Yesterday i was adjust the throttle cable and taking out some slack. I was doing some experimenting and noticed even on the highest setting, I wouldnt notice any increase in my RPMs. My RPMs would always remain the same whether i had the cable on its tightest or loosest setting. So I was told that it sounds like my TPS isnt reading the voltage right and have it checked out.

So today my mech took a Volt multi meter to the red and green cables on the TPS. He removed the airbox to get to the Throttle body. He connected his Volt MM to the red and green cables on the TPS, checked it at idle...was 0.59V, then i put the pedal to the floor for WOT and only got 0.79V. This is with the car off. I asked if my key needs to be in the inition with the ignition on but car off and he said no it wouldnt make any difference. I thought odd.

So he says i need a new TPS.

Some questions

I hear you cant buy the TPS sensor alone (at least not OEM) but have to get the throttle body since the TPS sensor comes on it already calibrated i guess. Is this true? if I buy a OEM TB the TPS will already be calibrated so i just install it and thats it?

Would you trust getting an aftermarket TPS?

I really dont wanna have to spend $300 on a OEM throttle body if i dont have to. But which would you do? Buy OEM Throttle body with TPS already on it and already calibrated or an aftermarket TPS and the extra labour to install it and calibrate it.

Did my mech even test it properly?

 

When i Blew my first motor(ALL STOCK), and put in my new motor(ALSO STOCK), the (oem)TPS sensor was messed up. So what i did, was just swap throttle bodies from the old motor, to the new. Everything worked out fine and was quite easy. ( I was 16 at the time and did it all on my own)

If i were you, i would just try finding one at a local junk yard. i wouldn't imagine them charging too much for a throttle body...Thats just what i would do, anyway.

 

So its safe to buy a used TB? Dont have to worry about anything mechnically wrong with it? Probably cause its just a metal cup with an opening door. The TPS is probably the more important thing and how much milage on it?

 

If he is reading VOLTS then the ignition key needs to be set to II ( the dash lights should come on) engine not running. There is no voltage there with the ignition off.
If he is reading Ohms (resistance) then it doesn't matter, you can do that witout the ignition being on.

Do you have a check engine light?

 

Thats what i thought! The ignition key has to be on! But he said it didnt matter.

He read ohms too, said it was 4ohms at WOT i believe.

No engine light

 

I would have it checked again, I think with the key to number 2, to get voltage ( I think) As for aftermarket much cheaper, it just has to be calibrated with a multi meter.

 

Go to another mechanic before you spend money on parts, I do not think your TPS is bad.