Power, axle, clutch and other questions about 90CRX SI with a built/turbo D16a6
Whats up honda-tech. As you guys can see I have been on hondatech here for a bit to post about turbo stuff, but now I finally have a little honda of my own.


Anyway, I got a pretty stellar deal on this thing.. I picked it up for $1000 with my race trailer (I have a few turbo drag cars). Here is a list of the crap that is currently on it, if anyone wants to offer any type of "get that %&%# off there" advice on it.
The plan is to trap 120mph with this thing.. I have E85 available everywhere up here, and I always have some C16 / E98 laying around for the race cars... so I dont see it being a huge issue to get the power out of this. I already put a 300lph pump in the tank, and it seems to work ok with the FPR it has.
questions
1. What sort of power can this motor make on race gas without turning into a puddle of parts? (I have a bunch of turbos on the shelf, a T3 housing s256ETT is one of them) How will the trans hold up? I hear the B series trans works better and is a moderately easy upgrade?
2. I have a chipped PM6 OBD0 ECU right now (barely drivable at the moment), I imagine that it is going to be fairly limited, but the kid did include a S200 box and a obd0-obd1 conversion harness. Stick to the PM6 or upgrade to something else? I run AEM's / motec in all of my race stuff, and I hear that the new ricer EMS AEM is not a complete pile of fail and would allow me to upgrade the ignition? suggestions appreciated, I make a living tuning domestics, so I have a good idea as to what I am doing with any option here.
3. Autozone axles / "stock clutch". Are these huge limiting factors? I imagine the stock clutch will get mad very soon, but I could be wrong?
4. the sparkplug boots are soaked in oil (specifically 3 and 4), simple gasket fix or bigger deal?
5. stuff you may comment on:
....yes I know the wastegate setup blows, I am installing a syncronic in a much better location before it moves.
....Yes ebay turbos suck, but I like them and this one looks like a winner so far
-D16A6
-75.5 Vitaras
-Forged custom length I beams
-Acl race bearing
-All new gasket kit
-450 blue top injectors
-B&M adjustable pressure regulator
-Freshly rebuilt A6 head
-AEM cam gear
-Lighted flywheel
-Stock clutch
-Stock 5 speed cable trans.
-Eg halfsize radiator
Forced induction
-Ebay 57 trim T3/T04e (Currently running 10 pounds)
-Ported drag turbo manifold
-XS external waste gate with flanged elbow and dump tube
-Turbo XS RFL blow off valve - real
-Turbo XS manual boost controller
-Ebay 2.5 Intercooler (Thats on it now. I have a dif intercooler now cant remember the name)
-All the piping (Just bought blue piping and needs to be installed)
-Oil pressure gauge and glow shift boost gauge
Exhaust
-3inch downpipe with 5 boly flange
-Test pipe
-BBP Exhaust (thermal knockoff)
Suspension & Wheels
-Dropzone sleeve coilovers
-Monroe sensa trac shocks
-K Tune traction bar
-14in HX wheel


Anyway, I got a pretty stellar deal on this thing.. I picked it up for $1000 with my race trailer (I have a few turbo drag cars). Here is a list of the crap that is currently on it, if anyone wants to offer any type of "get that %&%# off there" advice on it.
The plan is to trap 120mph with this thing.. I have E85 available everywhere up here, and I always have some C16 / E98 laying around for the race cars... so I dont see it being a huge issue to get the power out of this. I already put a 300lph pump in the tank, and it seems to work ok with the FPR it has.
questions
1. What sort of power can this motor make on race gas without turning into a puddle of parts? (I have a bunch of turbos on the shelf, a T3 housing s256ETT is one of them) How will the trans hold up? I hear the B series trans works better and is a moderately easy upgrade?
2. I have a chipped PM6 OBD0 ECU right now (barely drivable at the moment), I imagine that it is going to be fairly limited, but the kid did include a S200 box and a obd0-obd1 conversion harness. Stick to the PM6 or upgrade to something else? I run AEM's / motec in all of my race stuff, and I hear that the new ricer EMS AEM is not a complete pile of fail and would allow me to upgrade the ignition? suggestions appreciated, I make a living tuning domestics, so I have a good idea as to what I am doing with any option here.
3. Autozone axles / "stock clutch". Are these huge limiting factors? I imagine the stock clutch will get mad very soon, but I could be wrong?
4. the sparkplug boots are soaked in oil (specifically 3 and 4), simple gasket fix or bigger deal?
5. stuff you may comment on:
....yes I know the wastegate setup blows, I am installing a syncronic in a much better location before it moves.
