My DD DC2R still has the stock engagement (5800rpm) and it is too high as the kick (sound and feel )is way too strong. Im looking at getting it tuned with Hondata S300 after my new set of headers arrive (RMF). Other than that my only mods are a 2.5" Fujitsubu exhaust and Comptech Icebox. From the tune, i am looking at getting a bit more torque through the midrange, which i think would be helped if VTEC was set lower.

Just curious to see what people's *optimal* VTEC enagement is set to after a tune and simple and similar bolt on mods (I/H/E etc), so i know what to expect/ look forward too because the VTEC can definetly be set lower, and if you noticed an increase in mid-range torque, and yes i realise each application is different.

On a side note, i have a GSR with similar mods and the VTEC is set to 3800...and the mid range torque is VERY noticeable compared to what it was before the tune. Also has a very smooth curve with no dips I know the ITR will not be as low due to the bigger cams

THanks!

 

53 views and no replies.... must be a noob question!

 

Best way to tell is on the dyno..mine is set at 5200 rpm..its a stock K20 w/ k-pro,rbc +IHE...

 

4500 goodness to stay on the cam all the time on road track.. just like realtime set up. But I should disclose other then a weekend drive to pick up oil or other replacement stuff the car is stored and only used for track duty.

 

Which mods? And do you feel the lower VTEC is optimal for DD?

 

smh....mines at 6800 rpm

 

You really don't want to set you vtec too low! 3,800 rpm would be way too low for a R if that's what you thinking. I understand that your looking for mid range and that on your gsr have 2 butterflies and i asume that it was your first butterfly set @ 3,800 rpm. From what I know and experience on setting vtec in lower rpm is that really I was losing power top end. I had a ls vtec (p30 piston, b16 head with itr valvetain and cams, s2 cam gears, i/h/e) that was set @ 4,300 rpm, redline @ 8,500 rpm and honestly it wasn't to bad but when I drove on the highway I was always in vtec (gas hog). When I dyno the car, I was making power up till 7,800 rpm then dropping down. I asked the tuner if I was to change vtec around 4,800 rpm would it help out and yes it did. Once I change that and retuned it. I was making power up till 8,200 rpm. You think that setting vtec in lower rpm would help out in the mid range but really its makes the motor work harder and in my cause I lost power. He said you can't have best of both worlds and you will have you sacrifice sometimes. I wanted my setup for top end so I went with 4-1 header but for mid range, 4-2-1 would probably be better. Im sure I had a more aggressive camshaft it would of made more power all the way through redline but I was on a tight budget. All around it really comes down to your setup. If your building a track car then setting vtec lower is probably better but for drag would be the opposite. If i was to ever change vtec on my R , probably be with in 4,800-5,500 rpm. Right now its stock so vtec is @ 5,800 like yours. Best way to find out is when you dyno it so you can tell if your making or losing power. I hope this helps. GL

 

re-read what I wrote, my car is not a daily driver, on the highway it cruises around 80 just below vtec 80mph and higher it will kick in, but then you just slow down to drop out of it to save gas. I only drive the car to track events and thats about it.. sometimes on the weekend.

As stated by others too low is no good, but 4500 would be about as low as I would go.

 

My GSR has a skunk 2 manifold so no more butterflies. It also makes power to 7800rpm (117kW). Im not looking at anything too low for the R, in fact i was thinking VTEC around 5000rpm would suit my driving nicely.

Thanks for your input

 

Stage 2 cams by any chance?

 

Looking around the 4800-5000 mark to suit my needs. I realise lower may not be possible due to the ITR cams.

Thanks!

 

hondata s300 allows you to tune with a vtec window. basically there's two different vtec crossover points you set and they crossover depending on load, throttle, etc. that you determine. example: crossover at 4k at WOT or 6k at a lower throttle.

with my k20 and kpro vtec is at 4300 at WOT and 5000 otherwise. the best way to determine vtec is on a dyno.

 

Ah, very good idea about the VTEC window!

Yea, once i get the cash to to get S300 i will be booking a dyno asap. I heard S300 is one of the quickest ways to tune, hence saving money on the dyno for my set up.

Did kpro take you long to tune?

 

i had someone else street tune me over the internet. took a few days working around my schedule.

www.magtuning.com

 

Online tuning? hmmmmmm. No replacement for a dyno obviously, How many revisions did it take you get it right, and how is it?

 

the original tune took about 3-4 days because i was running out and doing datalogs while i was at work lol. the re-tune only took a few hours. drives great no hiccups at all. for me this was my best option because i have noone local with a dyno or experience with honda's.

currently making 211hp 155tq with bolt on's

 

Ah fair enough then. I have a tuner who owns his own workshop including a dyno, but he doesnt do many hondas. He mainly tunes high performance applications, but don't get me wrong, he knows his ****! How easy would Hondata be for him to use do you think? I understand all he needs to do is plug the USB cable from the ECU into his laptop?

 

as long as he understands how to tune an efi system there shouldnt be any issues i would think. just make sure he understands the software.

 

Because i will be going S300 do i just need to download the SManager from:

http://www.hondata.com/downloads.html

?

 

if you buy it new from a dealer it will come with the disk. but download it now and have him play around with it if he's never done so.

 

Yea i might do that. Thanks for your advice!