So I began the miserable task of trying to replace the heater core yesterday and after hours of agrication I am down to the 3 climate control boxes and the main steel crossbeam. Every service manual I find is no help at all they all say to simply remove the dash and heater duct to access the core and so far they have left out things such as removing the passenger airbag to be able yo rove the dash and all the various wire connectors and now I can't for the life of me figure out how to get to the core. I tried to remove the top of the heater box which is all the ducts and it won't lift off without the crossbeam removed so I tried removing the beam and it won't budge. At this rate I might be better off parting out the car. Apparently I'm the first person dumb enough to attempt replacing the heater core on a 97 accord seeing as nobody has any clue to how it's done and there is no detailed instructions.

I'm just hoping somebody on here has gone down into the guts of the dash/interior and knows the secret.



The car is a 1997 accord 4cyl 2.2 auto SE.

 

Suggest downloading a better manual

 

Tried that. Including the manual you attached a thumbnail of. They all lack an excessive amount of needed information when it comes to replacing the heater core. It appears that very few people have ever replaced a heater core on a 97 accord if anyone. Now when I do a search all I come up with are my own posts.

 

On mines car, there's a mounting bolt inside the engine compartment next to the hoses you have to take off. Not sure if you have one as well.

 

im about to start this task on my 95 honda accord lx coupe im not 100% sure my heater core is bad but someone looped it and i have no heat so im pretty sure the heater core is bad... however i am going to try to hook it back up tomorrow and hope for the best but knowing my luck the heater core will have to be replaced... so any advise or info will be much appreciated and i will let you know tomorrow if im going to have to replace it!!

 

You might have to remove the intake manifold to reach the hoses, I know I had to. Chances are since it is looped your core is bad. I would attach some length of hose to the inlet and outlet and try to run some stop leak through it and see if that will fix it. Then at least you can try to avoid clogging up the thermostat and everything if you only run it through the core. I'm going to try and put everything back together and go that method I never expected it to be such a nearly impossible task

 

Lol were you trying to pull the assembly out before removing the hoses ?

 

Nope, everythings disconnected just can't get the heater box out. The steering support crossbeam has to be removed which for the life of me can't figure it out I already removed all the bolts and it won't budge. Then the evaporator has to be removed but to do that you have to remove other things in the engine compartment to get to it. And then the heater box can come out. You can't even remove the evaporator and reach in because the core is fastened behind the box as well. The hole design is against replacing the core. I'm not going to bother anymore I'm putting it back together before I have to scrap my car

 

1. To remove the dashboard, first slide the seats back fully.
2. Remove the console.

1. Remove the knee bolster and lower panel.
2. Remove the steering column.

1. Disconnect the dashboard wire harness from the connectors and fuse box.
2. Remove the carpet clips and disconnect the antenna lead.
3. Disconnect the heater control cable and function control cable.
4. Remove the caps on both sides and remove the clock.
5. Remove the 7 dashboard mounting bolts.
6. Lift and remove the dashboard.

REASSEMBLY NOTES:

• Make sure the dashboard fits onto the body correctly.
• Before tightening the dashboard bolts, make sure the dashboard wires are not pinched, and that the dashboard is not interfering with the heater control and function cables.

 

1. On models equipped with radio coded theft protection system, refer to Vehicle Damage Warnings for system disarming and arming procedures. On models equipped with airbag system, refer to Technician Safety Information for system disarming and arming procedures.
2. Remove front seat end track covers.
3. Remove front seat mounting bolts, then the front seats.

1. Remove front of center console.
2. Remove lower center trim panel mounting bolts, then disconnect cigarette lighter and radio electrical connectors.
3. Remove lower center trim panel and radio.
4. Remove glove compartment mounting screws, then the glove compartment.
5. Remove instrument panel lower cover from under steering column, then the A/C duct.
6. Remove steering column lower cover.
7. Remove two steering column mounting bolts, then lower column.