....Yes ebay turbos suck, but I like them and this one looks like a winner so far
-D16A6
-75.5 Vitaras
-Forged custom length I beams
-Acl race bearing
-All new gasket kit
-450 blue top injectors
-B&M adjustable pressure regulator
-Freshly rebuilt A6 head
-AEM cam gear
-Lighted flywheel
-Stock clutch
-Stock 5 speed cable trans.
-Eg halfsize radiator
Forced induction
-Ebay 57 trim T3/T04e (Currently running 10 pounds)
-Ported drag turbo manifold
-XS external waste gate with flanged elbow and dump tube
-Turbo XS RFL blow off valve - real
-Turbo XS manual boost controller
-Ebay 2.5 Intercooler (Thats on it now. I have a dif intercooler now cant remember the name)
-All the piping (Just bought blue piping and needs to be installed)
-Oil pressure gauge and glow shift boost gauge
Exhaust
-3inch downpipe with 5 boly flange
-Test pipe
-BBP Exhaust (thermal knockoff)
Suspension & Wheels
-Dropzone sleeve coilovers
-Monroe sensa trac shocks
-K Tune traction bar
-14in HX wheel
Last edited by darkhorizon; Sep 27, 2012 at 09:21 AM.
Healthy Vitara builds can handle quite a bit of boost and timing. You shouldn't have a problem hitting your goal of trapping 120. I could be wrong, but I think you'll have to convert to OBD1 to use the S200.
Ugg, I am going to weigh my options here, as I have a MS2 sitting around somewhere as well...
Want to find someone running obd0 crap decently as I feel like it should work better than it does.
Want to find someone running obd0 crap decently as I feel like it should work better than it does.
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OBD 1 is the way to go for tunin g purposes and as far as i know the B series transmissions do not bolt up to D series blocks, i would also change the clutch for a stage 1 or go exedy just to be reliable
Updates,
1. Got it running on the PM6 ECU without much issue. Made some boost, tune looks pretty decent.
2. I hear quite a bit of noise coming from the front right while hitting bumps and whatnot... I imagine this is mostly normal for a car with a simple sleeve over coilover setup, and a honda transmission?
3. I am 90% set on installing my MegaSquirt2 system.... I have to build the entire ignition control bits inside of the ECU, but I did take the time to setup the software using my MS2 stimulator. Looks like this could be a fun little project, and my MS2 and 1000cc injectors should let me see about 21psi of boost without much issue on the MK4 supra fuel system I have installed... I will also be removing the whole "main relay" honda crap and replacing it with the MS relay control system (fan, ecu power, fuel pump, injector power, ignition power will all come from the ECU)
Questions.
1. I would like a wiring harness diagram for EVERYTHING on this CRX.. I imagine this is availible fairly easily, but I havent even tried to google it yet.
2. any honda megasquirt guys out there want to offer some advice?
3. is there any way to tighten up the shifter feel? It has some sort of short throw shifter in it, but the thing loves to flop all over the place in gear or not.
1. Got it running on the PM6 ECU without much issue. Made some boost, tune looks pretty decent.
2. I hear quite a bit of noise coming from the front right while hitting bumps and whatnot... I imagine this is mostly normal for a car with a simple sleeve over coilover setup, and a honda transmission?
3. I am 90% set on installing my MegaSquirt2 system.... I have to build the entire ignition control bits inside of the ECU, but I did take the time to setup the software using my MS2 stimulator. Looks like this could be a fun little project, and my MS2 and 1000cc injectors should let me see about 21psi of boost without much issue on the MK4 supra fuel system I have installed... I will also be removing the whole "main relay" honda crap and replacing it with the MS relay control system (fan, ecu power, fuel pump, injector power, ignition power will all come from the ECU)
Questions.
1. I would like a wiring harness diagram for EVERYTHING on this CRX.. I imagine this is availible fairly easily, but I havent even tried to google it yet.
2. any honda megasquirt guys out there want to offer some advice?
3. is there any way to tighten up the shifter feel? It has some sort of short throw shifter in it, but the thing loves to flop all over the place in gear or not.
What difference do you think you will see by removing the main relay?
You will just be putting it all on a a different relay with the MS setup so I'm not understanding the difference except the added headache of rewiring.
The only thing you listed that isn't controlled by the main relay are the fan.
Not sure what benefit you would have by making the fan ECU controlled???
You will just be putting it all on a a different relay with the MS setup so I'm not understanding the difference except the added headache of rewiring.
The only thing you listed that isn't controlled by the main relay are the fan.
Not sure what benefit you would have by making the fan ECU controlled???
