alright so i have a 1994 honda civic dx that im slowly starting to build. so far ive put a 1995 d16z6 head on the d15b7 block to make my mini me engine and ive installed exhaust, si transmission, short shifter, short ram intake, etc..next i wanna do a common build and i wanted peoples opinion because i know other people have done the same build many times and i wanna hear how it performs and if it was worth it or not. ill be buying a 59300 stage 3 blox cam, blox valve springs, nippon d16a1 high compression pistons and a 6 puck clutch kit. i can purchase all this for around 800 dollars and im hoping to be able to push 150-160 whp with a good tune. does anyone else have numbers that they can give me of their power after their (simular) build? do you think its worth it? thanks

note..
d16 pistons $130
clutch kit $200
blox cam $250
valve springs $150
(ebays prices without be too cheap)

 

youre going to need some machine work to fit those pistons..

 

What do you need a 6 puck clutch for such low HP numbers?

 

lmao .. too say he got a high performance clutch .. hahaha!!

 

Explain please, in DETAIL.

 

Tell you what I'll answer for you.

The answer is ZERO machine work is needed to put P29 pistons in a 1.5L block.

If the block is a D15B7 non-VTEC block then you must find 92-95 Civic VX VTEC-E rods, or the JDM D15B VTEC rods because otherwise the pistons will actually sit TOO LOW in cylinders with stock D15B7 rods, thus having complete crap LOW compression.

...but the smart *** poster talking about machine work probably knew all of this, right?

 

lol .. nice!!

 

BTW jdmtim:

You proposed build sounds good, but there is no way it will sniff the 150whp area without some GOOD head work and a killer, killer tune. Don't forget a really good header...

I built a simple 11:1CR D16A6 years ago (the build is in the archives) and it was nasty without any aftermarket cam.

Something else you really need to consider is a better transmission in terms of shorter gearing and closer final drive ratio. 92-00 Civic EX or 92-95 Si tranny would be a good start. Better gearing really brings a nice SOHC to life.

 

[QUOTE

Something else you really need to consider is a better transmission in terms of shorter gearing and closer final drive ratio. 92-00 Civic EX or 92-95 Si tranny would be a good start. Better gearing really brings a nice SOHC to life.[/QUOTE]

actually i have the si tranny which makes a huge difference i know. i thought i could use the stock rods tho, i never knew that. what about the d16z6 rods, would those work with the a1 pistons? and yes the bore size is the same so i would probably just glaze the cylinder walls before installing the new pistons

 

i have an ebay 2.5 inch 4-2-1 header and 2.5 inch 5pexi catback right now but im also looking at a bismoto header which are suppose to be top of the line. and i want a performance clutch because i like how hard the 6 pucks grab haha

 

Trying to get my 5 posts in, had account forever never posted anything.lol but if your looking for 160 or more whp, instead of putting all that money into d series why not just go b series...

 

Because D-series is what you have. Some places these engines are scare and expensive. They don't grow on trees.

 

Some people like d series. I'm staying sohc and eventually going boost after exterior, interior, suspension and all that.

 

first of all...everything below this is opinion.....don't want opinion, don't read on.

ill be doing the mini-me swap at some point next year simply because i feel like wrenching on my shitbox.

with that being said. if i were looking at making a sexy-performance engine i would only choose one of two routes, based on my knowledge and my experience.

1: keep the single cam and boost it
2: swap B series

and here's why: the single cam is a terrific engine however was poorly designed for N/A performance, from port shape to valve size to displacement and even has a "dumbed down" vtec (only active on intake lobes) BUT (read on SOHC lovers) they respond relatively well to boost and for ~1k$ (less for me, i have parts hook-ups and all the shop tools i could ever handle) can be made fast AND reliable.

the dual-cam however is a very nice alternative because you don't have to re-engieneer it, keep it running as it was intended from factory and make good gains from the d-series, also have shorter (or longer) transmissions (depending on what you want - need), potential stock LSDs, bolt right in with no excess stress from FI and do not need to be modified in any way at all and i can get a full swap for a bit more than a typical turbo-d setup

the third option that people typically suggest is turbo B and if i wanted to spend the cost of the swap and the cost of boosting this would be viable to me but at this point in my life, it's not.
/opinion

as per your build, i would honestly, honestly!!! consider a low boost-turbo setup, you can retain fuel mileage, keep your "cheap" power plant (relatively speaking) and pack a serious HP/torque increase (easily over your power goals) when you give 'er


just a thought before you commit to buying parts!

 

well im staying single cam for now i dont have **** for money so this is my cheap build. ive had b series before and i liked it more but this is what i have to work with now so i just need to find out what rods i can use cuz i cannot afford d15b jdm pistons...or vx for that matter so if someone can let me know i would appreciate it

 

Alot of people, including me, have gone the Vitara build with their SOHC. Its a cheap and effective way of building the d-series engines. There are people with the Vitara build who have up in the 500s I believe. Maybe in the 600s now. But if you do go the Vitara route, it is a must to turbo it to get the most out of your SOHC. www.fjdistributors.com is the leading supplier of the Vitara build and prices are agreeable. But if you get the rods, wether it be fj r spec, eagle, etc... you will have to notch the block for the rods to clear. That also is not hard to do. I did it myself with a dremel tool. Save the money on the cam and do the vitara build. The turbo is up to you though if you want to go this route. Some people have luck with ebay turbos but I didn't. Now im turboless with a fully built vitara setup bottom end and stuck in Afghanistan for a year. And with no snail on that engine is like putting a briggs and straton lawn mower engine in it especially since the vitara pistons set you back to 8:1 compression. Good luck on the build and hope to see more from it.

 

Instead of wasting money on this build , why not just turbo + tune= and get way more power for just about the same money and perhaps even less.
Just my .02 cents, no one has to agree

 

im looking more into turbo builds too. ive heard people can run low boost on their engines between 8-10 lbs and still run low 13s. ive managed to find a good turbo kit for $700 but i couldnt find much of anything out about a cheap way to map it for turbo. everyone just says to go hondata or chrome but i dont have $300 to blow on a turbo tune. any recommended cheap(er) ways of doing this?

 

WTF is 8-10lbs? And if you can't afford to do the tune (the MOST important part of a turbo build) PROPERLY then save your money for other stuff. And I'd like to see this "good" turbo kit.

 

Except jdm d15b vtec rods are the same as a d16z6, meaning they share the same rod journal size meaning they no fit d15b7. d15b7 pistons have a comp height of 30.7mm and pg6 30mm p29's 29mm(zealautowerks) and a d15b7 rod is 134mm long and d16/d15b vtec 137mm long, how da **** this gonna work!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?

 

i have a z6 block if i do the NA setup i would be using that block (i should have mentioned this earlier) and by 8-10 lbs i mean psi. and your right if i cant afford the tuning then i shouldnt go turbo thats why i steered away from that originally

 

First lesson about turbo-PSI doesn't mean a damn thing. It's about the volume of air that the turbo can move-CFM. So if you haven't even picked a turbo then you can't even speak to PSI.

 

When ur planning a build and looking for advice, it's pretty ****ing important to say what ****ing motor your building. Do na first and learn from it, then do a boost build later. A noob+boost+fail tune=sad panda

 

This. 15psi on a gt28rs is not the same as 15psi on a gt30r

 

never said i was a technical genius bro im 19 years old d15b7 and d16z6 are really simular motors which is my mistake that i didnt mention it but if your gonna hate on my "noob" experience then maybe you shouldnt on my post. its as simple as that. although i am goin all motor and pistons have been ordered. although im still unsure about the rods that im suppose to use so im just buying new cx rods