Fixin to pull my gsr head..
Undo all wire connectors, undo fuel lines, exhaust manifold, timing belt, remove camse and cam caps (in sequence), undo coolant hoses, loosen head bolts (in sequence), and pull the head off. You can leave the intake manifold on if you want, makes it easier I think.
Don't forget to drain fluids first. Use the link jeff posted, when I did my first head gasket at the age of 15 I just printed out instructions from a website and did it by myself. And honda's are much easier than the car I did, so with instructions you should have no problem. Unless you are not mechanically inclined enough to do it.
Do it in this order:
Fluids, intake, wiring harness, hoses, manifolds, valve cover, belt, cam caps/cams, head bolts. And viola! Your'e done! Good luck!
Here is a video I made, watch it for reference. Just watch it and you will see basically how I did it.
1:26-1:40 I was turning the motor to TDC trying to keep my timing marks in line. But you don't have to do that. You can set the engine at TDC before you put the head back then line up the timing marks before you put the belt on. You do not have to take the cam gears off.
http://youtu.be/wmf5642W5ts
Yes that's me
lol
Fluids, intake, wiring harness, hoses, manifolds, valve cover, belt, cam caps/cams, head bolts. And viola! Your'e done! Good luck!
Here is a video I made, watch it for reference. Just watch it and you will see basically how I did it.
1:26-1:40 I was turning the motor to TDC trying to keep my timing marks in line. But you don't have to do that. You can set the engine at TDC before you put the head back then line up the timing marks before you put the belt on. You do not have to take the cam gears off.
http://youtu.be/wmf5642W5ts
Yes that's me
lol
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Op seems like a novice.
I'd say this:
Internal:
Undo the coolant drain plug on the block
Undo the coolant drain bolt on the rad
Disconnect everything attached to the head, sensors, exhaust manifold (leave intake manifold on)
Disconnect everything attached to the intake manifold
Disconnect fuel lines, throttle cable, intake tubing
Thats it for external:
Internal:
Remove valve cover
Make sure the motor is at TDC, the holes in the cam caps should line up with the cam (not sure if this is on GS-R, my LS had it)
Remove all of the cam caps in the appropriate order (look below)
Remove cam caps and cams (SLIDE timing belt off if you don't feel like loosening tension
Remove spark plugs (optional)
Remove head using correct dismounting sequence
End internal
PM me for the factory service manual (PDF) and you can look at cylinder head removal for pictures and diagrams. I encourage you to get one yourself, since every answer is in there.
EDIT: My car doesnt have ac/ps, but you will need to take off 3 bolts I think for the power steering pump
I'd say this:
Internal:
Undo the coolant drain plug on the block
Undo the coolant drain bolt on the rad
Disconnect everything attached to the head, sensors, exhaust manifold (leave intake manifold on)
Disconnect everything attached to the intake manifold
Disconnect fuel lines, throttle cable, intake tubing
Thats it for external:
Internal:
Remove valve cover
Make sure the motor is at TDC, the holes in the cam caps should line up with the cam (not sure if this is on GS-R, my LS had it)
Remove all of the cam caps in the appropriate order (look below)
Remove cam caps and cams (SLIDE timing belt off if you don't feel like loosening tension
Remove spark plugs (optional)
Remove head using correct dismounting sequence
End internal
PM me for the factory service manual (PDF) and you can look at cylinder head removal for pictures and diagrams. I encourage you to get one yourself, since every answer is in there.
EDIT: My car doesnt have ac/ps, but you will need to take off 3 bolts I think for the power steering pump
thanks for all the help guys i did all the work before looking at this again...lol the only thing is that i saw that it has arp head studs in it so i tried to get em off last night with a 13mm 12 point and i noticed it had a little play so i didn't wanna mess anything up and i looked and they're actually sae 1/2 12 point so I'm glad i didn't go crazy last night.. I'm gonna try and get the head off today if it'll ever stop raining.. lol
Yea I ran into the same problem trying to get my head back off, realized they weren't 13mm 12point and almost stripped them, I coulnd't find my 1/2 that I used to torque them down the first time, so I had to run to sears to buy another. Since they are ARP's you can reuse them you do not need to buy new head bots/studs.
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