Hey guys , I have a 94 accord and I recently replaced the brakes. After a test drive I noticed the driver rear brakes are sticking. Abs light has been on since I owned the car. I got the code and it's a error code 1 and it's says hydraulic pump system over ran , or somewhere along those lines.

My question is , what may be the problem? Is the abs causing the brakes to stick or is it just a bad caliper? I changed all the brakes and the only one that was bad was the driver side rear pad on the inside of the rotor. I also replaced the master Cylinder. I checked the little box in the front of th car on the left side where the six break lines go into and there was no fluid in it at all. Filled it up and still have the same problem and the same error code. Kinda stumped at the moment.

Is there anyway I can check the caliper before replacing a more expensive part?

 

Sounds like two issues.

If the rear caliper is sticking (would not be caused by the ABS), it will need to be replaced. Spin the wheel, apply the brakes, spin again. I bet you will see/feel the difference between the two sides. Also be sure the e-brake cable/arm is retracting all the way.

Since you have now filled the ABS res, you might look into bleeding the ABS.....see if this helps. EDIT: of course the next thing is "where did the fluid go"......brake fluid usually does not just vanish

 

Definitely need to bleed brakes very very well. Do not let brake fluid run out or get too low while you're bleeding them or they will get air in them and you'll have to start all over. Im not saying this will fix anything but it will def. not hurt anything.. Also, could be a sensor of some sort?

 

Thank you. Yes I noticed that when I lifted the rear driver side I could even spin the wheel at all. I know the master cylinder was bad for sure , which I'm assuming is why the abs resourvior was empty.

And that another thing I notice when I was doing some testing. Just in the drive way I would put it in drive and it would move with no gas applied. Hit the brakes then it would start rolling when I released the brakes. Put it back in pack then into drive and same thing no movement until I pressed the brake pedal down. So it's looking like the caliper itself then correct ? Thanks for your help.

 

Your first part, yes the caliper is sticking. Again just want to be sure the e-brake cable is releasing....but I'm leaning more towards the caliper.....I can't see it, so my base is your description. If you are brave, a junk yard caliper might cost less than a re-man????

Just so you know, the reg brake system (brake master) and the ABS do not "share" a lot. So just because the master is/was bad and or leaking would not explain the ABS res being low or out of fluid. So with that being said, please read the attachment I posted. If you are up to doing that procedure then start there. Once that is done, well things could be fine or you might find that there are other issues with the ABS.....an o-ring for ~$2 or something more.

 

Yeah checked e-brake cable , it was fine. Went and bought a mityvac to bleed the ABS but it wouldnt hold pressure. Fitting was fine on the mityvac going to the little plastic fill hole no leak there. Pumped up a few times and pressure drop quickly. Tried and tried to keep giving it a little pressure hoping i could find a visible leak somewhere but I saw notihng. Dont know where to start now.

Going to pick up a caliper tomorrow at the local junk yard. Not the best option but for 5 bucks I cant complain.

Edit: Also checked the fuses inside and under the hood, all were good. Tried to check the ABS relay under the hood to see if it was any good. Not sure how to check it but I used the battery and alligator clips to hook up to the two silver contacts on the relay and it clicked. Also jumper-ed where the relay goes to see if the pump came on and it did.

 

Also check the Master Brake Cylinder.

 

Master brake cylinder was replaced and tested already.

 

Could someone give me a link to where this o-ring is that I can check and replace of needed?