Alright, so I'm preparing to boost my CRX. I have a B18A1 on B16SiR trans with welded diff. The purpose of this thread is to get as much input to do this boost right the first time. I am still stock piling parts together to do it, I'm just looking for input on where to turn for certain settings and parts to make this thing run right and keep running. The motor has about 100k on it from my understanding. Here's a list of what I have now:

GodSpeed GT35 twin scroll turbo
Tial Sport 38mm wastegate (still need spring)
HKS SSQV BOV
Precision 440cc injectors
Inline Pro turbo manifold

As of now I know I need the basics, intercooler, piping, downpipe, fuel pump, ECU etc. I'm going basic on this, aka no boost controller turbo timer etc, relying purely on ECU tuned to the wastegate spring. I want to run pure stock internals, modifying as little as possible. I want to run stock clutch axles etc again just to see what I can get from the stock motor without going overboard. I have a B18B1 I'm building from the ground up later so no worries. I'm not sure what kind of numbers the stock block can throw down so again any input is greatly appreciated. I'm not stupid I'm just looking for outside opinions to keep me from sitting on the side of the road on fire or something.

 

Damn son, ain't even got your starting problems figured out yet and already planning to boost it lol.

Well, you're not gonna be putting any boost down on that stock clutch haha. Upgrade to at least a stage 3 kit. I bought an ebay XTR stage 3 kit with 9.75 lb. flywheel for $260 shipped. Its got a shitty engagement but has taken plenty of beatings at the track, never slipped.

Next, you will need a Walbro 255 fuel pump or similar to feed those 440s, which will probably be at a decent duty cycle by the time you hit 275-300whp (about the hardest I would push that B18A). An adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a gauge would be nice too.

With that turbo, I'd start with a 6-7 lb. spring.

ARP rod bolts! Do it.

And most critical here for your stock motor to last will be the tuning. Convert to OBD1. I run neptune and I love it. Boost by gear, anti-lag, and much more.

 

...hmm?

You haven't listed any true goals, but I am assuming Drag Strip only by your transmission and too big turbo selection. One thing you should note as well is those injectors are pushing it and leave no room for future upgrades. Just buy a set once and get some 1000cc injectors - pick a brand any brand (we all have our favorites).

For a little more cost than authentic Walbro 255lph you can get a Aeromotive 340lph (they are both drop in to stock location). Again, room for future upgrades/fuel requirements (I.e. E85). A log manifold is a bad choice for bigger turbos - they will spool a little sooner but will not flow anywhere near as good as a tubular.

I think what is happening is big dreams on a stock budget. You have a lot of reading to do because your direction is way off/all over the place. What is your specific goals for this build? With just internals an LS can pull off 450whp +/- 50whp no problem reliably **with a good tune** and 250whp +/- 50whp in stock form with a good tune. Upgrading to ARP head studs is a good idea for any boosted setup. For the LS, ARP rod bolts are a good insurance policy as well; these are the weakest link on the LS engines.

 

Alright first off, the 440s are here by accident so I'm using them. This particular motor isn't going to get any major upgrades besides this. And I can always buy a smaller turbo of proper proportion if you have one to recommend. The big one is being rebuilt anyway with quality internals to handle the big power the other motor is making. Oh and SHH I'm going to get the starting problems fixed and out of the way BEFORE I boost it. I'm playing this one smart. And again I didn't want to replace the clutch because the trans sucks ***. I'm just wondering how much boost I can push on the stock clutch. I'm not racing it, just getting a feel for the whole thing. Also, I already plan on getting the Aeromotive being the car will push much more power later.

To be simple as possible and to sum all of your questions up, I know my turbo is big, what size do you recommend that still is a T3 flange? I got fmic so no worries there. I know the log won't push big hp that's why I am getting tubular LATER. I have ANOTHER motor I'm building. I'll replace head studs if necessary to run 250ish hp. Like I said I want stock internals with good power and reliability. I'll upgrade the rod bolts as recommended for your insurance policy.

I originally planned on having the ECU chipped and tuned by Crome. Reason being is I have a pro license for Crome and can tune them pretty easily.

