ECU code 740..TQ lockup circuit open...
Hi guys, just drug home my first Accord clunker and found tq lockup open code and have no clue as what to look for. Plan to check whatever fuse powers that circuit and then look and see if something is unplugged at the tranny. Could the lockup cause problems that could be solved by unplugging it at the tranny. The previous owner did minimal maintenance as every light is on, check engine, SRS, and abs. Oh, it is a 96 EX with a VTec. Any opinions on what to check for .......thanks.....
I would find out why the SRS is non functional first. ABS may simply be throwing a bad wheel sensor code. Brake light may just be low fluid level/time for new pads.
Pull all the codes and list them, knock them out in a logical fashion. Often a single issue can cause multiple codes to appear. A bad/loose/missing ground will have you chasing all over the engine bay for ghosts and gremlins.
Ok, when I got the clunker home and pulled the codes, ALL lights were on, had cylinder misfire, 1 and 2 codes, and 740. Changed plugs and wires, found ABS tank completely empty. Filled tank up full. reset ECM. Fired it up, heard ABS motor buzz and shut off, and had NO dash warning lights. Drove car, and had a cell code come in. Did not seem shift correctly so assume 740 came back in. Previous owner stated car had an oil leak, pulled it up on the rack and observed what appears to be tranny fluid dripping. Have not even checked level. Cleaned complete underside with degreaser last nite before coming in. Plans are to check tranny level, top off if needed, drive car and see if tranny fluid IS coming from drivers side CV axle seal as appeared last nite. Previous owner never mentioned adding tranny fluid and I could not tell from all the oil if it was both. I am sure the car has been driven alot in this condition and read where may need to pull lock up solenoid and check for screen debris as lock up facing may be disintegrating. Can you tell me how to identify the lock up solenoid and remove it for inspection....
Checked fluid level in tranny and it was very low. Drained and refilled with new fluid. Cleared all cel codes. Drove for a bit and car still shutters between 1500 -2000 rpm. Checked codes and had po1300, po301, po302. These are cylinder misfires even after I replaced wires, plugs, cap and rotor. What else would cause cylinder misfires......burnt valves possible on the two cylinders......will perform a compression test next....unless I learn of some other possible culprit.....
Ha Ha, never would have thunk it, but cleaning out the EGR ports did the trick. Assumed ports 1 and 2 would be the ones blocked but No. 1 was open partially. Cleaned everything out and no more stumble or codes. Great.....ok oil leaks and master cylinder swap next on the list.....
Trending Topics
Awesome. It's rare to see someone take initiative and clear up the messes of a PO. The only thing I would be worried about is why the ABS tank was empty. Was it new and the PO just never filled it? Keep tabs on that, maybe it was just something goofy the PO did, maybe there is a leak in the system somewhere.
NO , Mad Mike , the tank was not new. I , too, suspected the tank had leaked and was/am looking for a leak somewhere. Nothing has surfaced yet. Tonite I replaced the master cylinder and noticed fluid was/had been leaking down below the master on the booster. Can ABS tank fluid leak out of a leaking master cylinder? The master was pretty bad.......you had to keeping pumping it at a traffic light or it would just go right on down to the floor and the car would creep forward.
So the PO was driving the car daily with; no windshield wipers, rain x only, bad master cylinder.....limited braking; big leak in transaxle seal....almost no fluid in auto tranny, and almost every dash lite on. Taking a spin around the block tonite I noticed the rpm gauge had stopped working. The speedometer was stuck at 20 mph, but the odometer was working. Tried the cruse control and it worked......so just figure the circuit board was the problem instead of the VSS.
As I got closer to home the radio stopped working and I could tell I was losing voltage, but no ALT light was on. When home checked voltage at battery withe car running and found only 8.77 volts. Switched car off and went in for a bit. When I returned found the inside battery dash light on , but dimmly. Checked fuses all good , popped in a fresh battery and car fired right up. Checked voltage and only had 11.89 volts......so pulled alternator and plan to have it tested/replaced tomorrow. Not sure if it was working when I bought it or it just pooped out today. The joy of resurrecting an old clunker has filled my plate........I am blessed.
So the PO was driving the car daily with; no windshield wipers, rain x only, bad master cylinder.....limited braking; big leak in transaxle seal....almost no fluid in auto tranny, and almost every dash lite on. Taking a spin around the block tonite I noticed the rpm gauge had stopped working. The speedometer was stuck at 20 mph, but the odometer was working. Tried the cruse control and it worked......so just figure the circuit board was the problem instead of the VSS.
As I got closer to home the radio stopped working and I could tell I was losing voltage, but no ALT light was on. When home checked voltage at battery withe car running and found only 8.77 volts. Switched car off and went in for a bit. When I returned found the inside battery dash light on , but dimmly. Checked fuses all good , popped in a fresh battery and car fired right up. Checked voltage and only had 11.89 volts......so pulled alternator and plan to have it tested/replaced tomorrow. Not sure if it was working when I bought it or it just pooped out today. The joy of resurrecting an old clunker has filled my plate........I am blessed.
NO , Mad Mike , the tank was not new. I , too, suspected the tank had leaked and was/am looking for a leak somewhere. Nothing has surfaced yet. Tonite I replaced the master cylinder and noticed fluid was/had been leaking down below the master on the booster. Can ABS tank fluid leak out of a leaking master cylinder?
I would think the ABS pump does not allow backfeeding to the MC, but I could be wrong.
Possibly, the ABS has a redundant safety default setting detecting when the fluid is low in the MC to activate the brake light warning, ABS has the capability to backfeed the MC reservoir. Kind of like an Accusump system on race engines. Oh and dibs if anyone copies that most awesome idea of mine, I want royalties and such.
But that question would need to be answered by a Honda technician. Maybe fire off a PM to phootbag.
HAH! Keep fighting the good fight!
Ha Ha, never would have thunk it, but cleaning out the EGR ports did the trick. Assumed ports 1 and 2 would be the ones blocked but No. 1 was open partially. Cleaned everything out and no more stumble or codes. Great.....ok oil leaks and master cylinder swap next on the list.....
good to hear.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BigMig
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
1
May 10, 2003 06:01 PM
type Gendy
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
1
Apr 21, 2003 04:48 PM





