I know this seems retarded that I don't have a build thread for my EF but I figured I might as well start one for my brother alex since he'll become a member here soon.


GOALS:
stage 1: NA = JDM B20B rebuild = 155whp & 145tq 7500rpms
stage 2: Boost = 300whp & 270tq @ 10psi



Alex bought this DA for $1800 in NC in 2008.
Pretty clean but had 210K on it.
I don't like DA's but for the price I gave him my approval on this solid purchase.

8-2010

The stock motor only lasted him 2 years before a rod bolt back-out and cause the motor to sieze.


Alex wanted a JDM B16a1 swap cause he wanted a vtec valve cover.
So i tricked him and told him to give me $900 for a swap.

In the garage waiting for the swap






Weeks later the motor arrived and I let him open it up.
He was pissed that his big brother took his money and bought a JDM B20B for $700 shipped. He didn't get it at all.













Alex said the b20 cover is ugly and CRV motors sucks.
I told him a B20 is a LS on steriods because stock for stock a B20+b16 tranny would kill a b16+b16 tranny from 0-110mph.

...he didn't get it & I chuckled while telling him to just let me finish the swap before me makes up his mind.


I traded his LS cable tranny for my buddies JDM b16 S1 tranny + $200.

At this point the DA had:
- jdm b20b 8.8cr
- jdm b16 s1 tranny (4.4fd FTW !)
- exedy clutch
- intake
- OEM header
- OEM cat and exhaust with n1 style canister
- stock suspension
- stock 14" rims with 195/55/14 all seasonal tires

Before I let him drive it I took him out on the roads to Stagecoach Road in Afton and showed him why I did what I did. Witht his tranny it didn't matter if we were going up hill, down hill, slow or fast corners, the car was reborn!.

Nonetheless he was in complete awe... Alex had no idea what gearing could do to a motor. (side note, now he knows why h2b are quick)

After the sprited drive, handed him the key with a full tank of gas and told him to drive slow and keep highway rpms under 3500 just to see what kind of milage it would yeild.

First tank of gas only yeild 290 miles per full tank (mix city/hwy)
After that first thank he's consistanly gotten 260-270 miles per tank with his heavy foot.

For the almost the next 6 months he wouldn't shut up about how many cars he race, where and how it turned out. He loved it and thanked me (pretty rare).

ocassionally he would call me up if the motor made some funny sound or doing oil changes and stuff. But the B20 held up well.

I warned him that because the S1 tranny has a 4.4fd he needs to keep his highway rpm down cause going 70mph he was at 4800rpms.
It's certainly not good for the obd0 distributor or the life of the rings/bearings. In order to stay at 3500rpms on highway that meant he would have to get use to driving 55-57mph and he wanted nothing to do with that.

9-24-2011
Sure enough after coming home from the honda meet, his motor started making a rod knock and I knew instanly it was time for a rebuild or worse a new motor.

After I fixed my overheating issue on the my recently finished turbocharged EF HB GSR I began to tear down his motor.

10-4-2011
This past weekend I removed the B20, tore it down to inspect the bearings and crank. Alex dropped of the block, flywheel, acl bearings & rod bolts at the machine shop so hopefully we get it back in about 1 week to begin putting it all back together.


I'll list the plans later this week.

 

Pictures from Sat 10-3-2011



























crank still looks good.
Pictures as I turn the crank










#3 rod bearing... was noticable thinner than the other rod bearings.
Also other rod bearings were still silver, this was was cooked pretty well.














yesterday Alex dropped off the head, block, arp rod bolts, acl race bearings (mains & rods), exedy flywheel, rods to get some machine work done.

I still have yet to decide how much to shave the head by
Ideally I'd like to get it to 10.1 but that that required 0.0065..
Maybe we might just go with 9.5 by milling head by 0.005

 

New ebay tri-y header came in last week...... $168 shipped
bang for buck? yezz-sir !


