Again this motor that's in the car is just being boosted on stock internals with head studs and rod bolts, period. So I'll get a smaller turbo that you recommend to run 250hp reliably. I'm running the 440 injectors I'll get 1000's later for the OTHER motor, which is being completely built ground up so no worries there. If completely necessary I WILL get a new clutch, really don't want to though, hate this transmission anyway.

P.S. - The car is already OBD1.

 

That turbo will work... you just will have to wait until later on for the boost to build. I am slightly gathering the sense of what you are going for. If you are looking for a minimalist approach for all this then don't put a dime more into the engine you already have in there than you have to. Stick with the stock RPM limit and keep it around 5-8 psi and call it a day. Personally, if you are building an engine I would purchase as many parts as you want to run on the "outside" of the "built" engine. I can appreaciate the fact you want to iron out and problems before you go full tilt. I also don't like wasting money (Lord knows I have done enough of that in my time).

Basically, if I was in your shoes I would build a list based on where you want to be at the end of this project and go with that. You can always upgrade later but why spend money twice? You can make the larger turbo work - and it will work just fine - it just depends on the purpose of the vehicle. You never said if you want it to be a daily driver or just a track mobile. I understand you already have the 440cc's and that will work fine for now. The factory clutch will work fine as well.

So essentially, either buy what you want in the end and install it to work the bugs out on the stock engine. OR Don't boost your vehicle in my opinion... Decide what you want and we can go from there. Regardless - what exactly are your goals for this vehicle. That can completely change the entire setup.

 

I bought the Rex to be a street legal race car, both for drag and for circuit racing. The reason I have two motors is because the one that's in the car now will simply be boosted for experimentation purposes. I've never built a boosted car before so I wanna get the feel for it first before I go all out with the B1 in the garage. Once the B1 is built later this coming year and goes in the car another Rex will be bought and the LS that's in the car now will be removed and built all motor to be put back in the new Rex later.

So if I can use this turbo now fine I will, I have no problem buying a smaller one I have places to get decent turbos without blowing the bank, so again if necessary for driveability I will do that. I don't ever plan on revving this motor out past 7500, I never do anyway even now. Like I said if I need to swap head studs or something then I will to make it last until the other motor is built. I am in a sense yes going for a minimalist approach, but still want good parts a strong motor and a reliable one. I'm willing to spend a little extra money for that. I can always sell parts later if I really need money that bad some sucker around here will jump on it. So yea that's my goal, stock as possible, retaining driveability, reliability, and still pumping out decent hp.

 

I took the "list you have now" as "this is the parts list I came up with" and not "these are the parts I already have". Haha... all that stuff will work fine. It will put down more than the stock engine can hanlde but won't have the bottom end that a smaller sized turbo would have on the street. If you are mainly concerned with WOT/upper RPM then you are good to do. The stock head, intake, bottom end, ect is all good for your horsepowe goals. Stock LS engines start hitting their brick wall, flow wise, around 450whp maybe even lower/higher depending on some factors. To get past that EXTENSIVE head work is needed. You will be better off doing a LS-V at that point. Stock VTEC heads out flow a LS with considerable modifications.

Reliability is all in the tune and the quality of parts you use.

Use what you have already, but anything extra you purchase should be with the future in mind. For insurance head studs and rod bolts are a must. I think you already have an OK idea of what you want and are just on here for moral support. Only you will know what is best for you... all I am going to list is the high dollar parts I would put on it (that I have proven to myself) and call it a day.

 

Well what would I need to do to give myself a balanced powerband? I bought that turbo to run for now until it's rebuilt later and put on the built block, just so that I wouldn't have to buy another turbo, but if that one simply won't spool up till higher rpm then I have no problem getting a decent quality smaller turbo that still fits most of the parts going on to the new motor. I was kinda hoping not to break into the stock motor but if it's going to keep the motor reliable then I have no problem doing that.

I wanted to make an LS turbo setup because for a while around here nobody does it, and everybody thinks their little vtec turbo setup is the hottest thing around here. I wanna prove them wrong. I kinda already planned on doing some pretty extensive work to the new motor anyway so head work milling all that stuff is pretty expected. My hp goals for the new block range from 475-550 hp, I'll even accept 450 on a mildly built motor. Again I want it practical enough for the street but to where it still tears em up at the track.

