any painters wanna lend some knowledge?
ok so my friend knows how to bondo a few small dents to keep my bodywork cost down when i go for paint next month. the paint shop told me however that i shouldnt do any of the bodywork myself because water will sit inside the primer or bondo and pake the paint bubble there over time. my question is ,dont they make waterproof primer or something i could spray over the bondo to where water wouldnt effect the bondo? even if its just spray can clear coat over bondo and primer wouldnt that help? i was quoted 400 bucks for 3 dents and i wanna fix two of them.
This isn't the correct section, if you want prompt answers ask here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=84
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=84
I would suggest not bringing the car outside till the day you drive it to shop. Prep the area really good using wax removers and such. Then primer don't use clear coat until its painted they will have to do some sanding at the shop regardless but the less prep they do the less it cost as long as you do it correctly
This isn't the correct section, if you want prompt answers ask here:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=84
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=84
if they have to sand a little more i doubt they would charge alot more. basicallt im trying to stay closer to 750 and far away from the 1100 i was quoted
OK. So your body shop is giving you a "half-truth" here.
When I had my shop, I typicaly would discourage people from doing their own prep work, just because when painting a car, the prep is about 90% of the final product. If the prep is bad, the best painter in the world can't make it look good. With that said...
First, any shop worth a damn will not guarantee the results if you do your own prep, so expect that, and if the final product is flawed, don't complain.
Second, there is primer, and there is sealer. The final coat before paint should always be a sealer. A good sealer "can" be exposed to weather...but for best results, it shouldn't. Telling you it will absorb moisture and cause the pait not to adhere is not the case though. What it will do is get grease, oil, road grime, bugs....you get the picture....all of which will cause problems in the final paint.
My suggestion...assuming you can't or don't want to have the prep done by the paint shop...is to do all your filler work and coat that with a primer. After all your bodywork is complete, feel free to drive the car. Just before you are ready for paint, sand the entire car down and seal it with a good sealer, then deliver it to the shop covered. (do NOT drive it to the shop). If that is not an option, then I would suggest letting the shop apply the final sealer before paint.
One last tip...if you sand down to bare metal during your bodywork, be sure you use an etching primer, as normal primer does not adhere to bare metal very well.
When I had my shop, I typicaly would discourage people from doing their own prep work, just because when painting a car, the prep is about 90% of the final product. If the prep is bad, the best painter in the world can't make it look good. With that said...
First, any shop worth a damn will not guarantee the results if you do your own prep, so expect that, and if the final product is flawed, don't complain.
Second, there is primer, and there is sealer. The final coat before paint should always be a sealer. A good sealer "can" be exposed to weather...but for best results, it shouldn't. Telling you it will absorb moisture and cause the pait not to adhere is not the case though. What it will do is get grease, oil, road grime, bugs....you get the picture....all of which will cause problems in the final paint.
My suggestion...assuming you can't or don't want to have the prep done by the paint shop...is to do all your filler work and coat that with a primer. After all your bodywork is complete, feel free to drive the car. Just before you are ready for paint, sand the entire car down and seal it with a good sealer, then deliver it to the shop covered. (do NOT drive it to the shop). If that is not an option, then I would suggest letting the shop apply the final sealer before paint.
One last tip...if you sand down to bare metal during your bodywork, be sure you use an etching primer, as normal primer does not adhere to bare metal very well.
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OK. So your body shop is giving you a "half-truth" here.
When I had my shop, I typicaly would discourage people from doing their own prep work, just because when painting a car, the prep is about 90% of the final product. If the prep is bad, the best painter in the world can't make it look good. With that said...
First, any shop worth a damn will not guarantee the results if you do your own prep, so expect that, and if the final product is flawed, don't complain.
Second, there is primer, and there is sealer. The final coat before paint should always be a sealer. A good sealer "can" be exposed to weather...but for best results, it shouldn't. Telling you it will absorb moisture and cause the pait not to adhere is not the case though. What it will do is get grease, oil, road grime, bugs....you get the picture....all of which will cause problems in the final paint.
My suggestion...assuming you can't or don't want to have the prep done by the paint shop...is to do all your filler work and coat that with a primer. After all your bodywork is complete, feel free to drive the car. Just before you are ready for paint, sand the entire car down and seal it with a good sealer, then deliver it to the shop covered. (do NOT drive it to the shop). If that is not an option, then I would suggest letting the shop apply the final sealer before paint.
One last tip...if you sand down to bare metal during your bodywork, be sure you use an etching primer, as normal primer does not adhere to bare metal very well.
When I had my shop, I typicaly would discourage people from doing their own prep work, just because when painting a car, the prep is about 90% of the final product. If the prep is bad, the best painter in the world can't make it look good. With that said...
First, any shop worth a damn will not guarantee the results if you do your own prep, so expect that, and if the final product is flawed, don't complain.
Second, there is primer, and there is sealer. The final coat before paint should always be a sealer. A good sealer "can" be exposed to weather...but for best results, it shouldn't. Telling you it will absorb moisture and cause the pait not to adhere is not the case though. What it will do is get grease, oil, road grime, bugs....you get the picture....all of which will cause problems in the final paint.
My suggestion...assuming you can't or don't want to have the prep done by the paint shop...is to do all your filler work and coat that with a primer. After all your bodywork is complete, feel free to drive the car. Just before you are ready for paint, sand the entire car down and seal it with a good sealer, then deliver it to the shop covered. (do NOT drive it to the shop). If that is not an option, then I would suggest letting the shop apply the final sealer before paint.
One last tip...if you sand down to bare metal during your bodywork, be sure you use an etching primer, as normal primer does not adhere to bare metal very well.
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