HELP! B18A1 Dead Cylinder
Hello, I'm hoping someone will be able to help me out cuz I'm stuck. I just baught a 91 Integra 2 door with a b18a1. The motor and trainy vins match the car, so its all compatible. The guy had a firing issues, so he sold it to me cheap. It has a short ram, Megan header, a full Skunk2 with a test pipe. It has 200k, so I did the timing, tensioner, and water pump. Still misfires, got a new cap and rotor, spark plugs and wires. A little smoother but still misfires. Check the spark, has no spark at all on cyliner 3 (I beleave) 2nd from left. A friend told me it might be the pick-up inside the distributor, but I don't think any cylinders would fire. So I'm stuck to buying a new distributor for at least 250. Is there anything else that might be causing it?
Take the spark plug wire and stick a screwdriver in it and bring it close to a ground. You should see a spark, chances are you are getting spark, but low compression. Possibly a blown valve.
Do a compression test when you get a chance. A distributor not sparking for 1 cylinder sounds silly.
Do a compression test when you get a chance. A distributor not sparking for 1 cylinder sounds silly.
Take the spark plug wire and stick a screwdriver in it and bring it close to a ground. You should see a spark, chances are you are getting spark, but low compression. Possibly a blown valve.
Do a compression test when you get a chance. A distributor not sparking for 1 cylinder sounds silly.
Do a compression test when you get a chance. A distributor not sparking for 1 cylinder sounds silly.
Swapped out the distributor, I now have spark on cylinder 3. Still no combustion. Will check the injector and a pressure test on the cylinder tomorrow. Anyone know what the resistance on these should be?
Cylinder 3 walls may be "washed", do the compression test.
Standard compression is 184PSI
Minimum compression is 135PSI
Maximum variation between cylinders is 28PSI
Washed cylinder walls result when there is no spark and fuel is constantly being flushed through the cylinder, washing any oil off the cylinder wall and rings, leading to low compression, you can also pour in a tbl spoon of oil into cylinder 3 through the spark plug hole, unplug the distributor and the PGM-FI Main Relay, [no fuel no spark] and crank the engine a few times or a few sec., this will "re-oil" the cylinder wall and rings, reconnect the PGM-FI Main Relay and distributor install spark plug and fire it up, it should blow smoke for a bit but the excess oil will burn off pretty quick. 94
Standard compression is 184PSI
Minimum compression is 135PSI
Maximum variation between cylinders is 28PSI
Washed cylinder walls result when there is no spark and fuel is constantly being flushed through the cylinder, washing any oil off the cylinder wall and rings, leading to low compression, you can also pour in a tbl spoon of oil into cylinder 3 through the spark plug hole, unplug the distributor and the PGM-FI Main Relay, [no fuel no spark] and crank the engine a few times or a few sec., this will "re-oil" the cylinder wall and rings, reconnect the PGM-FI Main Relay and distributor install spark plug and fire it up, it should blow smoke for a bit but the excess oil will burn off pretty quick. 94
Yea i went through all of this and ended up having a bad valve. Hope there is an easier solution for you.
On the bright side head jobs arent that hard so hopefully its a valve and not a cylinder problem
On the bright side head jobs arent that hard so hopefully its a valve and not a cylinder problem
Just did the compression check, ended up looking over it and an exhaust valve. Checked online and picked up a 30k head with the intake manifold. Its out a 95, so I'm sure I gotta kep my manifold. Looks good, so I hopefully I get a change to swap it tomorrow. Thanks for info guys.
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well atleast your ready to do timing belt!post a pic of your head when you get it off i want to see if it was like mine. Also a new head on 200k block is a bit sketchy imo but i guess if its in good shape it could be fine
I got the head off, gutted it for any bolt ons. There was a hole about a 1/4", I didn't get pic but I'll get one tomorrow. Bolted up the new head, header and intake manifold. Hooked up the fuel and most of the vacum lines. Didn't get to fire it up, didn't even slap on the distributor. Ran out of time, maybe finish it tomorrow. As for the 200k block, I'll run what I got for now. In the mean time, I got my other head so I can build that up, and hopefully find a block I can bolt onto it. This way when this motor goes I'll be ready with the new one.
Yup samething with my old head. My homie says the valve adjustment goes out of wack in time. Its important to adjust your valve lash every 30k otherwise they tighten up and eat up the valves. Also when installing cams you should adjust your valve lash
So I slapped the damn thing back together, gave it a lil bit of oil and put it the coolant. Primed it, started it, killed it after a few seconds and started it up again. First of all it's really rough, almost sounds like my valves are knocking on the 1st cylinder. Only thing I can think of is the valve lash that was just mentioned and the timing. Is there a special tool I need for this? I know my Mazda needed one, I got the specs, so I'll probably do it tomorrow regardless. I don't have a book so I went off of what I read on this forum. Let me get this right... two cams on the up-stroke locked in with a pin, the main crank pulley has a stock marking with a sungle line(what I used) and 3 other lines for the distributor timing. Is this correct?
Last edited by Slinky85; Nov 28, 2011 at 03:47 PM.
First of all you gotta set your crank to tdc, you can do that by using something long and taking your spark plug out and waiting till its at it highest point, or you can use the mark on the crank pulley. Then you have to set the cams so the up is at the top and so the lines running horizontal are even with the head. Its not hard really. On my gsr when you put the belt on you had to losen the tensioner slide the belt on and then turn the motor counterclockwise 3 degrees and then tighten tensioner.
Im no pro at this but when adjusting valve lash you set it to top dead center(same as putting belt on) and you use a feeler gauge to slide between lobes and rockers and determines if they are within spec. at tdc you check the first cylinder
You have to look up your specs and the order in which you check the valve lash but i know after the first cylinder you have to turn the motor in 90 degree intervals. Its something like 1,3,4,2 but again im not certain and im unsure of the specs of a b18a/b
Hope this helps you my man im sure you will get it soon....but take your time for best results.
Im no pro at this but when adjusting valve lash you set it to top dead center(same as putting belt on) and you use a feeler gauge to slide between lobes and rockers and determines if they are within spec. at tdc you check the first cylinder
You have to look up your specs and the order in which you check the valve lash but i know after the first cylinder you have to turn the motor in 90 degree intervals. Its something like 1,3,4,2 but again im not certain and im unsure of the specs of a b18a/b
Hope this helps you my man im sure you will get it soon....but take your time for best results.
Got it!!! I re-did the timing belt, I'm sure the main crank was at least a tooth off. Fired it up, purs like a kitten. Bled the coolant, and roughly adjusted the distributor. Didn't have the time to adjust the valves, but I baught a Haynes book( I know its not a Chilton, but it's good enough) read over it real quick and seems like a breeze. Much thanks to all you guys for the help, it would have taken me forever without you. This is my first B motor, and my 4th honda, definatly a lifetime member for this site. Sorry about not putting up pics, I don't have them on any URL, just on my phone. Any ideas as to what I should do with this car?
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