Being that that's for later I'm still concentrated on this motor. I mean high dollar parts brings the reliability because of the high quality I understand that. The Rex is fast as hell now stock so if I can find a balanced setup to run on this stock motor for now then I'm happy. I'll go ahead and have a mid grade staged clutch put in and I'll wind up getting the head studs and rod bolts, but for external parts, primarily the turbo, I'm still trying to think of a solution. I mean yes I could keep the turbo I have and use it, but if even it being a twin scroll and using a "log" manifold won't allow it to spool quick enough then like I said I have no problem getting another just small enough to meet those goals.

 

Would a Precision 4831 turbo be better suited for this particular setup? It's a t3/t4 hybrid that still uses everything I already planned on using, such as the t3 flange manifold, and 4bolt downpipe. It's a 375+/-hp turbo A/R .63 with a 48mm compressor wheel with a 2.6" inducer and a 2.25" exducer, 2.8" inlet 2" outlet, not twin scroll so it definitely is a much smaller turbo. It should still spool plenty quick enough and it'll deliver the power I need now. I could save the big turbo and rebuild it and just use that on the new motor. What do you think?

 

That would be right where you would want to be. Although, your setup would work fine too...

You must understand though, as I said before the log manifold will actually spool a few hundred RPM quicker than a tubular manifold. It just won't flow anywhere near a tubular... I actually have the same thing of what you are trying to build for your end goal. I love the look of people when an LS throws down good numbers. I typically use Precision, Borg Warner, or Garret turbos personally. I have been hooked on Precision billets as of late.

Also, when I say later on - I have a GT35R on my stock GSR (w/o stock Intake), and with a tubular manifold full boost doesn't kick in until around where my VTEC is set at (~4,500 RPMs). This isn't a good use of power in my opinion for a street vehicle as boost it kind of violent... Then again it is fun to roast the tires doing 50mph at will... My built LS is parked for the winter so I can't tell you where that hits full boost exactly - (Sorry, I set these vehicles up years ago so the exact details get muddled I just watch for changes that are bad.)

Sorry for being so vague - in the end it's up to you. Quite personally I would just use your current parts and get used to it. Just throwing this out there, but what if in the end you go through all this work just to find out that it's not right for you and your driving style? You have a golden opportunity to "try it before you buy it"... not only that but you can get a pretty damn good base tune for your built motor to run off of. I would throw the injectors on and drive around without the turbo setup, tune it where there is no fear of hitting boost. After your N/A map is close enough to throw a rock at it (things will change after you put the kit on it), then go through the process again. (All this is assuming you haven't tuned before.)

Essentially, you can always improve - but how do you know what to improve if you don't have a baseline? So that's my recommendation - use what you have already.

 

I mean I've driven a few boosted Hondas and I'm in love with them. Granted the ones I drove were absolute piles of **** but still, the principle remains. This Rex is my race car, nothing more nothing less, just something to make ridiculously fast that's still street legal.

And you are right in assuming I've never tuned before, I'm still learning, it's hard to learn with no teacher, story of my life. So in that reference I have to ask what you mean in particular by running the injectors and tuning it where there is no fear of hitting boost, wait nevermind got it haha. Little slow this morning. Again hard to tune sometimes with no one to show me the basics and let me fiddle from there. My civic DD has a Crome tune, of which I've been tweaking here and there, but stock parts are hard to tune with. So that'll come later once I acquire more parts for it.

So I was thinking, and thinking about what I can do to prepare this stock motor for boost. Being I have to take the oil pan off tap it for the return yada yada which will make it relatively easy to swap out rod bolts? And since I'm replacing head studs, means the head is coming off. I have a stock B1 head I'm picking up for free from this guy, think I should throw any parts in it to make things safer? Also I was wondering if a thicker head gasket could be of some use, I know they use thin copper gaskets for high compression setups, so thicker would help lower my compression some. Basically what I'm saying is what would allow me to safely run about 10psi since I'm ripping stuff apart anyway. I'm considering trying your suggestion, but again instead of a bone stock motor with injectors, this motor with the b1 head and anything else I put into it before I boost it.