10-20-2011


Block cam back from machine shop
fresh hone... I didn't opt to have the outside cleaned cause it was already clean when it came in last year from japan.














got a exedy 9.4lbs flywheel from $80 & cost $20 to resurface it.




some ebay goodies.....just for fun



ebay cam gears for $55 shipped...



arp head studs
ebay short shifter and shift ****
npr 84mm rings




finally the head got back from the machine shop
milled .055











The rods came back today.
The stock pistons look mint too.
They did a great job and only cost $44











delta 272 cams
.. specs are right inbetween 62403 & 62404....
$160 shipped...
talk about bang for buck...
these will make power to 7800-8K










I got the bearings, rods & pistons all measured out and installed.
Pictures should be up by tomorrow.

 

Rocketmotorsports snap fit valve springs $150
These work with stock retainers and good for 9K rpms....

Talk about bang for buck.
No more need to get crower valvesprings & have to pay for crower retainers.














Delta 272 cams
b20 head shaved .055 to bring cr to 9.97cr
which me luck on piston to valve clearence.... lol

 

Just got done degreeing the motor yesterday.


Good news and bad news.


Bad news:
i forgot that i milled the head so much i couldn't use the stock plastic head cover which goes behind the cam gears.
So i can't have the clean OEM "look" which i wanted...


Good news:
My buddy Tou dialed in the cams at intake -4.5 degrees and exhaust 0.

Delta said BOTH intake/exhaust cams duration was 205 @ .050" lift
but based on our measurements they were more like 214°/220° (which is similar to a 62403.

That's not too bad


USDM B20B (’97-’98):
Duration @ .010: 265°/267°
Duration @ .050: 194°/196°
Lift: .394"/.380"

Crower 62402
Duration @ .010: 290°/296°
Duration @ .050: 203°/208°
Lift: .417"/.399"

Crower 62403
Duration@ .010: 295°/295°
Duration @ .050: 221°/220°
Lift: .422"/.411"

Crower 62404
Duration @ .010:308°/303°
Duration @ .050: 226°/224°
Lift: .445"/.434"
http://www.crower.com/media/pdf/2008b/98-104.pdf





so we'll see how much power she puts down.

 

i played my b16 with LS trans against the LS with b16 trans for years and always won that battle. I know B20 is a different beast, but i'm sure this built motor will be a whole different can of whoop ***. nice to see the work go in. Good luck.

 

soon as i started reading this thread it reminded me so much of how me and my brother are lol. He is doing pretty much the same build...ls with delta 272's, b16 trans tri y header blox intake manifold. I'll deff. be keeping a eye on this!

 

one of the local mnhondas.com members currently has a LS with itr pistons and 62403 cams (0/0 non degreed), tuned on e85 and made 161whp & 140tq.... so i'm really hoping we get close to those numbers since this is a 2.0... lol

 

ya i dont think u should have a prob. Have you guys considered going with a aftermarket intake manifold?

 

yeah the guy with the 403 cams is parting out his motor and is selling me his blox IM with gsr IM...(that's how i knew about his setup) aha

only $100.00 so not bad at all.

I'm sure that IM will help with the higher flowing head and lift of cams.

 

build looks awesome let me know how it runs when all said and done. goodluck guys

 

nice

 

Nice build and nice of u 2 do all this 4 your brother dude. Also why is it bad for a obd0 dizzy and bearings when somebody has a shorter gear tranny or b16a tranny? I'm still new in this honda game. Thanks

 

i hope you had that crank micropolished and checked out thoroughly for wear and tear from the machine shop

 

actually we got a new crank cause when i took the pictures I didn't inspect well.
So a had a spare crank which is sent get polished at the machine shop.



UPDATE: 1-24-2011
Everything is back in the DA
we started it up and let the rings, head gasket & valve seals seat in.

Compression test results 215psi across the board on a cold/warmish motor !

Tomorrow it will be slightly street tuned by jordan of jordantuned.com (my best friend of 8yrs) then it's off do the dyno....


Stay tuned.

 

sweet keep us updated! you should do a video of a quick pull

 

i should have time to record dyno, walk around of 272 delta cam idel & may do a pull...
we'll see

 

dyno charts will be us soon...

 

in for this!

 

Looks fun!

 

First of all I wanted to give thanks to the following people:

Tou - P.R.E
Keep in mind I only have 6 people who I completely trust with my friendship, cars & money and Tou is one of them. I’ve known him & his younger brothers since Jr. High. Thanks for walking me through this engine build and sharing your knowledge.

