best rear sway bar for weekend autocross EK hatch
I'm trying to decide what rear sway bar to run that would be a good choice for street/ autocross and maybe a track day once and a while. I'm broke and can't afford a dedicated race car so I have to make do with my 99 Civic hatch. Suspension setup is as follows: Energy suspension bushings, Function 7 rear LCAs and subframe brace, Tein Type Flex coilovers, Skunk2 pro front and rear camber kit, Buddy club extended ball joints, Hardrace tie rod ends. I have been looking at suspension techniques or whiteline. There are a lot of cheaper options as well but, since I'm broke, I can't afford to buy junk. What brand/diameter bar should I get?
Tien flex are like 500/250. I'm no expert, but I think you're going to need a lot of sway bar to get the understeer out of those rates.
Or he could complete the full "JDM setup", staggered tire sizes, radical toe values, trailbraking to produce rotation, very low ride height, etc...
no, I don't have a front bar, and I was advised against running one by a guy who races a car just like mine in H1 class Honda challenge.
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Many race cars over there seem to make use of those type of setups (heavy front spring bias as opposed to the rear spring bias we tend to run over here). If you can get it to work for you, please remember to share with us what did and didn't work.
In regards to swaybars,
http://www.asrparts.com/?page_id=159
The 24mm would probably be a good start. If you think you can handle it, the 32mm hollow would be better (imo), and if it were my car I'd be tempted to try the 0.25" wall thickness variant.
Meaning that you can have very different swaybar "stiffness" ratings for the same diameter.
I'd run a front one, especially if you have a LSD, but that's me. I really dislike the transient response (or lack there of) without one.
My EJ Hatch, 440lb front 225lb rear, koni/eibach ers blah blah. Sway bars ST 24mm front and 22mm rear with sub frame brace, with 17x7 wheels and falke RT-615 tires it oversteers. Hope that helps. PS with 15x7 and Nitto NT01's it's neutral. Tire choice and rim size do play a role. He may not need that big of a sway bar. I also have BLOX rear LCA's just for bling, one may argue they add to the rigidity i suppose...
My EJ Hatch, 440lb front 225lb rear, koni/eibach ers blah blah. Sway bars ST 24mm front and 22mm rear with sub frame brace, with 17x7 wheels and falke RT-615 tires it oversteers. Hope that helps. PS with 15x7 and Nitto NT01's it's neutral. Tire choice and rim size do play a role. He may not need that big of a sway bar. I also have BLOX rear LCA's just for bling, one may argue they add to the rigidity i suppose...
I have 16x8 +38 Enkei RPF1 with 205/45 Bridgestone RE-11 tires. I can't afford 2 sets of wheels/tires so I'll be using these on the autocross course as well. The Teins I am using have 559 front 392 rear. It handles decently well right now (with no sway bars) but nothing is really dialed in yet. Once I get all the parts bolted on I am taking my car to 42 autosports to have it corner balanced and aligned.
woo dude, going for that stretched look? you need to be running the 225 wide tire with that kind of rim width. especially if you want to be serious about autocrossing. you want to go with the widest tire you can fit, period, for autocross.
i've run a 205/55/14 on a 5in wide rim. had to do this or else i would of been bumped up to a higher class. i've even seen a guy run 225/55/14 on those same type of rims. more tire more grip, but that doesn't mean more contact patch, if you know what i mean.
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kay_animation
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Oct 15, 2003 05:25 PM