On an additional note there is a guy down the way from me with a boosted hatch drag car and he said that the "log" I have will handle 600 ish hp, he said when you get into the 800hp range tubular is necessary. Also he said that running an aftermarket intake manifold and throttle body is a waste of time again unless my hp numbers will be closer to 800+. Kinda threw a red flag on those notes but again he knows boosted cars better than I do so I actually wound up getting the "log" from him. He sounds half right in a sense but again I want everything to be as efficient as possible.

I know I'm rambling, just when it comes to building cars especially mine and in the ways I have planned, I have tons and tons of questions and concerns that no one around here has any flippin idea about. So therefore I must turn here.

 

Just in case you don't know... The pistons/rods have to come out the top. You don't have to remove the crankshaft for this - the ARP rod bolts should be put in by a shop that can "resize" the rods after they are installed. Since you are right there to install the head studs properly (with the head off) you may as well do this. The factory headgasket is fine as LS's come factory with boost friendly compression (low 9's:1). If you get ahold of a B1 intake manifold that is about all I would do (but it isn't necessary). You have to remember that the engine is getting "force fed" when you are going, imagine this, the Forced Induction route... haha; so a lot of the components don't matter for lower HP vehicles.

What that guy is telling you is correct, but he must be talking about VTEC engines. The LS stuff wasn't designed for flow like the VTEC is. Again, it all depends on what turbo you are running the the "collector" and design of the manifold. You want "individual ports" at the flange - which higher quality log manifolds will have. When most people talk about log manifolds they are the cast style (from what I assume/have seen)... The tubular log manifolds have gained popularity more so in the past few years because tuning has gotten so much better. I remember when 400hp was insane... Now it's a common number for people to hit with a "mild" setup. The only thing is I can't fathom the stock Intake and such being untouched at that horsepower... (800)

 

Sorry but you don't sound like you know very much, OP. Stock clutch will slip, guaranteed. My friend was making 210whp on a boosted GSR with a new OEM clutch...it slipped here and there.

"safely run about 10 psi"...what does that translate to? 10 psi on your GT35 is completely different than 10 psi on a T25 turbo...

Do more research before doing anything else. The welded differential in your B16 transmission is not good for your "circuit racing" dream - look into a LSD (many people like MFactory).

I'd run ARP headstuds...why do you want to use ARP rod bolts again? It's not worth the pain and hassle for a stock LS...

If I were you I'd start looking through build threads where people have turbo stock LS motors, see what mods they've done and set a power goal for yourself with this motor. Many people have made 300whp on a stock LS, which is more than enough power for a street car

Also get a good tune, don't skimp out.

 

No I can say I didn't know that. I knew I didn't have to remove the crank but I was assuming I could swap out the rod bolts one by one underneath the car with the oil pan off. Now why does someone have to "resize" the rods? I guess it isn't as simple as swapping the bolts? Lol. And I will get a stock replacement head gasket.

sde - The only reason I have a reason to believe a stock clutch would not slip under a lower boost application is because of the resistance of the entire setup. The car weighs less than a ton, and has a tighter ratio transmission under it, therefore the load between the engine and transmission systems isn't as high as if it were a 2500lb car with a longer ratio gearset. But for reasons relating to practicality, I'll install a new staged clutch.
Also, apparently you don't understand what it means to "safely" run 10psi on a car. I don't care about running 10 psi on two different turbos I'm well aware of the differences between the geometries of different sized turbos. I say "safely run 10 psi" meaning running 10 psi on this particular motor to where it operates as it should with minimal stresses. Meaning if I happen to push it a few times nothing will blow out on me. And for some reason you think I'm keeping the welded b16 trans, probly the dumbest thing anyone has ever said. Everyone knows a welded diff is ONLY good for a drag car, nothing else. I already have another transmission that is going to be rebuilt with straight cut gears, narrower gear sets, and a quaife or Mfactory LSD. The only thread I found with people running stock ls turbos is about ... 1100 pages long, so sifting through all those posts to find the most practical setup to base myself off of would coincidentally take a while. But I do have a good idea where to start, Haterade has been helping me with that.
Finally, 300whp on how stock of an LS? I'm sure they're not running 100% stock internals, so you should be a little more clear about what is necessary to run 300hp on a "stock" ls.
P.S. Trust me, I know not to skimp out on tunes, I do know that much. Sorry to disappoint you.

