I know this might sound like a "newb" question, but I am actually wanting to do all the work myself to my project so I am here to learn as much as possible... Here goes. I have a stock 00' Civic Ex Sedan with a D16Y8 engine. My questions are:

1) Does anyone know what this engine is capable of? I know the car stock does roughly about 120-127hp. What is this in WPH?

2) I'm doing some modifications to the car. GReddy Spectrum Elite Exhaust, DC headers 4-2-1 (2 piece), and an Injen cold air intake. Will this make a significant change? If so, by how much?

 

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WHP? Maybe 90-100hp. What is it capable of? In what form? Your question is too vague.
Significant change? Yes. To your wallet but next to nothing to your car. Maybe 12hp.

 

dont waste your time with the name brand exhaust and intake.. a tube is a tube no matter who's name is on the box.

if you want to make power, add boost.

 

its a waste of money to even think about adding an exhaust to a stock car just makes it loud.... its not an H series it doesnt respond well to boltons trust me i have i/h/e thats because i got it all free and i like the the noise over the sh*tty winding noise

add boost or swap if u want power

 

To make any power over stock you must tune a car for the mods. You can get 15whp from exhaust with the supporting mods (cams, injectors, port matched intake manifold to throttle body, intake, and a TUNE! Hondata is generally a good thing to have when you want to make more power with a honda. If you have the money and want to make some power than rebuild the engine with oversized 9:1 pistons, cams, valve springs, titanium retainers, and boost it

 

over 2,000 dollars to gain 15hp seems legit to me

 

Sometimes I don't think people understand the term "cost effective" or "best bang for your buck".

 

Those mods will get you almost nothing, maybe 8 hp if you are lucky.

Adding exhaust will get you a nice tip out the bumper and sound.

 

Exactly.

Kev

 

"cost effective and best bang for your buck" with a D16Y8 would be boost...other than that, eBay header/muffler, intake (at least have a decent filter on there) and like everyone else stated, a tune. Now that's if you wanna gain a small amount of power, you do direct bolt-ons. If you want a LOT of power....it's gonna cost you quite a few pennies since you'll have to buy a decent turbo setup. That's also if you wanna run a turbo on stock pistons/rods/etc.

 

Not true, sfar. You can easily get to the 200 whp mark safely and reliably with a D16Y7/Y8 with less than $1200 invested in a turbo setup, if you're willing to shop around for the parts and don't expect it to be done tomorrow.

 

oh, if you wanna buy your parts used then you can build a 200+hp tuned Y8 no problem. I was referring to BNIB parts from reputable companies....i've seen SOHC engines with stock internals run eBay turbo setups and push 200whp on a conservative tune and not pop, the only thing that happened was the turbo grenaded after a few months. Also, in my original post i was referring to 300+whp, you can get 200whp pretty easily for under $1200.

 

The people who run those eBay turbo setups are the people who want it done tomorrow.

Take a few months, piece everything together, and do all the work over a weekend after you have everything you'll need. Just make sure you spend as much time researching as you do hunting down parts, so you know exactly what you want before you buy a manifold, then get a turbo with a different flange or some stupid ****. I've been running a hair over 200WHP for over a year now with zero turbo-related problems, and it cost me a hair over a grand, nothing bought from eBay.

 

There are two kinds of people that run turbo setups. Ones that don't care and want to go fast over the span of a weekend and impress their prepubescent friends and the other is the kind that wants to know how everything actually works as a unit and maintain it so that it will last.

 

and all we can do is try to get people to do it the right way, right grumble?

Seriously though genuineej8, if your car is turboed less than a month from now, you're either doing it wrong, or you have deep pockets. If you have deep pockets, I'll gladly sell you my setup

 

if he has deep enough pockets i'm sure he can fly someone out there to build it for him, i know this one guy down in Dallas....

 

to learn as much as possible.. to gather the most accurate and usefull info/data you need to put the car on the dyno. set a stock baseline and then do a run after each mod. or part change. guesses, even educated guesses from a forum like this won't do you much good. if it really matters to you, put a little money in it. if it's not worth the cost, find a different way to spend your free time.

 

search on here and look at other peoples builds and successes and failures and find what you want to do.

Its good you want to learn. Remember quality = $$$$ cheap = crap 99% of the time!

 

Money, speed, reliability. You can only have two.

 

I laugh everytime my local craigslist has postings....Straight trade..your OEM exhaust/intake/etc for my *insert company name here*

Boost = best bang for the buck.
Boost = also takes the most amount of knowledge. It aint like throwing I/H/E on with 10 bolts on and off.

 

Ok so let me correct this

Waste of time and money
Port matching has been proven to hurt a street car, you need a step in there
Cam on a stock car.. Waste OEM cam is perfect
Stock Retainers with Supertech valve springs

Putting an intake and exhaust on the car is just freeing up air flow and freeing up power that was lost. You wont actually gain power over the stock HP honda made the motor for..

 

You cannot make power out of a honda with bolt-ons...

 

A turbo bolts on.

 

will someone close this thread already..

Im glad i dont have to mod this site!