Hi,
Is possible using k20a crank with stock rods and pistons in f20c block and head? The 84mm VS 86mm stroke from k20 maybe put down better torque, i think that its possible using a big layer to compensate the bigger stroke without smashing the valves

I had this idea because i have a f20c block with rods and pistons but without crank, and have k20 crank for free

 

no.. you don't throw in rods from a k series into a f20, this is not a b16a/b18c/ls,

:facepalm:

 

He is saying throw a crank into the stock f20 rods and pistons, just to clarify.

Probably still not gonna work though.

 

more opinions?

 

so youre trying to be cheap and throw a motor together with random parts you have laying around? just get a crank for the F series

 

OP, you could just do what Turbo Magazine did and use H22A rods and pistons pared-down to fit a K24 crank for a high displacement F23C that's still FRM friendly.

 

that combo with the h series is really ghetto... if its low budget... dreams are best left to i/h/e and some " stuff to come"....

 

So, I suppose using ITR rods and CTR pistons in B18C1 is "ghetto" too? There's nothing wrong with using cross platform components if they work.

And to the OP: Why not measure the Journals and try it? You never know what might fit until you try it.

 

A K20 crank will fit in an F20c block, however you must modify the crank in order for it to work. The main differences are the aforementioned rod journal width differences, the keyway on the K snout is too short to use the F20c timing gear, and the pilot bearing at the rear of the crank has to be modified.

 

YES. its ****ing ghetto. this is not a civic.

 

Now I am curious...

 

why use a k20 crank? are looking to get torque from swapping a f20c crank for a k20 crank? wtf wheres the logic?

**there are better options out there, dont waste time and money**

 

Derp derp derp because an ITR/CTR/GSR are all B series you idiot. It would be like using H22 rods and pistons in a B18.

 

just put an F22C1 crank in there (preferrably with the F22 rods too). It'll at least save you the headache of making the K-crank fit

 

The theory is that the K20's crank would yield better torque numbers in comparison to it's 86mm stroke as opposed to the F20's 84mm stroke. Keeping the same displacement while increasing torque. Not worth it if you ask me.

 

wow way to be obvious. its just a car. elitist scumbag.

OP if the parts are free then try it. I would still stick with the ones that are known to work unless you just have a pile of money to burn

 

My thoughts exactly, if the OP is looking for torque why not try building the F24 using the k24 crank and goodies from inlinepro?

 

I always love these completely hypothetical threads.... If I had the money, can I turn my S2000 into a Rocket ship and fly to mars?

Why not just design your own engine based on a F20. Then you can engineer them, make them and sell them to all the other Hypothetical millionaires that visit HT.

 

if a k24 crank fit into the f22's... i dont' see why the k20 crank wont' fit in the f20....

but, like others mentioned already, it's probably too much work for it to be worthwhile even if the crank itself is free, as it'll take resources to modify it.

so unless you're doing to professional grade modifications yourself, it might be better to sell the k20 crank, and use whatever money you get from it and add whatever money you were planning on getting the crank modified professionally to get yourself a f20 crank then assemble the engine.

 

well I just got done putting the stroker kit in my car and the biggest problem we had was clearance for the rods, but then again I used H beam rods bc of the boost, so we had to grind a little away from the block and sleeves... also had to notch the piston bc of the longer duration and it would hit the OIL squirters.. but was also told you can run without them, but i didnt want to chance it... but it seriously is A LOT OF WORK...
Dont let every one knock you, we dont know what can be done until its tried... good luck

 

What was your budget? Also can you provide all of your cost and labor charges? Although you and the op have different situations, I would much rather suggest going the stroker route rather than using a k20 crank in a f20

 

didnt really have one, not to sound whatever but i just bought was needed and took out a loan honestly if i didnt have it lol....But just in Labor alone was prob close to like 2800-3k only bc he had to spend like an extra 6-8 hours grinding the block and sleeves for clearance... and the stroker kit was another 2800 i think from inline pro then new piston/rings/bearings.. Im not TOTALLY sure off the top of my head bc i built the ENTIRE motor not just the bottom end. So if i had to guess TOTAL would be like close to 10-11k.... Again thats with all Ferrea head products, except the cams cuz nobody makes any good ones that produce any REAL gains for the money they ask...There is nothing on the motor that isnt new other then the intake itself and the block itself... other then that everything has been built or REBUILT....

But if you want to have fun you have to pay for it lol!!

 

so you paid someone 6-8 hours worth of labor(80/hr minimum) $560 to notch a block for rods/crank.

How is anyone going to take this seriously. troll.

 

ohh its gets better, you spend 11k on a engine but left the cams stock.. lmao **** out here kid

 

Yes 6-8 hours EXTRA ontop of DISASSEMBlY of the motor and then after the kits installed to REASSEMBLE IT you moron! AND I live in cali labor is 90 DOLLARS AN HOUR... and yes to the other comment I did leave the cams stock! you know a company that makes good cames besideds TOADS 1k a piece cams pretty much? please enlighten me