Noise in the front passenger side when hitting bumps is probably your rack end bushing. And for the sloppy shifter, your bushings might be warn out. Energy makes some nice replacements for cheap.
What difference do you think you will see by removing the main relay?
You will just be putting it all on a a different relay with the MS setup so I'm not understanding the difference except the added headache of rewiring.
The only thing you listed that isn't controlled by the main relay are the fan.
Not sure what benefit you would have by making the fan ECU controlled???
You will just be putting it all on a a different relay with the MS setup so I'm not understanding the difference except the added headache of rewiring.
The only thing you listed that isn't controlled by the main relay are the fan.
Not sure what benefit you would have by making the fan ECU controlled???
1. I dont have one... the one that came with the car was litterally filled with water, and was the cause of the car not running.
2. The fan is controlled by a switch on the dashboard currently.... Going to use a relay/MS to control this.
3. Fuel pump control can be done by the MS using the current wiring I have.... I may run dual pumps eventually as well and use the MS to enable it... so its just what I am used to for these setups.
4. I cant seem to get the Main Relay I borrowed to work? There seems to be no "trigger" from the ignition switch that enables the main relay.
5. If adding 3 relays is your definition of a "wiring headache" you apparently have not seen what it takes to build a MS2 from scratch, lol.
Ill check out that steering rack end bushing.. I know the Fiero's i have have similar issues like that.
Any chance that the traction bars would be contributing to the noise at all?
Ah - since wiring was already a mess then the headache might actually not be as bad.
But then again, if you can get it running with just a new main relay then easy mode!
You might want to reconsider the fan relay.
It sounds like whomever had the car before you did a hack job with the fan switch install.
There is a temp controlled switch on the back of the motor that often is the culprit for the fan to stop running and people resort to the switch because they simply don't understand how to fix the fan circuit.
The fan is supposed to come on when the engine gets over a set temp.
Having it on a switch makes it run all the time. This isn't a good idea ... in fact it's a pretty bad idea as it makes the cooling system run improperly.
But then again, if you can get it running with just a new main relay then easy mode!
You might want to reconsider the fan relay.
It sounds like whomever had the car before you did a hack job with the fan switch install.
There is a temp controlled switch on the back of the motor that often is the culprit for the fan to stop running and people resort to the switch because they simply don't understand how to fix the fan circuit.
The fan is supposed to come on when the engine gets over a set temp.
Having it on a switch makes it run all the time. This isn't a good idea ... in fact it's a pretty bad idea as it makes the cooling system run improperly.
Having it on a switch makes it run all the time. This isn't a good idea
Interesting. So MS is going to be able to have a sensor that picks up the water temp and then turn on the fan?
I don't think it does, but could be wrong.
I don't think it does, but could be wrong.
Why only 11's in the 1/4 mile? This type of setup has been proven more than you would think. Here is just one example of what it's capable of - 600whp 400wtq...
http://forum.ectune.com/viewtopic.php?t=2103
I see plenty of problems with your setup, but my question is this: If you do this sort of thing for a living why do you need our help, especially with the basics? Things like - you should already know your injectors will run out of fuel on E85, that turbo manifold is junk, and essentially all the parts are prone to failure, ect... I am just not sure where you are trying to go with this is all.
http://forum.ectune.com/viewtopic.php?t=2103
I see plenty of problems with your setup, but my question is this: If you do this sort of thing for a living why do you need our help, especially with the basics? Things like - you should already know your injectors will run out of fuel on E85, that turbo manifold is junk, and essentially all the parts are prone to failure, ect... I am just not sure where you are trying to go with this is all.
So MS is going to be able to have a sensor that picks up the water temp and then turn on the fan
I see plenty of problems with your setup, but my question is this: If you do this sort of thing for a living why do you need our help
Also, I tune and build turbo setups (on domestics) for a side business (it just basically supports my stuff)... I have learned in my years that each platform seems to have its own quirks, and I only had a few vague ideas as to what my motor was capable of. I will eventually be making posts to get a few ideas of what peak timing is, etc.. just to make my job of tuning it easier. The same way I know exactly what alot of GM pushrod stuff needs for timing/fueling I imagine you guys could make some great suggestions as to what I need as well..
Why only 11's in the 1/4 mile? This type of setup has been proven more than you would think. Here is just one example of what it's capable of - 600whp 400wtq...
you should already know your injectors will run out of fuel on E85
that turbo manifold is junk,
and essentially all the parts are prone to failure
I am just not sure where you are trying to go with this is all.
Questions.
1. I would like a wiring harness diagram for EVERYTHING on this CRX.. I imagine this is availible fairly easily, but I havent even tried to google it yet.
