nippon pistons and rings r they any good?
I'm not gonna be using them on a prelude but I heard the quality is good especially for the price..it depends on the condition of your block if you need to get it bored or not, if you do you can't use std size
Well I mean its good I just have to get that right nd what if I have the base model would I have to do any mods since the ype s bump me from 10:1 to 11:1
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No i got a whole rebuild kit for my g22 vtec came with rod, thrust, and main bearings also came with the head gasket, valve stems, intake and exhaust flange gasket, oil pan gasket, rear main seal, oil pump seals, waterpump gasket and valve cover gasket and mad o rings.
YEA IN EBAY FOR 225 AND DO I OR DO I NOT HAVE TO RE SLEEVE THEM I NEED TO KNOW THAT BCUZ I NEED TO THIS ALREADY AND HOW MUCH IS SOMETHING LIKE THAT
Nippon pistons are cast aluminum like the stock prelude pistons. If I remember right, Nippon is the OEM supplier of pistons to several companies. Should have no trouble with Fiber-Reinforced Metalic sleeves. Its the rate of thermal expansion and the tight stock piston to wall clearances that make running FORGED pistons in FRM not a good idea. Cast should be no problem, as long as all clearances are maintained as per Honda specs.
Mike
Mike
well they r for an h22 the only difference is that they r the type s my question is do i need to re sleeved only difference there would be is it will go from 10:1 to 11:1
you wouldn't need to re-sleeve it, but depending if you got the STD. Type-S or the Oversize...you might need a cylinder bore and hone.
yea got them on my boosted gsr, been in for a year and no problems yet.
and yes you do need to rehone your cylinder, but if you don't have a scratch on your cylinder than go with the STD size one.
and yes you do need to rehone your cylinder, but if you don't have a scratch on your cylinder than go with the STD size one.
well you should always re hone a block if it is glazed from so much mileage cause new rings don't seal well when the block is glazed. And when you install them you let the car warm up to normal operating temp and for the first 20 miles you almost want to beat it. The rings have to get used to the new crosshatch pattern so from 2, 3, 4 gear you give it load and then let it decelerate while in gear to cause a vacuum affect. And after that first 20 miles change the oil and use non synthetic and buy a magnetized oil drain plug mad metal fragments are going to be in the oil.
You don't need to but if it does have scoring then yes and it does have a crosshatch pattern of 60 degrees but its a different process to it. Maybe that is why people don't do it often.


