so i have a comp clutch stage 2 clutch that only has about 4k miles on it and was broken in properly but seems to drag and not engage or dis engage at times and grinds at higher rpm. im planing to buy a diffrent one but which would be best for say a 200-220 whp b20vtec setup

 

Did you just install it without the alignment tool and did you put a new pilot bearing in? why don't adjust the pedal freeplay and see if that helps or bleed your clutch or tighten the clutch cable if the avatar is your car.

 

i bled it adjusted pedal up all the way up changed both pilot and throw out bearing and used alignment tool and its in a 95 gsr then i also read a 15 page thread on here with about 20 ppl having the same issue with the same clutch lol yea im changing clutches just nee to know which would be best

 

Yeah i heard of comp clutches they always grind maybe a manufacturer defect but i know exedy is good bites pretty good and also ACT clutches. Ebay clutches are pretty good i have tested them i had a F1 6 puck stage 3 clutch and 8lb flywheel.

 

If you dont want to spend a fortune on clutch kit, cause they are expensive as fawk!!
for 200-220whp and roughly 140-160tq. a ACT 6 puck and a stock Pressure plate should be fine
im making 300whp 220tq. on my turbo lsv and it never slips on the street, only slips at the track on slicks lol. but just compare your tq. numbers to mines, I believe that it will work just fine for you even if your on slicks at the track.

 

i was thinking exedy stage 1 but not sure if it will hold power on the track at launch

 

well the exedy has a capacity of 201 ft lbs to the wheels im def under that lol

 

Exedy clutches are good trust me they bite well get a stage 2 or if not get a carbon Kevlar clutch.

 

I used an Exedy stage 1 for about 4 years. The first time around it was up against a B16 on the bottle (234whp, 192lb/ft tq), second time around, for over two years, it went up against my B20vtec (240whp, 165lb/ft tq). It never slipped once. They are definitely tough clutches but I really don't believe that they'll hold up to a pair of slicks at the track. IMO

BTW, that same clutch was taken out about a month ago and still had a ton of life left. It's now on my brother's B16 hatch.

 

They won't, which is why I have the Stage 2. I was tired of regular full face clutches slipping for drag racing. They are great for a DD but when you start preloading they just heat up and give up. The Exedy Stage 2 I have no problems with as a daily but most that drive my car find it difficult. Exedy 9.5LB flywheel and stage 2 clutch is a great setup for all motor. Honestly if I had to do it again I might have gone with a 7LB flywheel.

 

I LOOOOOOOOOOOOVE my 7 lb flywheel.

 

Clutchmasters stage 1 or 2, hands down IMO.

 

You think Clutchmasters > Exedy?

 

I think for NA applications exedy and clutch master are equal. But both fantastic companies. I had an exedy clutch the first go round, then the fx200 for the civic project. But those are the 2 companies I'd stick with

 

Agreed..

 

I would never go back to stage1 once modified..i think of it as oem replacement..just like tokico blues..anyways..i think any respectable clutch company stage 2 and up like clutchmaster, act, exedy, and spec will be fine..if u go thru ebay..get stage 3 or 4..y??cuz i usually take wat power level ebay has stated and lower its standard a bit to match my own power level..ex stg3=stg2 and stg4=stg3..ive been using ebay clutches on all My street setups since i started modding cars using this method..imo it only gets annoying once u get to unsprung disks or power levels where u really have to step it up..

 

"stages" don't mean anything of you don't know the characteristics of each company based on accurate feedback. One "stage 2" from one company may not be the same as "stage 2" from another. For example, a "stage 2" Exedy 08950b has a much smoother engagement than a spec "stage 2", even though it uses a cerametalic 3 puck sprung hub. But an eBay shopper may get the wrong impression by seeing the the type of disk it is and incorrectly pair it with an ACT AI4-HDR6 6 puck thinking that it is the better choice, when it is not.

Don't give eBay credit for anything when it comes to descriptions of automotive components. Go by feedback of users, or better yet contact the manufacturer directly for real help.

 

I dont know bout most people but i care less how a clutch engages whether smoother or rougher..id actually prefer a rougher engagement cuz im not into all that street legal and smoother drive stuff..yes My opinion dont matter but still..the op would still be able to benefit from My particular method..plus..any of those clutch brands i mentioned would resolve the ops addressed issue..if u wanna get into particular characteristics then yes..i agree with you..but by no means do i give ebay clutches credit when i compare their stage3 to lets say act stage2.

 

Sorry to thread jack but i remember reading a certain post on ht bout ebay clutches actually being a brand name clutch..that all those clutches are made at the same manufacturing factories..lets say that clutchmaster made an order for 5000 clutch kit to be made but only bought 4500 of them..the remaining are then sold as "ebay kits"..this is just from wat i remember reading and just a made up scenerio..did they ever come to a conclusion??probably not cuz only the manufacturers will know for sure..if thats the case..they can be advertise as anything..also a similar post bout turbos came up to..will we ever know??

 

Try a Competition Stage 4 four puck. I've used this clutch on almost every honda I've ever put a clutch on never any problems. Their very grippy an ain't to bad for dd IMO.

 

You gotta stop taking this **** so personally. Really, you're going to give yourself a migraine.

When I'm speaking of the choices and options that one has regarding e-bay and try and avoid pitfalls to make the best informed decision, I'm talking about this as a general rule of thumb. Not what you specifically needed to do in terms of your choices and needs. If this is the method on how you decide what's best for you.. great. it works for you. I'm only speaking as though a reasonable person has stumbled onto this thread and is trying to look at a general rule as to how one should not compare clutches simply based on "stages".. Nothing more, nothing less.

I swear, you young thundercats are going to have a stroke if someone even seems as though they are taking a personal jab at you.. my goodness.

 

Thundercats hoooo!!! I liked voltron better now that I think about it lol.

Op- it almost sounds like your original problem could lie in the pressure plate not the clutch itself.
was the pp new along with the clutch?
You should be able to get away with an act hdss if you wanted to go that route. It held on a 300hp/210ftlb integra I put together it will hold on your car. Please don't get any cheap ebay xtd crap. I've had to replace a bunch of them in friends cars over the years

 

clutch and pp was purchased together as a kit new and i agree that it is probably the pressure plate which is the problems i heard about comp clutches

 

clutchmasters although the most expensive of them all is def a option exedy stage 1 is a bit cheaper then the rest

 

i have another question about my build which is a bit off topic but i rather not make a new thread. i have a real smsp mild steel header which i think is a b19 not 100 percent sure i can post pics to have it verified, but i have a option to get a skunk2 megapower header for a decent price im guessing which would be a better choice for my setup. its a mild b20vtec skunk2 tuner 2 cams compression id guess around 11 ish im getting 235-240 compression result numbers aebs intake mani, 65mm throttle body, 3 inch exhaust, 3 inch short ram with v-stack