po6 for $50ish. download crome and install it.
drive your car to your tuner.
easy..

Degree is not easy to do, most shops charge +$250 and almost always prefer to do it with the engine OUT of the car. Luckly my best friend can do it for me for free.

If you don't have the means to degree it, there are plenty of people who have delta, exospeed, bisi cam which will be able to share with you their simple setup and what their cam is set to. Also most companies will give you a general idea of what the safe can setting is.

also there is no "right" way to do what has been done countless of ways.
so don't get noobs started off by directing them to only spending money on high end parts of which at this stage of their hobby doesn't require it.

How many people do you know bought an AEM intake or full $450 ss exhaust when their setup didn't even call for it. equal gains cold of been acheived more cost effectivly if they did reasearch and also took time to understand why certain parts are made why they are made.

I'm not trying to flame you at all... i'm just saying there are faults in telling them $1k is not enough to gain some decent power...

Cheers - OP if you have any questions just ask away and I'll try to answer them or point you to someone else who may know how to best answer it.

Charlie

 

boosting is not an option on 1k unless you had nice friend that have parts they don't need.
I've tried to piece together the bust bang for buck turbo kit I can possibly find using decent parts and spending more money on the turbo, good oil line, injectors & saving extra for tuning.
It still comes to $1600 at min.

I could piece together a rebuilt t25 turbo kit with hf manifold and adapter but it would be a pretty "rough" kit. Possible to do for $900 -$1000 but i wouldn't personally sugguest it.
I only sugguest what i would be willing to do myself.

I never sugguest boost to noobs even if they have enough money. I always tell them that having or knowing people with boosted cars who are knowledgeable is more assuring that they will have a good experiance or else you'll see them on honda-tech making thread how their turbo car sucks or how they blew up their motor and NOT KNOW WAY it happened.

 

Am I speaking from direct experience with the cheaper end eBay stuff? Not directly (I make enough money where I don't have to) but I have seen plenty enough of my kid's friends stuff break to not want to touch the crap. Headers cracking, timing gears slipping, LSD's exploding, camshafts snapping, ect... I just won't recommend to anyone things that could potentially destroy their engine. I understand living on a budget - but if you can't afford to "play" wit your car the right way - WHY do it at all? Nobody said you have to buy top shelf parts to be reliable - but it also doesn't help to buy garbage that isn't on the shelf to begin with either. I went to Bisi's website since YOU recomended those parts and pulled the prices directly. You make TONS of assumptions that the guy has all these connections. I am sorry but most of the "tuner" kids I see act like they... Well let's just put it this way - I don't hang out with the "crowd". So all these group buys and friends stuff should NOT be factored in especially when he is coming on here asking. Sure the parts may only cost so much but the work or labor may be well outside his price range.

A 5-angle valve job for $150? Degreeing in a cam for $250? Those prices are absurd. Degreeing in a camshaft is extremely easy - you just have to have the specs and the equipment. You also have to remember everywhere is different. The Chicago-land area does kind of rape you when it comes to automotive work - too many yuppies.

Then again this is a lot of assuming going on. You are assuming he has all these people to sell/give him used parts and free services. It just pisses me off when I see kids bringing stuff they "tried" to do to my shop then begging me to fix it for nothing because - "Oh but I spent all my money on these garbage parts and now it's messed up, I am just a broke college/high school kid, blah blah blah". So I refuse their business and I still make a nice comfortable profit. So I sit on here(and other sites) to try and keep a lot of the rift-raft out of mine and other people's shops.

So yeah, sorry for my rant but I guess my "opinion" on doing it "right" involves at minimum middle of the road parts and proper time spent installing and tuning the parts. I have been "in the Honda game" for almost 20 years - I don't know it all but I have seen a lot come and go. Things sure have evolved that's for sure. This has gone away from topic too much - for that I apologize OP - Back to topic... Oh yeah and...

Different folks - different strokes.

 

You could always just buy my drop out lol full swap ahah

 

Take out the D16A6
Sell it to some poor sap for $ or trade for OBD1 jumper harness.
Buy D16Z6 or D16Y8 with ECU for no more than $500.
Simple refresh new motor with gaskets and such.
Put new motor in
Gain 20hp (with mad vtechs, yo!) with no hassle of using any garbage parts.

 

yes that's a good route too

 

Drop in Sohc ZC from Hmotors
/thread

 

I've got an adaptor harness, who's got the a6? I'm all about this deal.

 

I have a y6 head, block, and other parts at my parents house 300 miles away. The crank's key-way ripped out. I have a y6 or z8 intake with me. The U-Pull lot hat a y6 head also. I guess a mini-me swap isn't a bad idea.

 

I assume you mean Z6 and Y8?