its a 93 ls with a JDM b18C GSR engine. all stock internally. about two years ago had the block rebuilt because i spun a rod bearing due to burning oil and me not checking it refularly.. decided not to rebuild the head because of overwhelming financial problems at the time.. but even after the bottom end got rebuilt it would still burn a little bit of oil.. -_- so fast forward to present day 2 years later.. it started smoking.. it smells like burning oil and it has a tint of blue so i dont think its a head gasket issue.. car never overheats and coolant level is always the same.. but oil burns.. i but it only throws smoke on a cold start up after the car has been sitting for atleast 15 minutes.. after it warms up the smoke goes away.. which make me think that its my valve guides and seals?.. can i be correct? i know the sure way to tell is due a leakdown test.. i dont have access to one at the time or the money to have a shop do it because i just got married and have a baby on the way lol. i will rebuild the engine sometime early next year.. so till then my question is can i use any oil additives to stop the smoke and slow it down till i rebuild the engine? its getting bad to the point where i wont be able to drive it without getting pulled over for the smoke.. its my only form of transportation.. thanks for the help in advance

 

I'm guessing valve guides and seals also, pretty sure there is not a lot you can do about it, [without replacing the guides/seals] wait till the car warms up. 94

 

thanks for the reply.. to replace the valve guides and seals ill have to remove to head right?.. i got qouted 200 dollars to rebuild the head.. valve job.. seals.. hot tanked.. if i bring them the bare head... i just dont want to do that and then come to find out that it was also the piston rings -_- again the bottom end was rebuilt 2 years ago..

 

Smoking on a cold start usually means the valve seals are bad. What happens is the oil running through the head eventually passes through the seals after the car is shut off. It then collects on top of the pistons, and when you start it up in the morning, the oil gets burned off.

To replace the valve seals the head does not have to be removed but it is easier with the head off in order to not drop a valve. If it's the guides, however, then yes, the head needs to be removed.

 

How many miles were on the motor when you put it in, and how many are on it now? A little more info on the swap please?

 

Or stock b17?

 

^^^ title and original post states it's a jdm b18c lol

 

Using thicker oil will definitely help. I'd suggest something along 40 weight.

 

thanks "JDM TYPE R DC2" that is exactly what i figured was hapening with the valve seals.. but im gonna also change the guides just to be on the safe side.. motor pulls strong and their is absolutely no loss in power at all..


and common DALSVEE i thought my post was good giving all the info necessary lol. its a JDM b18C of a SIR-G integra. stronger version of the USDM B18C1 GS-R.

 

good call on the guides. people usually just do seals, not knowing the underlying cause is the guide.