 

Swapping the ARP rod bolts was just a one by one job for me. Curious also about the resize info, Neva. Post up before you get banned ha!

Glad to hear you're upgrading that clutch, op. My little bro tried his luck on his stock clutch and it slipped on the maiden voyage. (boosted LSV on low psi)

With that Godspeed snail, I have no doubt (provided you build an efficient charge system) you'll make over 300 to the wheels at 10lbs. I would stick with it.

 

Hope Neva doesn't get banned he's been more help than anybody right now, no offense. P.S. what's op mean? Lol. And define efficient charge system. I'm hoping to make 300whp without much internal work at all. I already have a 10psi wastegate spring so I mean...there's that out of the way haha.

I'm still trying to find out what exactly I'll need to run 300whp on this motor, again granted I don't tear in to the internals much if any. Now how did you swap your rod bolts out?

 

As with everything - there is a right way and a wrong way. When the ARP bolts are pressed in they have a high probability of distorting the big end of the connecting rod. This is due to the nature of them being "press fit" and the bearing clearances being in the thousandths. Now don't get me wrong - people do it and don't have any problems, and you can measure to see if your rod ends up getting distorted or not after install - but is it worth the risk to you? Now if we were talking Domestic's - there is a company called "Katech" that makes rod bolts that aren't supposed to distort when installed.

The ARP's should be 8mm where the stock LS rod bolt should be 7mm (same as D-series). I never said you HAD to have them - just that it's a good insurance policy. The next thing to follow the weak rod bolts on a LS would be the rocker design. The only way to cure that problem is by going with a VTEC head.

"MadScientistGuy" is correct - while 10psi on one turbo may not be the same as another when it comes to CFM - the pressure on the engine also can make a difference. Haha... there is a eHow on this...

http://www.ehow.com/how_4436563_pick...rger-size.html

Also, like you said - there are a LOT of factors into how a clutch will hold up: tire grip being the biggest one, how much mass is needed to be moved (load on clutch), engagement style, condition of clutch, leaks, driving style, ect... I am running a stock style EXEDY clutch in my 400+hp vehicle without failure yet (20k+ miles).

You could make 1,000hp on a stock engine if you wanted to. It may only last 2.564 seconds, but hey - you had a 1,000hp bone stock engine! The whole key to all of this discussion was a reliable, cost effective, as close to stock setup. As I clearly stated before - you can meet your goals without touching the engine. People boost these up to 15psi+ on stock internals (so they claim in the LS-T thread), how long do they last? Well that has more to do with how they drive, the tune, (starting to sound familiar?), ect...

On a side note... people are using OEM head gaskets for 50lbs boost setups without failure. (Obviously, ringing the block would be ideal.)

 

Get your head out of your ***. Take you too long to go through a thread? Let me just spoon feed you everything you need to know.

Stock internals. I'd post a dyno but I'm on my phone.

Your "10 psi" arguement still makes no sense. 10psi on a huge turbo will probably blow your motor, while 10psi on a T25 will net you a little over 200whp and be safe with a tune.

If you want help don't flame the people helping you

 

So again, make a clear whp goal on your stock motor and then decide how you'll get there. Don't set "10 psi" as your goal

 

Now that is an interesting point Neva. I wasn't aware of the rod bolts having to be pressed in. That's a new one in my book. So say if I were to install the rod bolts in myself, how exactly would I be able to check for rod distortion?

See I know the key to making this particular engine handle 10psi, no matter what size the turbo, the CFM is the same, only the characteristics of it changes between turbos, is to beef specific weak points of the block to handle the increased stress. Being that this engine has never been boosted, and I've never built one, I do NOT know which particular parts to beef up. I mean besides the given, head studs. I mean a buddy of mine has a dc2 chassis with a boosted ls in it and for a short time "had his wastegate hooked up incorrectly" so he kept building boost? He said a few times he'd hit 13psi before he'd shift, the higher he revved, the more boost he got. But the principle is he had hit 13 psi several times and never harmed his motor, at least not that I know of. He of course replaced head studs but he never mentioned anything about rod bolts.

