hey everyone im new to honda-tech.com!

ive recently started my ls/vtec project (jdmb16a head b18a1 bottom)
i have a couple of questions about it! i have a b20 crank and on the pulley there are no TDC marks, what should i do to get it to TDC? the head is already off! here is a list of what i need to know:

1. how to do TDC without marks on pulley
2. how to install camshafts and how to check valve clearance
3. what is the max rev limit i can go to with my b18a1 block (b20 crank, p30 pistons shootpened onto ls rods) girdle is unknown if installed or not!
4. how to put cam gears onto camshafts correctly
5. torque specs for head

im sure im forgetting other stuff i need to know, but this is all i can remember for now! any info would be great to have! btw this is my first honda rebuild and im loveing every second of it!!!!!

 

anyone??

 

This write up will help you with your build:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

As for your original questions of no TDC marks on the crank pulley hopefully someone else can chime in on that.

 

**update**
ls/vtec almost complete!
-replaced valves (blox racing flat valves high compression)
-supertech dual valve springs
-titanium retainers
-valve seals (blox)
-skunk2 stage 2 pro series camshafts
-cometic head gasket 81mm
-ls/vtec conversion sandwhich plate and oil line tapped to head
leak test done and compression checked (190 across all four cylinders)

im still looking for some answers to most of my questions! thank you! will post pictures and more info further i go into the project! almost forgot, engine being dropped into 93 eg coupe!

 

1. when u take the crank pulley off the timing gear where the timing belt will have a notch on it that will line up with an arrow or mark on the oil pump?
2. buy a helms manual and follow the instructions
3. 7000
4. trolling
5. again repeat number 2

 

thank you! that helps out alot!

 

bump

 

also another question! i have hasport motor and tranny mounts that connctes from my b16a2 engine! will i be able to use these mounts with my ls/vtec and it will just bolt up correctly to my car body and to the engine without any modifications?

thank you!

 

It sounds like you're saying you have the mounts in you car already? If so it should mount right up depending on what tranny you're using. If you're using the trans of the b16 you have the mounts for you should be golden.

 

yes i am using the b16a2 tranny! and good, i like hearing those golden words! i would be seriously mad if i had to order custom motor mounts!

 

To set TDC for your block, put a long screwdriver done the spark plug hole of cylinder 1. Turn the crank till you visually see the screwdriver at TDC. Because the piston hits TDC twice in one revolution, make sure to time the cams correctly.

 

what if i have the head already off of the block? will it be easier to tell if im at TDC? and how exactly do u time cams correctly?

 

TDC simply means that the piston is at the highest point of travel. When TDC is used for setting timing belt, it refers to the piston in cylinder 1 at highest point of travel. With no head on the block, you can visually see the piston at TDC but why are you interested in TDC if your not setting timing?
To time cams, I don't know any little tricks, you have to use the markings on the cams. I can't remember how the markings should be faced since it's been at least 2 years since I've timed a b series.
The theory behind "timing" an engine is you want cylinder 1 (at least for most cars) to be at the end of stroke 2 and at the beginning of stroke 3 which means the piston is at TDC and all valves close.

 

get a helms manual or google setting timing on b16 head( they have little holes above the cam u can stick a allen wrench or bolt to lock the cams in tdc... its acually easier then a d series to time the cams.) and im sure u can find a good write up.

 

Don't use the D16z6 cam timing, it's not the same as the b series.

 

well when i removed the head from the block, the cams and cam gears were at TDC but the block wasnt at all! so i would imagine i could do tdc to the block then put the head back on at tdc, if i can even do that! its all confusing to explain from my point of view but im trying to explain it the best i can (regarding ive never done tdc myself and this is my first honda build on my own!)

 

It's best to set your TDC when your ready to do the belt, you'll see that it's tricky to fit the belt onto the gear so you'll have to rotate the gear forward or backwards a little. This is where you'll want to keep that screwdriver in the cylinder so you can see if the piston moved down or not. For me, I typically like to move it back a little so when I get it on and rotate the whole engine, the slack in the front portion of the belt makes up for the slight backwards movement I did. It's hard to read all this and take in all the info, it take me a few times before I got a good feel for it. My first engine I ever timed was 1 tooth off but it was a stock honda engine which is very forgiving.

 

ohhh alright i get what you are saying! yeah its hard to take it in, i wish it was easier to do but its a honda and they have to make everything confusing! im just worried about actually trying your method of doing timing and i do it then crank my engine over and i hear an awful noise! id would be deeply depressed! but im going to set back my timing a little bit for when i put my timing belt on! but if anything im takeing it to a shop to get swapped into my car so im sure they can figure it out!

 

remember you need to degree those cams in.

 

yeah i have AEM tuner cam gears

 

how can i tell what CC injectors i have? and i want to know how much hp my stock fuel injectors can hold to if i ever find out what injectors i have!
i have also heard that DSM fuel injectors work also! is this true?

 

DSM injectors work, you just need the injectors and pigtails. If you're using stock injectors, I'm sure Google can tell you how much they flow. I've heard (emphasis on heard, not sure how true it is) that 90% of your flow rate is roughly how much CHP injectors can handle, but someone with more tuning knowledge will probably correct me on that. Also, you can't just swap the injectors and expect the car to still run right - the pulse sent to control the injectors doesn't pay attention to how much is being flowed, simply how long the injector is spraying. Throwing 480s in a car that originally had 120s will flood the **** out of the motor.

 

well my plan is to get maybe 310 rc injectors and send in my ecu for tuning so that my ecu can run the 310 without flooding the hell out of my motor! they will be saturated injectors also! yeah im still kind of newbish of the injector parts! but if i did get 480cc dsm injectors would it be ideal to get my car tunes first then after the tune i can run the injectors?

 

You can't do one and not the other. Short of getting your car towed to the tuner (they don't like that) your best option would be to make up your mind on the injectors, get all the hardware you need to install them, make sure you have all the hardware, double check a third time, then call up xenocron and have them cut you a basemap, or send you a chipped ECU. Install it all together, then take a drive to your local tuner.

 

310cc is what im gonna go with.. im also sending in my ecu to phearable.net! but you are saying even though i get the tunes for my engine set up with the injectors i would still need to take my car in to a tuning shop? correct?