SO i just did a valve adjustment in this order 1 3 4 2 Exhaust .008 intake .005

i checked all the clearneces each time before turning the motor to the next valve and they were all pretty tight i could get my feeler gauge in there and out with it having a lot of resistance.. i tightened everything down now this happens..



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6PbVW36EDk


im assuming i over tightened the valves or something because it has not done this prior to the adjustment

sorry cellphone camera

 

What method did you use to line up the cams before checking?

If you followed the factory method, you've probably got at least one clearance that's too big. There is a better way...

 

Set the motor to TDC

than turn counter clockwise 90 degrees

do that again till the last cylinder

 

Too iffy.

Try this:
Turn engine so one cylinder's intake lobes and one cylinder's exhaust lobes are pointing straight up to the sky. Check those four and adjust as required.
Turn engine so another pair of cylinder's lobes are pointing straight up. Repeat two more times.

The point is to check the valves that have their lobes pointing directly up to the sky, which will happen every 90-degrees of rotation.

Effectively, you're turning the engine about as much as you are for the factory method, but with this method you're guaranteed to have all the valves OFF the heels of their lobes, which is what you need to do to make sure you're not inadvertently setting excessive clearances.

 

sweet bro thank you so much i actually saw this posted somewhere not a while back but didnt pay attention so just to make sure before i do this

lets say i do this will cylinder 1 have all cam lobes up or will it be 1 will have 2 and 4 will have 2 up

 

u guys confuse the **** out of me, im scared to try this now

 

Another tip: Use a GO/NO-GO system.

As a hypothetical example, suppose your specified clearance is
.008. (of course it will actually be a range, not an absolute figure)

When checking the clearance for that valve, you use
.009 as the NO-GO,
and
.007 as the GO.

You therefore have three leaves of your feelers fanned out for ready access: .007, .008, and .009. (These numbers are not typical of feeler gauges, I'm just using these figures to keep it simple.)

You check the clearance using the .009. The feeler should NOT GO. If it goes, the clearance is too loose.

You check the clearance with the .007. The feeler SHOULD GO. If it won't go, the clearance is too tight.

If .007 GOES and .009 does NOT GO, then you're close enough to spec, and can move to the next valve.

If you find a valve out-of-spec, that's when the .008 comes into play: After setting the clearance using the .008, and torquing the nut to 18 ft lbs, you double-check using the GO/NO-GO feelers.

And so on. This method also saves you the worry of wondering whether you had the right "drag" on the feeler when you set the clearances.

 

I can't remember right now.

But it's simple. Really.

Just turn the engine while watching the cams, and you'll easily see which ones are coming up and which aren't.

Honestly, once you watch the cam lobes turn, it will be blindingly obvious.

 

i will try this tomorrow thanks

 

It reads a lot more complicated than it really is. If you know the right technique, it's a piece of cake.

 

I just had a look at my feeler gauge set, and I do indeed have a feeler for each .001 below .010. So I do have a .007, .008, and .009. Plus a .006, .005, and .004, etc.

It's one of those things you get so used to looking at that you don't really notice anymore, you know? So I had to double-check.

 

There's no reason that the official procedure won't work, as there is plenty of duration at zero lift and a lot of room for error. I've done both a B20 and B18C1 multiple times using the standard procedure and I get very good adjustments. For some reason B18 non-vtec heads seem to be fussy. Did you do it cold, and make sure that the adjuster screws didn't move after you tightened the nuts? It's important to verify the adjustment after you tighten everything down.

 

Recheck your clearances, if they are in spec, take the valve cover off, start the engine, find the tickers, and slowly tighten till the ticking stops.

 

not to sound dumb, but u can start ur car without the valve cover on ?????

 

yea, the cams will throw a little oil around, but not alot. BMW is a different story, they have a really hard time running with even th oil cap off, PCV has a big role in vacuum with bimmers.

 

i checked after i adjusted but i didnt know how much drag i should have some i had more or less than others but ill try what he said the go/nogo tachnique

when i did it on my civic y7 and my H22A i had no problem with it ill redo it tomorrow

 

If you could get the feeler in, it's over 0.008 and you're just too loose. Sounds like the go/no go technique will fix it.

 

alright thanks guys i hope this feels the knocking i know its not a rod because it was fine before

 

alright thanks guys i fixed the problem i did the go no go procedure i did it the way TheRealTegger said. I had 2 exhaust 2 intake valves pointing straight up and used a .004 and a .006 to measure the intake .004 went in .006 didn't i knew it was good same with exhaust but i used .007 and .009. Just to make sure I did what DirtyDA9 said to do i started the car with no valvecover and it sounded great no knocking or ticking runs great.

Thanks guys

 

watch this :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-G_Nq2orpfo

exact same engine being performed on. i believe..THEREALTEGGER is referring to this method. pay attention starting at 3:00 to 3:25

loose better than tight..you dont want a burned valve

 

i already did it.. like i said its fixed

 

I love the smell of success!

How many did you find with excessive clearance?

 

lol to my surprise i found one that WAS up to spec... im gonna do it this way now on all the b-series i will own

I thought i did it the right way the way i was doing it the cam lobes were facing towards the front of the car not the roof...

but what i did was the go/no go put the .004 it went put the .006 didn't go locked the valve nut and done was done with it in 30 minutes with all of them vs 1 hr and got it wrong

once again thanks