I'm completely aware that every block is different, and reacts to boost differently. Which is why I want to take whatever precautions necessary to make sure this block is stable. And if you want a clear whp goal, I'm hoping for anywhere in between 250 and 300. I know that may be a little broad, and I don't honestly care what psi I hit those numbers at, just as long as the block can handle it and last for about a year or longer until the new block is built and ready to go in.

P.S. SDE - I'm not flaming the people helping me, and to be honest I wasn't aware you were trying to "help" me. Being the fact that you came in here and the first words out of your mouth were "You don't sound like you know very much." Not very helpful to be honest. Also, 10 psi on a gt35 is going to affect the motor the exact same as 10psi on a smaller turbo. It won't blow the motor if the motor is built enough to handle 10psi, which apparently doesn't take much. The only thing that will change are the characteristics of the boost itself. Whereas it will take more exhaust pressure to spool up a gt35 as opposed to say a 4831, so I'd have to wait for boost, but in the end I'd still get the exact same amount of it. The 4831 is a hybrid, so it's boost characteristics are different, I'd get boost much faster, and for a stock motor running 10psi fast boost is yummy. Fast boost is always good, as long as it's the right amount of it. The gt35 I have is much better for a more heavily built motor being it'll produce the exhaust pressure to spool the huge thing and be able to make use of its full potential.

Well I'm rambling again, but to finish off, I will probably get a smaller turbo to make better use of my current equipment. I will have to look into a shop that can take care of the rod bolts for me, being that if I do replace them I want it done right. And being that you have my range for my goal, does anyone have any other suggestions?

 

You can't unless you have proper gauges and inspection tools at your disposal.
When you 'press' something in, it's not replacing material.
The rod bolt is slightly larger than the hole it's going into. This is called an interference fit
It's actually moving material and it's very much like filling a glass with water and putting an ice cube into it.
The water has to go someplace so it spills over.
Just like the rod - the metal has to go someplace so it may bump up and distort.
This can make the surface that the bearing sits into go out of round.
Then when you place the bearing in, it won't sit right and bad things start to happen.
Machining the rod back into 'round' is the only option.


That statement fails.
CFM will change when you change turbos.
Just like a fan in your house. Figure they are all powered by 120v, and are set to 'high' which (for illustration purposes) blows a constant stream of 10psi air at you.
However, when you upgrade your little 3" desktop fan to a 20" carpet dryer the CFM goes way up and that 10psi no longer feels like a nice breeze, but now it's like a wind-tunnel typhoon.
It's the volume of air that changed.

A stock block can handle 10psi just a like a build block can.
What the stock block can not to is handle the compression and explosion of the significantly larger volume of air/fuel crammed into the cylinder.
Then you start bending rods and breaking ring lands on the stock block <- your basic parts to upgrade.
(Rods and pistons... and while you are at it ARP every bolt on the way for peace of mind.)

FYI - the stock used LS engine can do 300hp, however as already mentioned to you, it won't last long.
There are many accounts that I have seen where it only lasts a couple weeks on a decent tune.... and then other people get lucky and last months.
Fresh rebuilds have about 1 year at 300hp from the accounts I find. Still not worth it IMO.
275 is the 'rule of thumb' limit on the LS block.
250 would be a good safety net and with an electronic boost controller you could have 275 with the push of a button when you feel the need for speed.

Your buddy's wastegate was staying closed. It's supposed to open up when you reach a pre-defined psi. His engine (as most every engine) can handle some extra power, but obviously it won't last.
It wasn't the psi that would have killed it. It would have been the addition volume of air/fuel being compressed and exploded.
.

 

So then what you are saying about the turbo is that it would be a good idea for me to go get a smaller one like the 4831. So that I can keep the CFM to a tolerable amount with the stock block, correct? Then take the block to someone who can properly install the rod bolts, then go ahead and replace the head studs while I'm at it? And by doing that I should be good to go boosted a max 10psi safely and run about 230-270hp depending on the tune?

