Driving home and I'm a block away from my house when my Battery Light turns on and I lose power steering. "Okay, alternator's prolly going out. Prolly time to change it."

...or so I thought...

Car cranks up just fine. I take a flash light, shine it into the bay and i notice NO BELTS ARE MOVING =X My A/C belt was also not attached to the pulley; not sure if that's because of this problem, or something else though. Anyways, the alternator belt was not moving, power steering belt wasn't moving and the battery light is one.

I'm guessing that the pulley on the block is borked some how, but what else should i check? It was kind of dark last night so i couldn't confirm, but i thought i saw a pulley wheel slightly tilted...

If it is... whatever is on the block pulling the belts... that needs to be repair/replaced, is something that can be done w/o taking the engine or bottom end? Anything else i should check while im looking?

Thanks again guys, ya'll always point me in the right direction in helping me diagnose my car

 

seems like your crank pulley decided to separate itself.

 

Ditto that^^^

I would look closely at the crank pulley(s), to see if they are turning and belts are slipping there or if the pulleys themselves are not turning.

If the pulleys are not turning the dampener rubber has separated from the steel pulleys, you will need a new crank pulley.

What is the MM&Y of your car?

This is from a 94 Integra GS-R... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

At about $200+ for a new OEM one I would go to a PicknPull and pull one, where are you located?94

 

97 LS. Socal.

Is it difficult to do? The car is currently on the lawn waiting till my finals are over until so i can dedicate time to it lol

 

the hardest part will be getting hte crank pulley bolt off if you dont have hte proper tools

 

Ditto that^^^, the bolt can be a real cow.

I am also not sure if you have the room to pull the pulley off the crank shaft without pulling the engine, someone else will have to chime in on that.

So depending on how far south in "Socal" you are, there are 20 G3s within 200 miles of Fresno, all north and west of Fresno PicknPulls, including the Fresno location... http://www.picknpull.com/check_inven...a&Distance=200

Maybe you can get lucky and find one that still has a motor. 94

 

you can take the pulley off with the engine in the car. i did it the other week

 

Yeah you can take it off without pulling the engine. 19mm with cheater bar or something to extend your wrench for more torque. I have to do it again to see why its wobbling.

 

Cool thanks guys.

I got time to check today and the crank pulley is pretty loose. Upon checking, we cranked the car and the bolt spins, but the pulley doesn't, so we were guessing that the crank-to-pulley (?) part was just warn out and not being caught. Either way, need to figure out how to remove it and find another.

Would I have to check the timing belt or the timing of the car? When trying to loosen the bolt, turning it seemed to turn the crank a bit; that doesn't harm anything right?

Thanks again guys. Time to read up on more DIYs and source a new crank pulley

 

No turning the crank does not hurt anything.

To stop the engine from spinning you need to get someone to put it in 5th gear and hold the brakes (and dont let off the brakes) keep holding them cuz you'll lose power brakes if you pump it again and again then its really hard to brake. Then get your biggest breaker bar or wrench with cheater bar to extend the wrench for more torque. Lefty loosy.

 

The timing belt gear, #15 would have to also have be spinning on crank for there to be any damage, that is not going to happen unless key, #19 has sheered off... http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...ystemcomp=List All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal 94

 

Welps. Almost a month and after finally getting time to work on it, I revive the thread!

Took a few days trying to get the bolt out... didn't work by hand because my passenger side brake line was leaking so holding-the-brake method didn't help as planned. Couple weeks passed due to work, but got back to it today finally. Combination of Liquid Wrench and an impact w/ 19mm+5 inch extension got the bolt out!

Only problem is, i kinda see how the pulley was able to fall out. Pictures as follows

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v5...odius/Integra/

Looks like the end of the crankshaft is sheered (right word for this?) so the key wont stay in place. Also the seals are kinda blown, so that may cause to be an issue still. The pulley, i'm not too sure about, but it looked fine. The center is normally smooth right?

Anyways, i would guess that this is something that is not easily replaceable or fixed. Probably a new engine or a rebuild is in the works right guys?

EDIT - dont mind the hello kitty lol

 

The whole crank needs to be replaced

 

Sadly, your key kinda shredded your key hole.

 

Thats what i thought. =(

Things that i need to figure out now then...
- does this warrent a full rebuild? or a full on swap?
- if not a full one, just a bottom end rebuild?
- im also betting its something that i cant do w/o taking the engine out of the bay =(
- anyone in socal know of a good place to take the 'teg to so i can get this fixed?

-sigh- im really starting to hate the previous owner of the car.

Probbably going to close the discussion once i figure out what case of action i need to take. Thank god i have a job now so i can afford a fix.

Thanks again guys.

 

Somebody may be able to weld it up. That should be possible with the engine in-place, and should be very cheap compared to any alternatives.

The gouged edge would be carefully filled with weld, then hand-machined (done yourself) with small files and maybe a Dremel, until the key just fits. The heat from welding will wreck the oil-seal, so buy a new one first.

It's a great opportunity to develop your machining skills.

 

Yea I would have a skilled welder try and run a bead of weld on it and run only your alternator pully belt so that it won't too much strain on it, and if its all good put the Powersteering and Ac belt on too





Don't rebuild, a used LS short block would be cheaper

 

^^^^Thats pretty wild. After its welded you should be able to run ALL of your accessory belts. Welds are pretty strong if properly done.

 

That was my first thought, weld it, have it grinded down to spec. It will hold.

 

wow... i wasnt sure if that was a good idea... but it looks like it would be fine.

The inside of the crankpulley is slotted right? Mine's currently smooth... possibly from the crank rotating on the pulley even though it wasnt for too long. Either way, this seems like it would be a nice quick-durable fix until i can pull enough to go for a good swap or something.

Also, Tha_liks, you crazy lol