Jordan – Jordantuned.com
Of also one of the 6 friends who I trust & care about. I’ve known for 8yrs. He’s always has my back making sure I don’t chew off more than I can handle when it comes to Hondas.

Pat – R.D.R
Same as above, one of the guys that I met 8yrs ago which we just seemed to connect well.
He’s always coached me along the way just like tou & Jordan. Pat is probably the best “teacher” I now when it comes to drawing things out & explaining how things works in simple terms. I’m still waiting for him to jump back in the game when he’s ready.

Chris & MAP
Provided the best rock bottom pricing and had flexible dyno hours.
This helped us greatly with the our simple B20 rebuild.

Most importantly that the does care about the local honda guys as he did ask good questions & chatted with the guys who came out to watch.




This is my brother, Alex’s motor car which was rebuilt after his jdm b20b I swapped in spun a bearing only after 8 months of heavy abuse from Alex. I use to have a build thread on mnhondas but I didn’t see any benefit to it due to fear of theft.

Nonetheless, I still wanted to show what can be accomplished with simple parts and knowledge. Before you ask my why I didn’t do LSV, I’ll just say because my little brother doesn’t deserve it yet. He needs to learn to appreciate how to make power before I just hand it over to him.

The plan was 2stage build:
1st stage is B20 rebuild with cams 155-160whp
2nd stage will be small turbo to hit 270-280whp = coming end of 2012




Here is the break down of general parts used:


JDM B20B 8.8:1cr (84x89)
ACL race bearings mains & rods ***MAP***
ARP rod bolts *** MAP***
ARP head studs *** MAP***

JDM B20B P75 head
Milled head - P.R.E spec to raise compression from 8.8 to 9.7cr
RDR “Pat” race spec 5 angle valve job (no porting)
Delta 272 cams
Rocketmotorsports spark plugs
Rocketmotorsports snap-fit valve springs
Stock seats & retainers
Ebay cam gears
Blox intake manifold & B18a1 58mm throttle body
Ebay Tri-Y replica header “small tube” 2.5” collector
2.20” crush bent exhaust piping





Baseline pull vs. last pull
Jordan came over 9pm Wednesday to provide base map & 20mins of street tuning. We put it through a few hours of driving & made sure he engine sealed up well 215psi across the board.


Alex’s B20b vs. jdm B16a2 (decent header, intake, exhaust & tuned)
This is why I dislike b16 for NA. Most people pay $1900-2200 for a jdm b16 swap + money for bolt ons and still doesn't have a usable powerband. IMHO I'd only build a B16a NA as a practice car lapping/drag or teaching my sons how to drive cause those suckers never seem to die or hardly spin bearings.


Alex’s B20b vs. my b18c1 gsr
This is back during 2009 MAP dyno day in the summer.
GSR with skunk2 IM, gsr tb, hondata gasket, stock header, 60mm rsr full exhast. Back when we swapped in the BONE STOCK B20B (no header) 6500rpm redline, Alex's DA B20 2550lbs still killed my EF Si GSR 2300lbs in any racing conditon up to about 80-85mph in 4th. I know this new motor would certainly kill most GSR swaped civic up to 100mph.



The final results speak for themselves.
You don't need a lot of money or fancy parts to make good power.
Don't chase other people, do reasearch, ask good questions and be realistic about what you can do financially & I promise MAP will help you out with best pricing on parts.





I'm no expert or not saying this is the only way to build it.
I'm just sharing you what we've done and you can take what you want from it.

I'm very pleased with the results & we were able to stay within budget.
This should be the standard of what budget NA b-nonvtec motors build should comprise of. Too many times I see people waste money on the wrong parts.

Considering b20b dyno at 128-130whp and 120tq
We spent
$160 on cams
$75 cam gears
$165 valvesprings
$170 header
$80 used block intake manifold

$650 in aftermarket parts for gains 25whp gains and 10-12tq is money well spent.

 

very impressed man! glad to see you guys didn't waste your money on a b16!

 

my spare b16 will be my practice lapping motor.
so i can dial in my car or improve my driving skills.

those little motors are pretty sold even if they don't make killer power.

 

not bad at all

 

thanks...

the cams are for sale too...
bigger cams on the way