 

Will a 4831 on an internally capable LS, with stock LS head, intake, and exhaust be able to yield 270 at 10psi?
I don't have that answer.
You are the only one in this post that his mentioned that particular turbo and I don't know a thing about it.
That's where you have to do the research and see if it's possible.
Do other 300hp B18's with the 4831 make 270+ hp?
Better yet... search for what turbo people with LS motors are using to make 300hp (close enough to 270).

As mentioned earlier, the GT35 might be able to do it, but at the cost of being very laggy because it's big.
(Additionally, if the turbo is too big, it will require too much exhaust and will not make power. It's a totally capable turbo, but the exhaust being provided to spin it is just too little.)
Larger turbo (bearings and such all the same as a smaller) won't be seeing power until late in the RPM.
I think if you really want to understand this, you should do the research and learn how to read and apply compressor maps.
Then you will see WHY the GT35 would require high RPM to spool up and start making power.


The proper tune would be aiming for 270hp.
The tuner incrementally makes changes to fuel and ignition maps while stepping up the psi.
If all goes well, you reach your goal of 270hp and your tune is done.
Then you simply turn down the boost back down with a boost controller so that you are at 230hp.
This adjusts the psi that the wastegate opens up at (the opposite of what your buddy's wastegate was doing by staying closed and overboosting).
When you want the 270hp, you turn up the psi on the boost controller (most controllers have a 'scramble' button that does this so you get your max boost setting at the push of the button).

Your 10psi is basically irrelevant.
You aim for the 270hp regardless what psi it may happen at.

 

You're in West Virginia? Which part? There's Mad Scientist Auto run by Jarvis in Charleston, you know him?

Here's a few dynos from J-K tuning - stock internal LS motors making 300whp.




Stock LS
Inline Pro Log Manifold
T04E Turbo
3" Exhaust
NepTune RTP

Solid line is on ~14psi (Fluctuated a bit with the controller)
Dashed line is off the wastegate ~10.5 psi.

250whp is easily attainable.

This is why I posted that you don't know very much. It does NOT affect the motor the exact same as 10psi on a smaller turbo. You have much more reading to do sir. Begin with the turbo FAQ's in the appropriate forum, then start googling.

I helped you by telling you
1. Welded diff is not going to be good for circuit racing - to which you said it's the dumbest thing anyone's ever said
2. You need to search/read a lot more
3. Get a good tune - you responded with some sass

You're on the right track now - that GT35 will be somewhat laggy compared to smaller, better alternatives. 57 trim T3/T4 is a popular turbo and makes great power, but there are many out there that you need to search for. I wouldn't deal with the hassle of putting in ARP rod bolts, just put in a new headgasket with ARP studs and boost it.

And 4drEF - I firmly believe a main contributor to premature engine failure is the tune. Personally from experience, everyone told me around 200whp is the limit on stock D16's. I have a turbo D16Y8 with 155k miles - stock everything, including headbolts. Made 235whp and it was boosted for 12k DD miles and going strong, until I decided to put my built motor in.

There was a AWD Civic hatch with a boosted stock Z6 making 300whp stock internals for quite a while, can't remember who tuned it exactly but he is a very well known tuner as well.

OP you may not want to push your motor that much and it's perfectly fine, 275whp on the street is more than enough power to have fun with.

 

While you are correct in what you say 4drEF, there is more too it than that. As we all know it's about proper sizing and matching. A higher pressure at a lower CFM will have more heat - where a lower pressure at higher CFM will have less heat. We all know the colder the air coming into the engine is more dense thus we can add more fuel safely to a point, and generate more power. This coupled to the fact that restriction is PSI (if there was no restriction there wouldn't be pressure) we can see which choice is better. There isn't a fine line between CFM and PSI... They are completely different animals. Rather than go off and potentially ramble I found a great informational read for everyone. Please take the time to read it all and pay attention in the CFM and PSI departments... you will understand what I mean...

http://horsepowercalculators.net/tur...ator-explained