I have faith in you Honda Gods. Crx is an 88 DX, with a previously running b18a1, obd0, pr4 ecu. I have everything hooked up to the best of my knowledge and I am getting these two codes...3 (map sensor) and 14 (electronic air control). I have bought a new map sensor and it also threw code 3. I realized I am missing two things (fuel pressure regulator solenoid valve and the evap purge control solenoid valve) for certain but I am getting some info from a friend that says I can run this motor in my Crx and I dont need those two valves. So I went to the junk yard and pulled the stock b18a1 intake piping and all brand new vacuum lines. My CRX has an old converted harness for a b16 (obd0 also) and I dont even have the plug on the harness for the two solenoid valves. I am still getting the codes and I am stumped. I have read maybe these CEL codes can be resolved by setting the timing. Is this the direction I should be going? and if anyone knows how my vacuum lines should look on an obd0 crx swap (stock intake mani and intake piping) Thank you for your help. Im on a budget so the advice is really helpful!
OORAH.

 

the tps and map sensor can be easily crossed. they have the same plugs. so start there and try and swap them over see that the result is.


a code 14 is for idle air control valve....

make sure you have the right connecter on the idle air control valve. thats located on the back of the manifold. if you have the wrong plug on there. the engine might start but die.


PM ME FOR FURTHER HELP!

 

the throttle position connector has a red wire in the middle. the map sensor doesnt.

as far as the idle air control valve. im not sure what the colors maybe. but i know forsure there are 2 plugs that are identical.


good luck

 

im going to check what you just told me about the tps and map sensor being switched as soon as I post this. but the car doesnt die. I took off the idle air control valve already and cleaned it out. im still not sure how the vacuum lines are going to go since I dont have the LS engine harness, but a modified DX crx (b16a obd0 was previous setup) harness. Im still wondering about the two valves on the intake manifold. one is the air boost valve and the other is the valve that is connected to the throttle. . . forgot its name. I will post my results about the TPS sensor/MAP sensor switch in just a minute. thanks.

 

Ive had the right TPS and MAP sensor connections. I am still getting code three and four. I found I had a antifreeze hose with the clamp not tight enough so I fixed that, bled the airbubbles out of the antifreeze lines and tried it again. still code 3 and code 14. I have tried the following three setups with the vacuum lines. Its the air boost valve and the dashpot diaghram. Im looking for the crx b18a1 vacuum diagram... does it need the pressure regulator cut off solenoid and the purge cut off solenoid?

 

Ohm the wires from the ECU plugs directly to the sensor plugs and make sure they're working and in the right spots. Make sure they have good grounds and are getting the power expected as well, I believe they're both 5V input, ground, and signal but I could be wrong (IACV might be 12V).

You do NOT need the PCS (purge control solenoid) and dashpot in order to have correct idle and they're unrelated to the codes you're getting. The ECU doesn't even have a code for those two things, at least in OBD1, I haven't dug through the ODB0 ROM dumps like the ODB1. Also make sure the MAP sensor is hooked up to the right vacuum port. If it's in the wrong spot you'll get a MAP code and occasionally the ECU will throw the IACV code if the idle's bad, just because it says "I dunno, the idle sucks, it's probably the IACV" even if there's nothing wrong with the IACV.

Solve the codes, then try and get the idle where it should be. You'll never get the idle right with those two codes in place, those are two major codes. But of the two, the MAP sensor code is far more important.

 

ok I will give that a shot and post my results. I gotta look up how to do that first. I got the tool tho.

 

i second Raene, if your lines arent in the right spot or ones unplugged it'll throw a code, re-check all that

the vacuum lines are run the same as your stock motor, pretty much. all the diagrams can be a pita. i'm going by the picture in my head of my own so i'll try and explain it as good as i can without a picture, but ill try and upload of pic of the way i ran mine tomorrow.

the one solinoid next to the map sensor has 2 connections on it, one at the bottom and one on the side, the bottom one runs to the left nipple on the back of the IM,
the side one should go to the charcoal cannister, or can also go to the throttle body. the right nipple goes to the fpr on the fuel rail.


i might have something mixed up so i'll check mine in the morning and tell you if i'm right.

 

wiring was bad to the sensor from the ecu. I was a noob and had to learn how to use a voltimeter. thanks for the help