So its hard to find a straight answer for the proper way to set up a oil waste can. Im in the process of installing one on my b16, and plan on making a diy with pictures as i install it. My plan is to come off of the valve cover and into the can, then out of the can and into the intake befor the turbo. Inside the catch can i plan on putting some steel wool and possibly a peace of stainless steel kitchen scrubber on the top to catch the flakey steel wool. Has any on done this befor ? with the return line into the turbo ? i figured it was either that or into the exhaust. any feedback would be cool, i will post pictures tommoro when i put everything together.

 

All my catch can does as well as everyone else I know is to catch oil, not to supply it. A honda burns oil through the exhaust more then off the valve cover. The last time I changed my oil the catch can was empty to say the least. Supply the turbo line from the oil pan, nothing more, nothing less.

 

well yea exacly, the catch can wouldnt be supplying oil at all, it would be traping it. if anything it would just be taking the engine steam/smoke, riding it of the oil and redisidue-catching it in the can, and then puting the smoke through the turbo through the intercooler and back in the motor.

 

So what are you trying to accomplish? Not having to empty it?

 

the catch is more of a vent. since you disable the pcv for boost you need a place to vent crankcase pressure. a breather on the valve cover and a vented catch can ran from the black box to the can is a simple way to meet your needs.

 

no no not so i dont have to empty it, the oil gets traped in the can, and the air rises and goes through the line back to the turbo.,, but on that note, could i come off of the black box, where the pcv valve goes to under the IM ? the black box is considered the vacume housing on the backside of the block right underneath the intake manifold, correct ?

 

theres soo many write ups on this..

Endyne has probably the best compact kit ive seen. I would keep the PCV system intact if its a DD, but if a track car only, the the VC and back of block will be optimal.

If its just a DD, then your in vac more then boost.. so when u get into boost, the pcv will close and then the vent will release the blowby. theres a cap for black box hole.

 

Are you looking at this:

 

^^

Me? Yes. but dont do the drain back.

 

I am confused as to why you would want to do that? The drain back that is.

 

well, to let the accumulated oil drain back into pan.. but theres condensation that will also drain back.. no bueno.

u just have to keep an eye on it

 

Only builds condensation from sitting for awhile, at least thats what people tell me. I dont have a drain back setup either.

 

that set up you posted is a nice kit, mine isnt that fancy i dont have a briether filter on the top like that. i have my set up almost done, ill have pics up tommoro i hope, but i do have question befor i finish. would you guys recomend that i tie in the line from the pvc valve into my feed into the catch can. i would asume that would just act as the crank case release. so i would use a T fitting and come out of the black box where the pvc valve goes and into the line coming off the valve cover and into the can. again ill post pictures tomoro of the progress, thanks for the feedback guys.

 

Im confused on this.. the whole leaving the pvc intact, the car is tech a daily driver but iv been reading that pvc;s act as boost leaks when they fail because they are not regulated to work both ways with pressure coming in and out from the turbo and vacume lines. could i either A- delete the pvc completely and put a cap on the black box where the pvc used to be. or B- come off of the black box where the pvc did and splice the line into the feed coming off the valve cover and into the can. i would assume that would be the best wouldnt it ??

 

i went from a N/A high compression h22 in my civic. to my new project turbo b16, first turbo car iv made so for all the OGs cut me some slack if im saying somthin wrong

 

I have seen this before:



I forgot how I have mine but I have no boost leak, I have issues when it gets cold outside

 

This is the exact kit i run....no issues. i change my oil every 1000, 1500 miles max. I dont think condensation will have much effect if youre driving the car frequently...if the car sits for a long time then change the oil.

 

Change your oil that often? Can I ask why?

 

option 2 is quick and easy

run the VC and black box to a dual input vented catch can. this allows crank case pressure to have somewhere to go and traps any oil

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAF-ALL36109/

something like this would do the trick.

it's by all ways, virtually the same can that endyn is using, just costs a lot less

 

i hardly drive the car, but when i do drive it its usually always on high boost and i usually drive it pretty hard. if it was a car i drove easy everyday i would prob change more like 2000 miles maybe 2500. Its cheap insurance too. Why not change it more frequently with a Turbo car thats driven hard. Alot of people change there after every track event.

I use Valvoline Race oil VR1 10w-30 Non-synthetic. Use to use castrol gtw but recently swtiched over

 

Have you ever sent your oil out for testing? You might not even been burning the oil down that much so you have to replace it. Although letting it sit is never optimal.

 

No never seemed worth the money when a oil change is 35-40$ My rings and ptw are set for high boost. So the gaps are much wider then OEM. This would definatly make the oil dirty faster. If i didnt run the car in high boost 90% of the time i wouldnt change so frequently. 1000-1500 miles usually takes me 6-8 weeks.

 

This is OT but yes give it a try. We did this with my friends S/C Grand AM and were surprised at the results. It is amazing what you can find from those tests they do. I did speak to them for a bit and was surprised how long normal oil can really last for in a stock vehicle. This might be the reason why car manufactures are now able to do 10K oil changes for those on lease with no damage to the motor. In your case with the setup your oil will become dirty fast but then again this is the assumption. I would give it a try and see what the results are though.

 

you realize oil analysis is $25?

 

thanks for the input, that is exacly what im doing, my can is simular but a little diffrent, i am runing it that way, what do you think about the line coming out of the can going to the turbo intake filter ?