Hey guys, looking for some input here, these are all getting installed this April (there will be a detailed thread later), but I wanted to see if I missed anything.

Car as it stands: 1994 Honda Prelude VTEC, DC Sports DAC Intake, DC Sports 4-2-1 CC Header w/2.5" Collector, 2.5" Test pipe (swaps in an out for track days), 2.5" KTeller Mandrel Bent Exhaust, Thermal R&D Single Inlet Dual Outlet Muffler, 4Bidden Short Shifter (You can look at my profile for the visual stuff if you're really curious), Tein Basic Coilovers.

What I bought... let me know if I'm missing anything:
Phearable S300/P28 (Tune being provided by local Hondata vendor w/dyno)
Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams
Brian Crower Dual Stainless Valvesprings & Titanium Retainers
Rosko Racing Euro-R Intake Manifold
AEM Tru Time Cam Gears
AEM UEGO Wideband kit with gauge
AEM Fuel Rail

We're also replacing the following:
Full Engine Gasket Kit
Timing Belt
Serpentine Belt (A/C Delete being done)
Lower Ball Joints (Squeaking after drop)

And some extra goodies:
Prelude Type-S Valve Cover
Mugen Pedals
Accord Type-R Front Lip
SamCo Red Radiator Hoses
Goodrich Stainless Steel Brake Lines

Any help is appreciated because I can't shake the feeling I'm missing something and want everything ready to go come spring.

~Peace

 

3000 dollars and thats all you got?

 

I also purchased a Psyko Performance Downpipe Elbow, HKS SR20DET Downpipe and Nismo Oil Cap for my mechanic (15 year Nissan Master Tech) and his RB25DET S14. Don't pay labor now... so yeah, I guess that's all I got. The Cams, Valve Springs, and Phearable ECU are about half of that. And a Rosko Intake manifold is $575...

So... anyone actually have some input? Or another snarky comment maybe? Trying to find out if I'm missing something here, or if you'd recommend anything else. I'm low on funds so don't start recommending injectors and internals... That's coming next year.

~Peace

 

Well, there's not some master list of exactly what you do and don't have to buy to put on your car...

What are your goals? Technically a car can just be built more and more and more and cost a billion dollars.

 

^ this. It all depends on your goals. Most people would say to do a manual tensioner conversion (especially with aftermarket valvetrain like you're getting), and a number of people drop the balance shafts.

 

Thanks for the responses. Yeah, I understand there's no master list and I wouldn't want to follow it even if there was lol.

I'm basically asking you all (because I know you guys know your shiz), if you were to be installing these mods, are there any additional parts I may need to make it work better or be easier to tune when I throw it on the dyno this spring? Anything I may want to replace being that I'm putting these power adders on?

Just looking for some suggestions, comments, experiences I guess. Maybe I phrased it wrong. Anyone see any problems with my set up? And if you say DC Sports Header... I swear to God... lol

 

should go ahead and return the bc cams. they suck.

 

That seems pretty expensive for just all that...depending on your goals there are many options.

 

So what are your goals?

 

Yeah and I hope that all the seals along with the timing belt and water pump are OEM, aftermarket is junk.

 

wtf?

 

is this for show or what??? i saw fuel rail but no fuel pump, injectors, regulator, ect....
also an intake manifold... you putting the stock throttle body on???

 

The only thing I like about all the parts is that it will be dyno tuned and the euro r manifold. Everything else could be better.
Get rid of all that bc stuff and go with skunk2 pro1.
You don't need the fuel rail and a bunch of that stuff is not needed.
You also have crappy bolt ons. Get a good header, 3" exhaust and a 3" cold air.
This would be a "good" build 10 years ago though. Good for 200whp back then but it's just old stuff.

 

Wow, kinda surprised by all of your responses? Did I end up on Rude-Tech.com or something?

Ok, thanks for the information... I guess. Can you tell me why?

I included the price of my dyno tune ($450) and price of all of my mechanics parts ($650) in there. So I guess I only spent $1800 on all of that? I included it all because I figure it includes the "install" as well.

+1 Rep for you for actually trying to help. My goals are to end up with a 98VTEC type build. Before anyone goes into me not getting there with my "@#$^& bolt ons" (whoops already happened), I plan on putting these mods on because my wife and I are planning for a child and then upgrading down the road. I bought a DC Sports header last year because I had a hole in my exhaust manifold and needed a cheap replacement that would provide some gains. Since I've already had one, I decided to go with it again since I got it for $140 shipped. Cams and IM are being purchased off of me by a buddy when I upgrade. I'm looking for something I'll be pleased with for the next 2-3 years while I get settled into my new career and start a family with my wife. Engine will be fully rebuilt then, and my @%^^@ bolt ons will be exchanged for an SMSP header, ITBs and a 3" exhaust. Thanks for not jumping down my throat right away like pretty much everyone else here.


Yes, good try at jumping on the bashing bandwagon though

Amazingly insightful and full of technical expertise. Thank you for your brilliant response and input. I will DEFINITELY take that into consideration.

