You need a c-clamp, a 12mm bolt and a socket. The socket is to allow room for the bitch pin to be pushed into. Put the bolt on the opposite side and tighten the c-clamp until the pin is out. Hours were spent before this came to mind.

 

Really should have got some pics. Some may not be able to visualize this.

 

its sounds similar to how you would normally install a lower ball joint, but instead of pressing it in, your pushing it out

 

Yeah I was to the point I just wanted to be done but basically it would be something like... Hope diagram helps

If you tighten the C- clamp it will push the bolt into the shift linkage removing the B.P.
_ top of C-clamp.
T-bolt
O-shift linkage
U-socket to catch bitch pin
_-bottom of C-clamp

 

http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...tch/bitch.html

 

I've always use a 10 or 12mm bolts tapped it out takes a few seconds to do

 

ive seen a tool made already if u search check here : http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...tch/bitch.html

 

I was told to use a 12mm bolt to tap it out before I even started but it didn't budge. I didn't have the room to work. I like the screw bit idea, less to try and keep in place while tightening. Wish I would of seen that link prior, would of saved a few hours

 

took me about 3min to come up with the idea of using a 1/4" rachet extension and a hammer the first time i did this.

 

12mm a/c bolt has a tappered end and pushes all the way through on less than a minute everytime

 

matco is who makes the correct tool for the bitch pin. buy one, this is a nightmare without it

http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...MER-LINK-TOOL/

i never come in the civic forum, just noticed this as a top thread and thought i would share a way to save hours of frustration for $26.70

 

 

i made my own tool. works in ten seconds.

 

I use a punch, and a BFH. hasn't failed me yet.

 

only thing that sucks with that, if your working on the gound and dont have the room to swing a hammer. maybe ill post a video of my method. it does involve having a air hammer.

 

good info.....

 

How high are you jacking the car up?

Sure it's a little tight under there, but there is enough room. Well, for me.

 

yeah make a video next time i guarantee i can take it out faster than you with a air hammer

using a cclamp is retarded

 

I've always used a honda a/c compressor bolt with no issues. It's roughly 4.5" long with a 12mm bolt head and they're 4 of them that mount the a/c compressor to the a/c compressor engine block bracket. The tappered end fits directly into the "bitch pin". If it's been a while since it's been removed soak it in wd40 then lightly hammer it out.

 

this is like the easiest thing in the world.. i dont understand why someone had to make a DIY on it..

 

i always just used a small torx bit. was out in 3 whacks.

 

primative rocket science if i say so myself.

 

I always just removed the shifter and kept the bitch pin in...hammering upside down for 1 hour is not fun

 

i understand what he means.
gotta love paint:

 

I was pulling my engine out a few weeks ago and couldnt find punch to get the pin out. So I started digging around the garage and pulled a spare b-series valve out of a junk head that I had laying around.

Put the top of the valve (small end) up to the pin and gave it 3 taps with a hammer and it was out!

Best tool ive used so far.