hello i have a 95 integra auto ls....
its a dd so its pretty stock, anways went yesterday to get gas and as i want to leave no start i had a test light in my car so i checked for power to injector, its good, i still have spark, and i see the cams turn over so no broken timing belt so compression should be fine as everything ran fine before i went to get gas.. since the only thing i had was the tester light i plugged it in the injector to check for pulse and getting nothing... what could of caused this, changed the man relay with a working one, did nothing, checked all connectors and ground all seems good, and no cel...
ive searched but no one really gives and answer on how to fix this or diagnose this the threads just stop.. the only thing i havnt checked that well is the icm but according to a couple of people if you have spark that doesnt matter
i would appreciate any help
thank in advanced

 

Getting any codes/CEL?

Can you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds immediately after turning on the key?

 

No cel or codes

 

Again, can you hear the fuel pump primeing the fuel system when you turn the ign. on, [to run not start]?

You will need to answer all questions asked or it will be hard for any one of use to help you.94

 

Yea I the fuel pump is workin (I wrote that on the first post) it primes and to be sure I disconnected the return hose and saw gas pour out the fuel rail when switching the ignition on

 

You'd be better off testing with a cheap noid light than a bulbed circuit tester for injector pulse. You can also crank it a few times and smell the spark plugs for gas. If it's getting some gas it should turn over even if it's half-assed. If it's getting gas in the cylinders you need to make sure the spark it strong enough. So it wouldn't hurt to run through an ignition check.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html Also take a close look at your cap and rotor.

 

Either I am blind or you did not mention it on your first post.

However, if you are getting fuel from your return line then there is fuel pressure, and if you hear the pump priming then it is OK as is the PGM-FI Main Relay.

You say you have spark, how "good" is the spark?

You say you have no injector pulse, if you checked that with your test light and it is not an LED test light, [normal 12V light bulb] then the test is not accurate, a simple way is, as mentioned, try starting engine then immediately pull a spark plug and insect the end, if injectors are pulsing the plug will be "wet" with gas, it will smell of gas and you can light it with a lighter.

Also if you crank the engine with the plug removed gas will "spray" out the spark plug hole on the compression stroke.

Check for power at IPG1 and IPG2 at the ECU/ECM, [only two (2) yellow/black leads at the ECU/ECM] both must have power when ign. switch is on for injectors to pulse. 94

 

fcm is spot on but I would add if you're gonna pull your spark plug and wire to check for gas I would disconnect the 2P at the distributor to protect the coil.

You mentioned that your test for compression consisted of an assumption that if it was running before then the compression it OK. That is the opposite of how you should be thinking when troubleshooting a mechanical problem.

 

Yea I was thinking about that, taking out the sparkplug to see if it was wet, just didn't have any tools in my car since I was just getting gas. I will try that hopefully tomorrow assuming the car is still at the gas station
I'll do the compression test just to eliminate that posibility, of bad compression, completely
thanks for the input guys I'll keep you posted

 

Unless you've had flakeyness before (problems that come and then go), it sounds suspiciously like a coil failure; or ignitor. As fcm pointed out, some spark doesn't mean there's enough to jump the gap under compression.

Thing is with the ignitor/coil - you get no codes. Helps to use the volt/ohm meter to test the two parts and see if they appear to be functioning and in-spec (e.g. coil ohms on primary & secondary).

Mark

 

Great information posted in here fellas.....

 

Ok went back yesterday and it started up right away, went driving home and it started overheating got home went to get some water try to started again and samething happen no start, there is good amount of spark and fuel out of the injectors, ok so now my guess would be a blown head gasket, water leaking into the chambers would cause it not to ignite.. So could this be why I mean the signs of a head gasket aren't present but the overheating, no smoke, no milky dip stick.... How can I be sure without before taking out the head

 

If coolant is leaking into a cylinder you will have white smoke, [steam] if it's leaking into oil, oil will be "milky".

Also a blown HG from coolant "side" to combustion chamber will result in constant "boiling", [bubbling] in the rad.

Do a compression and leak down test.

The first thing I would check, [overheating issue] is to make sure thermostat is not stuck closed.94

 

I always do a compression test when solutions aren't immediately evident, but that's me. At least I know the worst info first. The overheating issue may be exposing an immanent ignition system component weakness like the coil or ICM. You have the ignition system check link I posted right?

You are certain you're getting good fuel pressure too? You should put a gauge on top of the fuel filter. The pressure you said you had when you popped the line may be residual pressure. That's why fcm asked if you could hear the fuel pump pressurize, main relay PCBs like to fail when hot also.

If you have to put water in and it’s not going into the cylinders, and I wouldn’t jump to that conclusion, you need to check your entire cooling system out.

I won’t go into that there’s more than enough info out there for that if you need it. Do the compression test anyway. GL sorry for your troubles.