I have a d15b7 block with a d16y8 head/manifold/etc

I just read somewhere about the knock sensor. I didn't have a hole to install or clip it on the b7 block so I left it out... How big of an issue is this and will I need to drill and tap a hole and have this working.

I also believe my motor/ecu combo is from a obd2 automatic d16y8. I know this because there is some custom nonsense wiring going on that I can't quite put my finger on.
There is three wires that run behind the intake manifold to some sort of sensor but they are not in a plug just individual. One comes from inside the car as if it was custom wired from the ecu. This wire is blew. There is also a black one and a black and yellow one. As far as I can tell I do not have the correct iacv setup becase this is manual car now.

Please someone lead me in the right direction. The car is idling betweeen 1800-2000 rpms or so but at this time I know I have air in my coolant.

 

You will have to run an OBD1 ECU with a jumper harness as the B7 doesnt even have a space for a knock sensor.

 

Yes there is fuel and spark. The car runs but idles between 1500-2000 rpms. When I bought the car from the guy it did this same thing. It sucks because I don't have his number to call and ask what all is custom. I know there is discretions between iacv on these y8 motors.

As far as I know my car is manual using an automatic y8 ecu/head/manifold with a d15b7 block and I didn't wire in the knock sensor.

 

When plugging the black and yellow wire into any of the pins on the sensor on the back of the manifold it makes the idle jump to idk alot because I always have cut the car right back off. I noticed as well with the car in acc this wire will spark if it touches metal so it is a live wire.

 

I'm assuming the car is OBD2? Not sure if you can but on B series for LSVTEC people do this


Using a 10.9 mm drill bit, opened up the hole on the bracket and the block. Then carefully tap the hole with a 12 mm x 1.25 thread pitch tap. Be sure to clean up the shavings and then screw the knock sensor. This will keep your ECU from throwing any codes.

 

That does look nice and stock for the knock sensor. Wish I had done this with the motor pulled out of the car.

 

just get a obd2 -obd1 jumper run a chipped p28 with knock bypassed in the tune... or else your minime is pointless as a stock vtec ecu will not crack vtec with out signal from knock/VPS/VS...

 

What is the existing Existing Bolt Size / Thread Pitch that was drilled out - M10 x 1.25 ?