Alright, I'm sorta new to tuning crome so bear with me. I've scoured the pgmfi forums and a lot of it is greek to me. I am aware I need certain parts to tune properly, but I want to spend the money on the parts, not on someone else tuning my car telling me how messed up it was. I have the Hulog datalogger cable and I have a Moates Burn 2 chip burner, and a Crome pro license. I basically just want to know what I'm looking at when I have a bin open. I got the basics down, like tuning for larger injectors and just outside settings like vtec and 2 step and all the basic stuff. I am in the process of wiring up a wideband, it's not digital, but it was free so yea. I don't have an emulator for RTP but was thinking about getting one. I'm still messing with the TPS to get it dialed in, as that is a major factor in tuning. I have a FPR so I can adjust that wherever I need it.

To give you some background, the engine is a JDM b16a running JDM P30 ecu with a random tune someone gave me. It's worked fine for now, but I've installed a larger intake mani and tb and was thinking about throwing some 440 injectors in, so I want to dial this thing in so she's running at full potential. I've downloaded and edited a few roms to try and tinker with it and see if I can make any progress, some work better than others, but I know it's not completely right.

First of all, I want to know the exact process for tuning a TPS, I have a new IACV on the way, however there is a plugin on Crome to eliminate the IACV, so I want to know what to do once I do so, so I don't mess anything up, etc. My TPS isn't far out of calibration, just a little bit enough where the idle is funny. Ask me any questions I'll answer them to the best of my ability.

Thanks

 

without rtp you cannot tune the ecu no matter how many things u tweak out it will still be considered as a BASEMAP until you get a rtp+wideband and tune the afrs accordingly

 

Actually, back in the day (some may still do this) tuners used to make a run while datalogging all the parameters, AFR, ECT MAP TPS..etc..etc... with jsut the laptop and a datalogging device (hulog/Hondalog). Then they would go back to the pits, read the data and make the appropriate changes in the software. They would then burn the updated .bin file back onto the chip using an EPROM burner. (Burn1/2 etc etc) This would no longer be considered a basemap as changes have been made in accordance to what the ECU/engine requires. They would continue making runs and changes until the data they saw was what they were looking for. Then it would be considered tuned.

The days of the Burn 2 and having to burn multiple chips has been passed up for RTPs and emulators. The RTPs (real time programmer) and/or emulators allow the tuner to make adjustments on the run. aka live tuning.

OP if your TPS is not calibrated you will need to calibrate your TPS using a voltmeter before making changes in Crome. 0.45-0.5v @ closed throttle and 4.5v-5v @ wide open throttle. There are a few DIYs around here that will show you what wires to probe in order to calibrate.

 

Lol exactly. I remember the days of just having a burner, and a wideband and remembering where it leaned out lmaO

 

Ghost you have described my EXACT situation. I have a Burn2 and a Hulog, and that is exactly the process I've planned on going through to tune this car. And I have no problem in doing this, I just want someone to help me figure out what I'm looking at and looking for when it comes to tuning. I'm sick and tired of searching through tech forums and reading pro tuners talk about "how to tune" when everything they say is greek to me. I'm new to this, but I'm not stupid, so it wouldn't take someone long (willing they're kind enough to donate some time) to help me get this down pat.

Also, if you know how to tune the TPS, could you explain it? Again I've looked at threads describing how to tune it and none of it is specific enough to where it helps me. I've heard of people tuning their tps based on a datalogger cable, because the ecu will display what the tps sensor is giving it, so I could just have it loose and look at my laptop with datalogger running and tweak the tps until it reads zero on closed throttle. Plus Crome has a plugin to tune for non honda tps' for if I were to get the readings without having the datalogger running.

Thanks for understanding my particular situation Ghost, hope you can help me further.

 

Have you read the DIY about Crome on xenocron.com?

 

Alright so I ran a short start/run datalogger session. Just to see if I could notice anything important. And something obvious came up. TPS indicator to the ECU is stuck at 26%, and any throttle input isn't registered. It stays at 26 whether throttle is open or closed. I wiggled the TPS and it's not delivering anything to the ECU. Any ideas what could be going on here?

