SOHC noobie..few boost questions
Ok well I'm not a newbie to turbos and hondas but I know more about DOHC then I do about SOHC...
I have a +500whp toy, but that's all it is, a toy... Not something you drive all the time..more like a track only kind of thing... So I want to put together a fun to drive DD.. I just picked up a 4door eg with a lil d15.. all I was going to do was turbo, injecters, fuel pump, head studs,hondata and a clutch.. I don't really want to do pistons and rods.. Just stock d15b7 with boost... So what I want to know is, just how far can I safely push this motor with a really good tune
I have a +500whp toy, but that's all it is, a toy... Not something you drive all the time..more like a track only kind of thing... So I want to put together a fun to drive DD.. I just picked up a 4door eg with a lil d15.. all I was going to do was turbo, injecters, fuel pump, head studs,hondata and a clutch.. I don't really want to do pistons and rods.. Just stock d15b7 with boost... So what I want to know is, just how far can I safely push this motor with a really good tune
1st- A good tune is a must in any build
2nd- low boost it (max 10psi) and thats pushing it
3rd- oem headstuds (this way youll blow headgasket, before you blow engine)
2nd- low boost it (max 10psi) and thats pushing it
3rd- oem headstuds (this way youll blow headgasket, before you blow engine)
As far as oem headstuds, thats kind of a no-no. Since the SOHC heads have a smaller surface area than B series engines, you WILL get head lift with the stock bolts.
In my opinion the OP is on the right path. Heres my opinion on what he should go with:
1. Turbo - T25 or similarly sized turbo
2. Injectors - DSM 450cc/min (with resistor box since they are low impedance)
3. Fuel Pump - In tank Walbro 255lph
4. Headstuds - ARP
5. Hondata - YES
(crome is decent and free if you want to stay cheap, ive also heard awesome things about neptune)Also you might want to change the head gasket while youre in there. Just a thought, if you go with some vitara pistons (theyre really cheap) and some shot peened rods for more power. You can only make around 200-220whp reliably on these stock motors.
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I have tuned single cams that make 320 with just headstuds... There are alot of clowns on this site that will tell you some bs that they read on another thread, they havent done anytjing for themselves.
Also dobt take advise from people with 2010 or newer join dates... This is why this site makes me angry a bunch of e racers racing from forun to forum spreading disinformation.
I dont think this is a fair blanket statement to make. Although I am learning every day I have been working on civics for a number of years now and never got around to registering. Join date/post count is irrelevant to knowledge.
everyone knows stock d series rods are toothpicks... for you to say youve made more than 300 mark, is STr8 bull and you know it..
haha, i didnt know my join date had anything to do on how well i can build a motor!!! lol...
I mean its been done before (I think evans tuning has some builds making 300+hp with just head studs added to the longblock) but for a dd I have serious reservations about the reliability of a setup as extreme as that.
those guys have blown those d motors after a few pulls... look it up... doesnt really count if you ask me... dont get me wrong they know how to tune, which is what really counts
Says the guys suggesting t25s and stock head studs... 300 is not an unreliable number i tune multiple cars every week different engines, turbos, ecus etc etc... learn and read all you want but dont give shitty advise when you have not done things on your own... Just because some jerk off who thinks he can tune threw a rod at 300 hp doesnt mean thats going to happen to everyone there are a list of things that could have caused a rod failure. We have made 20 psi on stock d series... They arent strong by any means but they arent "tooth picks" either. It depends on a number of things to determine how much power is safe.
Says the guys suggesting t25s and stock head studs... 300 is not an unreliable number i tune multiple cars every week different engines, turbos, ecus etc etc... learn and read all you want but dont give shitty advise when you have not done things on your own... Just because some jerk off who thinks he can tune threw a rod at 300 hp doesnt mean thats going to happen to everyone there are a list of things that could have caused a rod failure. We have made 20 psi on stock d series... They arent strong by any means but they arent "tooth picks" either. It depends on a number of things to determine how much power is safe.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/honda-techs-highest-horsepower-stock-block-thread-%2Aofficial%2A-2036623/ as per this thread here are a few people that have pushed the stock D series blocks. Feel free to message them for more information because from what I have seen so far in this thread, nobody has posted up personal information concerning builds and DD reliability which is what the originally thread starter asked about. Ironically I haven't built a D series engine myself but here are a few people who have. Good luck.
D series:
1. Jeff Evans tuned D16z6, 308whp/262tq, neptune, GT28RS
2.Autoworks-305whp/211tq 114oct
3.BoostedED9 D16Z6 302whp 251wtq
4. LurkerS8 300whp 237tq
5. nerdsports Y7block/Z6head 273whp/224tq, 93 octane, 12.17@110mph
6. turbodstd 266 whp 220tq, 93 octane
7. KzaamY8-D16Y8- 265whp 210wtq @ 9.5psi, T3/T4 .63
8. King-Kong D16z6 @ 264p/240ft.tq @ 13 psi sc50
9. ladysman 262whp on 12.5 psi stock Z6
10. wilham320 d16y8 w/ greddy kit at 15psi - 252whp pump gas
D series:
1. Jeff Evans tuned D16z6, 308whp/262tq, neptune, GT28RS
2.Autoworks-305whp/211tq 114oct
3.BoostedED9 D16Z6 302whp 251wtq
4. LurkerS8 300whp 237tq
5. nerdsports Y7block/Z6head 273whp/224tq, 93 octane, 12.17@110mph
6. turbodstd 266 whp 220tq, 93 octane
7. KzaamY8-D16Y8- 265whp 210wtq @ 9.5psi, T3/T4 .63
8. King-Kong D16z6 @ 264p/240ft.tq @ 13 psi sc50
9. ladysman 262whp on 12.5 psi stock Z6
10. wilham320 d16y8 w/ greddy kit at 15psi - 252whp pump gas
i will vouch for tron (member of dso since jul 09)...he did the leg work and the reasearch and has a very well put together d-series set-up...one that most would be jelous of, dont hate cuz he is new here....hell i was a learker for a few years before i joined up here
i have had several d-series....one d15b7 included running 16psi out of a gt1752 on rc310 injectors, 3bar, arp headstuds and thats it.....i popped that motor during the first winter of its life at -0vac/1 psi in fifth gear.....but it was still good for 13's at just over 100mph
secondly there is a huge difference between usdm d15 and a d16 .....the d16's will hold 250 reliably on a really good tune....and can run more but its just not reliable.....at 220whp you could drive for several years......a d15 will start spitting rods north of 220whp...
op...coming from someone who has had several d15 set-ups.....200whp is alot of fun on a smaller turbo.....nothing like my hx35 set-up, 2 different beasts all together
i have had several d-series....one d15b7 included running 16psi out of a gt1752 on rc310 injectors, 3bar, arp headstuds and thats it.....i popped that motor during the first winter of its life at -0vac/1 psi in fifth gear.....but it was still good for 13's at just over 100mph
secondly there is a huge difference between usdm d15 and a d16 .....the d16's will hold 250 reliably on a really good tune....and can run more but its just not reliable.....at 220whp you could drive for several years......a d15 will start spitting rods north of 220whp...
op...coming from someone who has had several d15 set-ups.....200whp is alot of fun on a smaller turbo.....nothing like my hx35 set-up, 2 different beasts all together

usdm d15 on left jdm d15 on the right(very similer in size to the d16)
you can clearly see the jdm d15/usdm d16 not only has bigger bearings it has thicker more hefty rods