2. any honda megasquirt guys out there want to offer some advice?
3. is there any way to tighten up the shifter feel? It has some sort of short throw shifter in it, but the thing loves to flop all over the place in gear or not.
1. I would like a wiring harness diagram for EVERYTHING on this CRX.. I imagine this is availible fairly easily, but I havent even tried to google it yet.
2. any honda megasquirt guys out there want to offer some advice?
3. is there any way to tighten up the shifter feel? It has some sort of short throw shifter in it, but the thing loves to flop all over the place in gear or not.
Last edited by Former User; Sep 29, 2012 at 06:15 AM. Reason: Don't make personal remarks in tech forums. Keep the discussion civil and focused on tech.
out of control............. ive seen builds like this run traps the way u have it setup lol . like u said ganna switch some **** around.. honestly i would go with 50 doller obd1 jumper and po6 or p28 tune it on crome pro for what your doing it would b plenty - get a ostrich and do it up tune on the go datalog all that and then some. biggest thign with that is make sure u pull plenty of timing out , cant here the dirty spark knock on them a6's write when u think got most of it it will **** on you lol
You said this yourself, "Here is a list of the crap that is currently on it, if anyone wants to offer any type of "get that %&%# off there" advice on it"... So I respond and you call me names? Look kid, I can assure you a few things: I call it like I see it - and I think you are already somewhat full of it. Your story went from you make a living on tuning and now you just do it on the side.
If you truly built or tuned anything you would already know all of the formulas for calculating everything you need from fuel, turbo, exhaust, ect... As you should already know - every engine is different and will want more or less timing. I suggest you download Crome for free and go to the BIN dump on their site and start studying.
If you need the formulas to figure out fueling and such I will be more than happy to post them for you. The reason I didn't answer most of your questions is because: 1.) I don't think I have ever seen a full schematic for wiring on an EF on the Internet. 2.) I am not a MegaSquirt person due to there being MANY other alternatives that don't require the headaches. 3.) This was already answered by another poster - why repeat?
You want awesome power but are using a cast manifold from eBay. The turbo is from eBay - do I really need to explain that? You do "tune/own/build" turbo drag cars... The Wastegates leak, you talk about "GlowShift" gauges, talk of PSI with no real turbo specs = irrelevant - One turbo at a certain PSI will not flow the same as another - its all about CFM... All signs point down. I am not actually trying to be mean - but people already hinted at advice and you got all defensive over nothing.
It is what it is, good luck with your build.
If you truly built or tuned anything you would already know all of the formulas for calculating everything you need from fuel, turbo, exhaust, ect... As you should already know - every engine is different and will want more or less timing. I suggest you download Crome for free and go to the BIN dump on their site and start studying.
If you need the formulas to figure out fueling and such I will be more than happy to post them for you. The reason I didn't answer most of your questions is because: 1.) I don't think I have ever seen a full schematic for wiring on an EF on the Internet. 2.) I am not a MegaSquirt person due to there being MANY other alternatives that don't require the headaches. 3.) This was already answered by another poster - why repeat?
You want awesome power but are using a cast manifold from eBay. The turbo is from eBay - do I really need to explain that? You do "tune/own/build" turbo drag cars... The Wastegates leak, you talk about "GlowShift" gauges, talk of PSI with no real turbo specs = irrelevant - One turbo at a certain PSI will not flow the same as another - its all about CFM... All signs point down. I am not actually trying to be mean - but people already hinted at advice and you got all defensive over nothing.
It is what it is, good luck with your build.
Last edited by Former User; Sep 29, 2012 at 06:17 AM. Reason: clean up
The turbo is from eBay - do I really need to explain that? You do "tune/own/build" turbo drag cars...
(I have a bunch of turbos on the shelf, a T3 housing s256ETT is one of them)
....Yes ebay turbos suck, but I like them and this one looks like a winner so far
5. stuff you may comment on:
....yes I know the wastegate setup blows, I am installing a syncronic in a much better location before it moves.
....yes I know the wastegate setup blows, I am installing a syncronic in a much better location before it moves.
you talk about "GlowShift" gauges, talk of PSI with no real turbo specs = irrelevant - One turbo at a certain PSI will not flow the same as another - its all about CFM... All signs point down. I am not actually trying to be mean - but people already hinted at advice and you got all defensive over nothing.
It is what it is, good luck with your build.
It is what it is, good luck with your build.
I am not sure if you are trying to be mean.
Last edited by Former User; Sep 29, 2012 at 06:19 AM. Reason: Don't make personal remarks in tech forums. Keep the discussion civil and focused on tech.