 

Is this an original TPS or one that has been replaced on the throttle body?

Maybe you have the MAP and TPS connectors switched.

 

It's a Blox TPS and I wasn't aware honestly that they could possibly be switched, but just for humor let me check.

Ok no they're not switched, when I switch them and push the gas pedal in the datalogger shows the manifold pressure and boost levels change...the car's not even running, so I switched em back, pushed the gas, and still nothing, it's still stuck on 26%

 

I also pulled CEL codes and when I jump service connector when car is not on it gives me the TPS code, that's fine, but when it's not running randomly it gives me IACV code, but Crome isn't picking this up, like it does the TPS. Hmm...

 

TPS may not be installed/wired properly or it could be bad.

Do you have access to a voltmeter or multimeter? You are going to have to back probe your TPS sensor connector. Are you familiar with electronics/electrical testing at all?



Place the black (-) probe of your meter into the back of the (-) wire on the connector and the red + probe into the back of the signal wire. With the key on engine off and the throttle closed you should read 0.45v-0.5v. As you open the throttle plate with your hand the voltage should go up. Until you reach wide open throttle and it reads approx. 4.5v - 5v.

If you placemove the red probe into the (+) wire connector you should see 5v with the key on engine off.

 

I disconnected the sensor and am testing leads on the connector itself first
(+ and -) gives me 10.2 volts. Signal and (+) gives me 5.5. Granted I'm doing all this right. Just when I did this before none of the connections made sense. I have a primitive ish meter, here I'll just add a picture if it'll let me.

 

 

Voltage between the + & - wires shouldn't be any more than 5v.

Is this a stock wire harness or has it been modified? What are your three wire colours?

 

Now could I also take the ohmmeter and test the sensor itself for proper resistance? Being that it is a variable resistor (potentiometer)

 

It should be a stock obd1 vtec engine harness, I haven't modified it personally. The motor was swapped in years ago by a friend of mine, and have never had a problem with anything until about a few months ago when it started idling high. Someone told me replace tps, but never told me to calibrate it, so I did and this is happening. :-/

Wire colors are red yellow and green, I broke a connector a few months ago so I got a new one with pigtails and wired it in matching each color up just as it should be.

 

So you measured the voltage between the connector YEL/WHT (+) & GRN/WHT (-) wires. and you get 10.2v. You should only be getting 5v. Something isn't right there so you should start with that.

Could be the ECU (TPS circuit) or the wire circuit between the ECU and connector.

 

This is key on ignition off, wtf

 

Someone else brought that up, that maybe there is either a broken wire, or bare wire from the ecu to the sensor, or somewhere, but that would be almost impossible to track down. And yes that 10.2 was from green and yellow leads, center lead is red. Unless rewiring the connector up would change it? Or help it? I unplugged the sensor and it's still showing 26% to the ecu, that could tell me that there is an interference somewhere and the ecu isn't getting a reading from the sensor it's picking up resistance from somewhere else that's constant. Maybe?

 

Hey your engine is rotating 28rpm without it even being started.

Do you have access to another ECU? Even a stock USDM OBD1

 

I know I noticed that too and I have NO idea why it's showing that, once the car is started it reads rpms fine, but when it's not running it shows 28. And that picture was with the tps unplugged......

 

I could probably ask around and see if I could borrow someones. Should I look for a stock p30 or a chipped one so I could datalog on it? Or does it really matter. I was thinking something with ecu may be funky as well...but I don't know as of now.

And what would you suggest I do with said ecu?

 

Also could I run my own wires to and from the proper locations and wire them back into the sensor plug and see if that helps? I don't know the proper locations but are quite good at wiring so once I know where to go it'd be cake.

I mean could there be the unfortunate possibility that this particular ecu is fried? Or malfunctioning? I mean yea the only way to be sure is to get another p30 ecu that's chipped and has a cn2 so I can datalog and see if the data is the same.

 

Your going to want to check the voltage coming out of D20 (VCC2) on your ECU. It should only be 5v.

Are you using EGR? I only ask because the EGR valve lift sensor is the only other sensor that is connected to D20.

 

Alright just tested d20 and got exactly 10.2v, what is going on why am I getting so much voltage?