Roadraceautox.com / rrax overfenders , fender flares , wide fenders
I keep getting pm's from time to time about my fenders.
I bought them from a guy on roadraceautox.com and he has the molds and builds them to order.
I believe they were $280 for fronts or $450 for front and rear.
I think his nam is rejman62 on there, so go look for him.
Tell him Black R sent you and maybe he will give you a deal on them.
*I paid full price for these fenders and have no affiliation with the aforementioned.
Here's the pics of everything mounted and mocked up.
The wheels are 15x8 te37 in +45 offset.
That's too high imo, so I decided to use some h&r 25mm spacers.
This makes the effective offset +20.
Ideally, I would be using a +24 offset to get the same backspacing as oem, so I'm not too far off with just a little extra poke.
The tires are a 275/35/15 hoosier autox compound.





(rear has serious poke before rear overfenders install.)

(rear after overfenders install)



.…
I bought them from a guy on roadraceautox.com and he has the molds and builds them to order.
I believe they were $280 for fronts or $450 for front and rear.
I think his nam is rejman62 on there, so go look for him.
Tell him Black R sent you and maybe he will give you a deal on them.
*I paid full price for these fenders and have no affiliation with the aforementioned.
Here's the pics of everything mounted and mocked up.
The wheels are 15x8 te37 in +45 offset.
That's too high imo, so I decided to use some h&r 25mm spacers.
This makes the effective offset +20.
Ideally, I would be using a +24 offset to get the same backspacing as oem, so I'm not too far off with just a little extra poke.
The tires are a 275/35/15 hoosier autox compound.





(rear has serious poke before rear overfenders install.)

(rear after overfenders install)



.…
Last edited by Black R; May 12, 2015 at 07:09 AM.
I ended up using m5-.8 socket cap 30mm bolts and #10 washers with rubber on the inside.
I made holes 1/2" from the outer edge and 4" apart.
I also used 3m rubberized undercoating for the holes I drilled in the chassis.
On the back side, I am using m5-.8 nuts with nylon locking centers.





*these pics are on 15x7 -1 (yes negative 1) offset with 205/50/15 direzza tires.
I made holes 1/2" from the outer edge and 4" apart.
I also used 3m rubberized undercoating for the holes I drilled in the chassis.
On the back side, I am using m5-.8 nuts with nylon locking centers.





*these pics are on 15x7 -1 (yes negative 1) offset with 205/50/15 direzza tires.
Should have just siliconed the rears one if you werent going to mould them on. The hardware kills it a bit to me
They do look pretty mean though
They do look pretty mean though
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Bump from the dead haha! Hey! I really like those overfenders used on that ef hatchback. I searched and searched and found an old email address belonging to the guy who makes those flares, so I sent an email to him asking if still produced them, however he has yet to respond. Does anyone know if he still makes them? If so, could someone direct me to where I can get in touch with him? I know this an old thread, but I LOVE those flares! I must have them
I haven't been on h-t in a while, but just happened to log on today and see your post.
Let me see if I can dig up his email.
*edit*
Here's the paypal addy he had when I purchased the fenders:
RejmanRacing@aol.com
Good luck!
Let me see if I can dig up his email.
*edit*
Here's the paypal addy he had when I purchased the fenders:
RejmanRacing@aol.com
Good luck!
Hey thanks! I didn't really expect a response from anyone because it's such an old thread- ill definitely check out that link and see what it has to offer
yuck.. and $450 dam thats a lot
If you want to do this to your car what you can do is
Build the flares with cardboard and then bondo over them
make them look exactly how you want
then you go to the pharmacy and get green tincture soap
apply the soap to the temporary flares and it acts as a mold release
then go to an art store and get plaster cast or get some plaster and dip it in burlap.
you need to build the mold about a half inch thick of plaster
pop the molds off after 24hrs make sure it does not get wet
they will get hot.
then once you have the mold you want to clean it up inside
then spray the inside of it with some primer .. professionals use Gel Coat Mold Release but thats expensive
and then start laying your fiberglass.
honestly watch a 10 minute youtube video on making hood scoups or i saw a real good on a place that makes fiberglass fish trophies for people's walls out of the fish they catch.
If you want to do this to your car what you can do is
Build the flares with cardboard and then bondo over them
make them look exactly how you want
then you go to the pharmacy and get green tincture soap
apply the soap to the temporary flares and it acts as a mold release
then go to an art store and get plaster cast or get some plaster and dip it in burlap.
you need to build the mold about a half inch thick of plaster
pop the molds off after 24hrs make sure it does not get wet
they will get hot.
then once you have the mold you want to clean it up inside
then spray the inside of it with some primer .. professionals use Gel Coat Mold Release but thats expensive
and then start laying your fiberglass.
honestly watch a 10 minute youtube video on making hood scoups or i saw a real good on a place that makes fiberglass fish trophies for people's walls out of the fish they catch.
If anyone cares, I found out he does indeed stil make the flares however they have gone up in price! $550 plus shipping, thanks for the replies guys
Edit: it also will take 1-2 months before you can receive your flares, as his fiberglass guy is quite busy
Edit: it also will take 1-2 months before you can receive your flares, as his fiberglass guy is quite busy
Last edited by beat ignition; May 14, 2015 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Added information
$280 is not bad for fronts IMO.
What other options do you have - other than diy?
Cheapest I've seen is a 3pc front at $1000, so this seems quite reasonable.
Last edited by Black R; May 21, 2015 at 05:26 AM.
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