1. On models with passenger side air bag , remove air bag bracket attaching nuts, then the bracket.

Fig. 12 Exploded View Of Instrument Panel

1. Remove access panels at each of instrument panel, Fig. 12.

1. Disconnect electrical connectors and heater control cable.
2. Remove six instrument panel mounting bolts.

1. Lift and remove instrument panel.
2. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:

•  
  1. Ensure instrument panel fits onto guide pin correctly.
  2. Before tightening instrument panel bolts, ensure instrument panel wires are not pinched and instrument panel is not interfering with heater control cable.

The first set is for my 90-93 accord.



The second set is for 93-96 prelude. Hopefully it helps.

 

It was finally cold enough(re:~60°F, Cali lyfe) to warrant turning ye old heater on. After a few moments of pleasantness warming the cockles of my heart, the windshield became fogged over and the sweet smell of propylene glycol filled the cabin...



Can't find the useless Chiltons manual, and I have been gargoyling for the correct procedure on how to disarm the SRS system so I don't pop the airbags. I've read anywhere that simply disconnecting the battery for 3mins will do the job, to needing elaborate scanners/programmers and a Wicca Coven to safely disarm the system.

Can anyone confirm what needs to be done to safely disarm the system on a '95 EX Accord?

holmesnmanny that offer with the beer still stand? Or did that only apply for the rear mount?

 

Disconnect the battery and hit the brake pedal a few times to be sure to get rid of any residual power.

I finally did my very own about three weeks ago. On my generation it really wasn't as hard as I thought. I did have to pull the dash but I didn't disconnect the steering column like the manual suggested. I was able to lift the dash over the column after removing the steering wheel and a couple of the switches which only required removing about 5 screws in total that aren't hard to remove at all. However, I didn't have an air bag so I don't know how much work that will entail. I also had to remove the throttle body to get to the hoses that run back there. It would be wise to replace both hoses assuming yours haven't been replaced and you will need a razor to cut a slit in the old hoses before just pulling/prying them off. One goes to the pipe and on my gen it's not easy to get to and get access to, I actually had pulled my axle at the same time so I already had room to it.

However, if you want me to swing by and help I might have time on Monday. Perhaps beer and some dinner and we'll call it even.

 

Disconnect the battery. 20 mins minimum is sufficient time. The SRS modules have capacitors so that they can still deploy even if battery power is lost. Pay attention to the connectors. If you break them while disconnecting them you may get an SRS code. Make sure you plug the red connectors into the yellow airbag connectors when they are unplugged. Place the airbags face up so's as to avoid accidental deployment.
The driver side air bag is held in by Torx bolts.

 

Damnit, now I'm not sure if the core went bust. This morning the heater was on again and no smell or hint of steam:flips desk:

 

When mine started going it was come and go. If you don't lose any coolant in the overflow bottle it's probably not leaking. Mine lost about an inch every day at its worst. That's how I figured it out after never seeing any leaks.

The ethylene glycol in that stuff is really toxic. I was inhaling that stuff for like two years before I finally fixed it. I'm actually feeling a lot better the last month or so with it fixed. My back used to hurt sometimes. I was poisoning myself.

 

The cross beam has two hidden bolts that are behind wiring harnesses. Then it will come out easy. You must loosen the AC box to remove the heater core assembly. Then remove the clips that are all around the top potion of the heater core housing. That should be all you need to know.
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This thread was made in 2011. Rumor is the guy is still trying to take his heater core out.

Thank god you responded.......

*** On a side note i wonder why holmesnmanny was banned. That cuck was the most annoying dude on this board.***

 

for the record, the heater core did eventually get replaced! And then I was chasing a coolant into oil problem and replaced the head gasket then replaced the head and at that point could only deem the block junk. Sold it to a junkyard and bought a 2005 accord and that got me by for about 8 years and then last year switched to a ram truck so the heater core Honda was fixed and junked.