What to look for when buying 96 EX
I am going to look at a 1996 Honda Ex Sedan this weekend. I looks super clean in and out and I am told it has a clean title. It is an manual trans. with 219k miles. What are the key things to look for when test driving and inspecting this car? How do I do it?
Thanks for your detailed reply.
Thanks for your detailed reply.
Last edited by BPF317; Jan 12, 2012 at 01:37 PM. Reason: Mis spelling
How it runs after a good drive. Not just around the block or on a nice stretch of road, but around town in various conditions. If the drive leaves you uneasy about the engine, ask seller if you can have a mechanic check it out -- a compression test is what you ideally want.
Sunroof opens and closes properly and makes a waterproof seal?
Clutch -original? If so, plan on it going soon unless it truly has been babied.
Tires- tread life left? Buying 4 good new tires is a hefty out-of-pocket.
Suspension- shocks, struts ever done? On test drive pay attention to any clankyness on front end. Could indicate labor-intensive work needed (Control Arms, etc.)
Timing belt last replaced, when, mileage?
Brake/rotor wear status (if it has pressed on rotors, replacement job is not easy or cheap if a shop does it).
Whether the "clean title" managed to skirt a flood or serious collision. I'm leery of sellers who keep stressing "clean title." Let the car determine if it's clean. Look at the undercarriage. Look under the hood for signs that car has been painted. Inside door jambs. Remove floormats (especially if they are new cheap replacements) and inspect carpet underneath for any sign of water damage.
Maintenance records. A person who has owned a car with care will also produce those records proudly.
Ultimately, if it's a good car in good condition, the thing to pay attention to is PRICE. The mileage on the car is high.
Sunroof opens and closes properly and makes a waterproof seal?
Clutch -original? If so, plan on it going soon unless it truly has been babied.
Tires- tread life left? Buying 4 good new tires is a hefty out-of-pocket.
Suspension- shocks, struts ever done? On test drive pay attention to any clankyness on front end. Could indicate labor-intensive work needed (Control Arms, etc.)
Timing belt last replaced, when, mileage?
Brake/rotor wear status (if it has pressed on rotors, replacement job is not easy or cheap if a shop does it).
Whether the "clean title" managed to skirt a flood or serious collision. I'm leery of sellers who keep stressing "clean title." Let the car determine if it's clean. Look at the undercarriage. Look under the hood for signs that car has been painted. Inside door jambs. Remove floormats (especially if they are new cheap replacements) and inspect carpet underneath for any sign of water damage.
Maintenance records. A person who has owned a car with care will also produce those records proudly.
Ultimately, if it's a good car in good condition, the thing to pay attention to is PRICE. The mileage on the car is high.
I just bought a 96 EX sedan, 232K, automatic. It had seven CEL codes, SRS light lit, ABS lite lit, no windsheild wipers, two bent rims, speedometer did not work,alt. not charging, broken tail light. It did have a full tune up, good tires and great sound system and ac, for 1200. Fixed it all but the bent rims for less than 300.....hopefully , a perfect beater work car for several more miles.....
How it runs after a good drive. Not just around the block or on a nice stretch of road, but around town in various conditions. If the drive leaves you uneasy about the engine, ask seller if you can have a mechanic check it out -- a compression test is what you ideally want.
Sunroof opens and closes properly and makes a waterproof seal?
Clutch -original? If so, plan on it going soon unless it truly has been babied.
Tires- tread life left? Buying 4 good new tires is a hefty out-of-pocket.
Suspension- shocks, struts ever done? On test drive pay attention to any clankyness on front end. Could indicate labor-intensive work needed (Control Arms, etc.)
Timing belt last replaced, when, mileage?
Brake/rotor wear status (if it has pressed on rotors, replacement job is not easy or cheap if a shop does it).
Whether the "clean title" managed to skirt a flood or serious collision. I'm leery of sellers who keep stressing "clean title." Let the car determine if it's clean. Look at the undercarriage. Look under the hood for signs that car has been painted. Inside door jambs. Remove floormats (especially if they are new cheap replacements) and inspect carpet underneath for any sign of water damage.
Maintenance records. A person who has owned a car with care will also produce those records proudly.
Ultimately, if it's a good car in good condition, the thing to pay attention to is PRICE. The mileage on the car is high.
Sunroof opens and closes properly and makes a waterproof seal?
Clutch -original? If so, plan on it going soon unless it truly has been babied.
Tires- tread life left? Buying 4 good new tires is a hefty out-of-pocket.
Suspension- shocks, struts ever done? On test drive pay attention to any clankyness on front end. Could indicate labor-intensive work needed (Control Arms, etc.)
Timing belt last replaced, when, mileage?
Brake/rotor wear status (if it has pressed on rotors, replacement job is not easy or cheap if a shop does it).
Whether the "clean title" managed to skirt a flood or serious collision. I'm leery of sellers who keep stressing "clean title." Let the car determine if it's clean. Look at the undercarriage. Look under the hood for signs that car has been painted. Inside door jambs. Remove floormats (especially if they are new cheap replacements) and inspect carpet underneath for any sign of water damage.
Maintenance records. A person who has owned a car with care will also produce those records proudly.
Ultimately, if it's a good car in good condition, the thing to pay attention to is PRICE. The mileage on the car is high.
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