Prelude swap issues
Heys guys,
Just finished up dropping in a F22b1 into my brothers 92 Prelude Si orginally equipped with the H23.
Here is the issue:
Everything is dropped in ready to go minus the F series throttle cable. All fluids are in and there are no leaks. Hooked up all the wiring. Put the battery in and all the lights and horn etc all work. Turn the key and there nothing... not even a click.
Here are a few thing s I observed that may be the problem:
May not have all the grounds in the right spot. Can someone list out where all the grounds go? I cannot for the life of me find out where they all go... one of the perks of not being the only one tearing apart the car... i need to know where the stock location of the negative battery cable connects as well.
Inside the car the shift selector in red shows it is in Park but there is a green light flashing where "drive" is indicated. The tranny cable could be not adjusted correctly to pull the tranny physically into park... how do i know i have the tranny cable adjusted correctly? Can i get under the car, physically place the selector into park and adjust accordingly?
Also when i turn the key in the fans automatically come on and wont go off when it is turned off with the key out.
I used the F22B1 wiring harness obd1 version and only two plugs matched up with the ones coming out of the fire wall... luckily the only two coming out if the fire wall are those plugged up.
Just need a littke bit of help on the home stretch to get this car running for my brother to get back and forth to college and work.
Additional info: using the f22b1 ecu and the h23 tranny. Brand new distributor as well
Thanks guys
Austin Webb
Just finished up dropping in a F22b1 into my brothers 92 Prelude Si orginally equipped with the H23.
Here is the issue:
Everything is dropped in ready to go minus the F series throttle cable. All fluids are in and there are no leaks. Hooked up all the wiring. Put the battery in and all the lights and horn etc all work. Turn the key and there nothing... not even a click.
Here are a few thing s I observed that may be the problem:
May not have all the grounds in the right spot. Can someone list out where all the grounds go? I cannot for the life of me find out where they all go... one of the perks of not being the only one tearing apart the car... i need to know where the stock location of the negative battery cable connects as well.
Inside the car the shift selector in red shows it is in Park but there is a green light flashing where "drive" is indicated. The tranny cable could be not adjusted correctly to pull the tranny physically into park... how do i know i have the tranny cable adjusted correctly? Can i get under the car, physically place the selector into park and adjust accordingly?
Also when i turn the key in the fans automatically come on and wont go off when it is turned off with the key out.
I used the F22B1 wiring harness obd1 version and only two plugs matched up with the ones coming out of the fire wall... luckily the only two coming out if the fire wall are those plugged up.
Just need a littke bit of help on the home stretch to get this car running for my brother to get back and forth to college and work.
Additional info: using the f22b1 ecu and the h23 tranny. Brand new distributor as well
Thanks guys
Austin Webb
You should of left the h23 wiring harness on it would of been easier they have the same wiring length but one diff plug which could very well be your problem. You need to understand that the obd1 accord/preludes harness wires without changing will plug up to any h22/f22/f23 motor they are the same the only thing is that you have to add the vtec wires in to the non vtec harness.
If you're getting power to the dash when you turn the key on, the battery cables should be hooked up correctly.
The car will turn over without an ECU, so the ECU shouldn't be an issue. It won't start, but the starter will turn.
The starter should be using the block as a ground, so the block to chassis grounds will need to be checked. I think there's one from the timing side to the strut tower and then the one on the harness at the thermostat. I'm trying to remember if there is one on the tranny side as well or not. I haven't seen a stock wired H22 or Prelude in a long time so my memory is a bit foggy.
The car will turn over without an ECU, so the ECU shouldn't be an issue. It won't start, but the starter will turn.
The starter should be using the block as a ground, so the block to chassis grounds will need to be checked. I think there's one from the timing side to the strut tower and then the one on the harness at the thermostat. I'm trying to remember if there is one on the tranny side as well or not. I haven't seen a stock wired H22 or Prelude in a long time so my memory is a bit foggy.
I am almost positive it is in the grounding of the components. I checked the shift linkage again and it appears to be correct. I am not the only one that helped pull the stuuf off and pull the motor out, yet I am the only one putting everything back together... go figure.
I am still unsure where the opposite end of the negative battery cable mounts. I would imagine that it mounts to the frame but i want to make sure and I cant find it anywhere in the hanes or chilton manual.
I need to get this thing done tonight so I can test everything and make sure it is good to go so my brother can come get it...and because I have 4 more cars waiting to be fixed and sold.
Thanks,
Austin Webb
I am still unsure where the opposite end of the negative battery cable mounts. I would imagine that it mounts to the frame but i want to make sure and I cant find it anywhere in the hanes or chilton manual.
I need to get this thing done tonight so I can test everything and make sure it is good to go so my brother can come get it...and because I have 4 more cars waiting to be fixed and sold.
Thanks,
Austin Webb
Here is an update on the issues! I swapped back to the h23 harness and the H23 ecu and I get everything! One problem, there was no spark and i dug around and noticed that the H23 is suppose to have an external coil. Well the F22B has an internal coil in the distributor.... so I am at a stand still again. So here is what I did i took off the F22b distributor and slid in the H23 distributor and plugged in the h23 coil. The bolt holes dont match up so I had a friend hold it in place and I turned it over and it fired up!!
So my dilemma is... What do I do for a distributor!? Can I use a different F distributor that is non vtec and re clock it or do I try and modify the harness?
HELP!!! lol
So my dilemma is... What do I do for a distributor!? Can I use a different F distributor that is non vtec and re clock it or do I try and modify the harness?
HELP!!! lol
You can use the h23 distributor and take a blaster coil and splice the wires to + and - forgot the colors but you can tell which ones when you take the coil off the f22b dizzy.
Trending Topics
Oh my bad its a f22b1 yeah you can use a f22a1 dizzy just use the same firing order as that dizzy they have different firing orders. f22b1 dizzy has a different firing order as the f22a1 dizzy.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