+1 Rep for you as well

Some of the parts are, yes. The Samco hoses, valve cover, and fuel rail are. I wanted to dress up my engine bay a bit because my valve cover is all chipped up and I show my car next to my buddies slick RB25DET Silvia... a little intimidating... lol

I plan on upgrading injectors and the rest of the fuel system either next year or this fall. I am debating putting the stock Throttle body on, but heard the S2K one is a good replacement. Anyone have input? Is it going to provide a big enough gain to warrant dropping money on it now just to replace it in a few years?

Again, why? And what? You guys are just ripping on my mods and not giving any feedback. After I already have bolt ons, and I'm going for an N/A build I shouldn't get cams, engine management, and an intake manifold?

Seems like you guys are just bashing my mods (must be nice to have a ton of money and be able to criticize people who are trying to start their first build). If I wanted that I would have gone to Super Honda, but I came here for technical input because I heard this board was very helpful... sadly it's turning out not to be the case. I need new radiator hoses because mine are old and cracking, I need new pedals because my clutch pad fell off and can be slippery when wet. I wanted the valve cover because mine is all chipped and I don't want to pop my hood at the meets I go to and have my motor look like a lump of manure... sue me. Let's concentrate on the Cams, Valve Springs, Intake Manifold, and Hondata as those are the parts I'm most concerned with.


What's so wrong with Brian Crower? I have a pathological hatred of anything Junk2, so it will take some convincing. Anyone know of a dyno comparison? I've found individual charts via search but nothing comparing the cams straight up. Skunk 2 better be leaps and bounds better unless the BC cams are prone to breaking because they're double the price and these are temporary... I'm planning on getting a good header as mentioned before, 2.5" exhaust is perfectly fine for my current set up, and I plan on going with ITBs down the road. I'm only buying parts that will be replaced in my final build if I have a guarantee from my friend with HIS Prelude that he'll purchase them when I'm done. I'm essentially renting parts until my final build. He's going with a Type-S Intake (So no CAI), He's building with all OEM or modded OEM parts for his build (so debating an S2K TB), and that's why I'm going with Rosko for my IM, not Junk2

Again, the goal is to produce a car that will be reliable, fun to drive, and hold me over performance wise for the next 2-3 years until I have all of my parts ordered and are ready to start assembling the engine. I've already owned the car for 11 so I can wait another 2-3...

~Peace

 

Im not a fan of Skunk 2 either myself. I like the manifold setup. I think you pretty much have it all covered as far as gaskets go while your motor is torn apart. Get them on. BC cams are not a bad choice and I dont get why people hate on them so bad.

 

Me either considering the charts and reviews I've seen rate them close to cams twice their price. Thanks for the input, this is the type of answer I was looking for. I already bought the parts THEN came here because I knew what I wanted. I guess I'll be vindicated (or proven wrong) in the spring when I get my car tuned.

Would upgrading to an S2K TB provide anything more than 1-2 horsepower with this set up? If it's a small power adder, I'll just do without for now.

~Peace

 

I would do a aftermarket throttle body. There is a vendor on here selling 68mm for 80shipped. Ill find it for you. Get that and port match it. you could see 5-6hp.

 

Sick dude thank you. Rosko also port matches everything before shipping so I could call them and have them port match for that TB. PM me a link when you find it. Does Honda-Tech not have a rep system?

~Peace

 

I did some more research on the way home and called my buddy who knows the guys who will be tuning my car @ Suja 1 and they also recommend the Skunk 2's Pro Series. So from what I'm reading now, with new valvesprings and a tune, I should be able to run the Pro 2's on stock pistons and get more gains than the Pro 1's, is that your experience? Also, a previous poster called into question the Rosko Racing Intake Manifold for my setup. Would you recommend the Pro Series intake manifold from Skunk2? Is it specifically tuned to make power with their cams? Or would the Rosko be better? It seems like the community is back and forth over this one...

I know what I do and don't need (explained over @ HT), I'm missing a clutch pedal cover and got legit Mugen pedals for $40.00 shipped.... Radiator hoses are cracked as well as the powder coat on my valve cover so I figured as long as I'm getting cams, what the heck, let's not spruce it up a little bit. Know it's not the best choice of funds, but the parts are needed and I got great deals. Amps and sub came out last spring along with the spare, jack, and toolkit. Looking at deleting the rear seats, pulling the trunk liner and relocating my battery as well.

Already have Tein basics that have maybe 800 miles on them that we put on last spring. Brakes were replaced last year and I have DOT4 and also bought stainless brake lines. Tires are taken care of as of my first visit to the track... have to get rid of whats left of these... haha

Thanks for the input man. Search function helps, but I appreciate you sharing your experience and changing my mind on the cams pretty quick.

~Peace

 

You Got mugen Pedals for $40? That's the price for replicas. Unless they are in really shitty condition, you won't get real ones for $40.
The replicas look exactly like the real ones and say mugen on it as well.

 

They're legit, brand new in box, identical to mugen box on the web. Has mugen stickers and instructions included... Pretty sure they're legit and I just got a really good deal

 

x2