i just got my d16z6 del sol running stage zero now i need performance. i already built a custom cold air intake (i know the heat shield looks ghetto but it works way better than the other honda kids hot air intakes down here). and a moshimoto aluminum radiator

right now heres what i have planned. any advice/suggestions will be appreciated and please dont tell me to go with a B-series swap im dead set on the N/A D series build:

Plans:
Ported d16y8 intake manifold
Performance header and full exhaust
Ported teggy throttle body
crane camshaft with adjustable cam gear
AEM fuel rail
MSD ignition (if necessary)
HKS Sparks
HKS 600cc low impendance injectors

 

i would say exhaust manifold\header & cat back exhaust would be next. Its not gonna add much power but you'll notice a couple more horsepower. Next i would work on the internal parts of the engine. Good luck!

 

Your dead set on a N/A D?
You better open up the wallet, and prepare to empty it.

Your going to need to go internal, meaning, cams,pistons, valve springs, etc.

 

yeah i know its gonna be expensive . i actually thought about buying a d16y8 head and then rebuilding it with a skunk 2 cam, valves, retainers etc. then swapping it in. i dont need it super fast. just something decent that could do good against other D series motors. im not so sure about the block yet. im looking for good flow also.

 

Why not turbo?

You want make a ton of power on just cams, you'll need the compression that the cams want. Not to mention the other stuff.

Biggest of all is tuning.

 

hmm. you do have a point. that would just make life alot easier to throw a turbo on there. taking that into serious consideration now. thankyou for the tip. and of course ill have to tune it. whats the max psi that i could run in the D? if you happen to know

 

This might help. It also might persuade you into Forced induction or engine swaps.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/guide-answer-common-question-just-bought-civic-how-do-i-make-faster-2915974/

 

thankyou alot Steezer and 98civdx, you guys changed my mind about the N/A build in less than 20 min. ill look into the turbo, ill kep the build posted over the next few weeks

 

BTW im only 16 just now getting into tuners, so im still new to this and have alot of things i still dont understand. but i have experience, i changed my headgasket last week with a haynes manual and this forum. whats a good turbocharger, ive heard good things from HKS

 

it's not that I was trying to change your mind, I was just wondering why your were dead set on N/A.

With a simple turbo setup, other odds and ends, a good tune. You could make more power on just a few psi with a proper sized turbo that N/A setup will make. Well, unless you throw 20k at it.


Sence you are 16 I highly reccomend taking it slow. A 16 yr old doesn't need that much power to get into trouble fast.

Make it look good/handle good and start saving and do the turbo setup correctly the first time. Trust me! I had friends in HS with turbo Honda's, all they did was get into trouble! One still doesn't have his licence back. Lost it when he was 17, not to get it back until he is 21. In 6 months. lol

 

AEM EMS, then the cam gear, maybe hold back $800 or so bucks at $100 an hour for dyno and tune between each modification.

Base all your mods off of the cam you are going to use, in your case Crane will be able to tell you what flow rates your head, intake manifold, and header need to support in order to optimize the whole package. They will also be able to tell you what static compression ratio the cam works best with.

Ferrea valvetrain stuff
S10029 Springs
E11010 Ti retainer (ask for matching locks)
F6068 Intake valve
F6067 Exhaust valve

If you want a very good header it'll need to be the last thing you get, and it should be custom built to improve performance. This could mean several builds to get the primary length and diameter correct, but the end result will be much better than a generic header.

As for the exhaust, 2" to 2.25" diameter is enough as long as the bends are on the largest radius that will fit under your car. Most aftermarket exhaust systems use a pretty tight radius bend where a larger radius bend would be better. Be ready to modify the exhaust if you are looking to get the most from your engine build.

I'm not a real fan of MSD products on Hondas, AEM has all the stuff you need to ditch the dizzy and go with coil on plug, this is the way to go.

You can look into some modifications to the PCV system, venting the crank case directly into the exhaust using a kit designed for this task can be a power adder for N/A engines.

You can go all old school and have the rods polished and shot peened, this will reduce their weight a little bit, maybe increase their strength slightly, and for a low output N/A engine it's not a bad idea.

Pick your injectors based on maximum airflow the cam is going to allow, and add around 20% so you aren't expected to go over 80% duty cycle.

An adjustable fuel pressure regulator would be nice.

Maurice

Damn I'm too slow!

 

so to get full effect of the parts ill want to base everything off the cam? whats this thing with "venting the crank case directly into the exhaust"? i plan on getting the whole exhaust custom built, im going with a turbo setup (i dont street race illegally) so first thing i want to do is get the cam? then find out the specs and buy parts based off of it, then get the turbo.

 

^^^^ What he said!
Honestly you should take it slow if your 16. im 17 and young and of course i want the best **** and i wanna be able to beat anyone but its unrealistic. The d series motors are excellent to learn on and i would say to keep the d for about another year to keep learning. My best advice would be to try to get a job and get an empty jar and write "TURBO OR BEAST MOTOR" on it and use that as a piggybank.
Stay active on here and you will learn alot!

 

The first thing you want to get is an engine management system, this allows you to tune the car at each and every step of modification.

If you were still going N/A picking a cam and basing everything off of that is a good way to build a strong engine.

You are now wanting to go F/I, thats great!

You still want to get the engine management system first.

Venting the crankcase to the exhaust on a N/A car involves using a special one way valve and fitting that is installed into the collector, the effect is negative pressure in the crankcase and a couple of HP, forget this if you are going F/I.

Going F/I is often touted as going the easy route, but it isn't exactly simple.

Set a power goal, then we can talk how to go about doing it the right way.

Maurice

PS. I'd hand the keys to my 19yo daughter and she would eek off at a minimal speed inching toward whatever the damn speed limit signs say, in my MX-6 which has enough power and traction to frag third gear if you didn't baby it. Age is not always a factor, I'll just pretend it does not exist, you all can claim it matters I just do not care about it.

 

alright so heres the plan. take the idea save up for the turbo. in the mean time tomorrow i will research a reliable engine management system find one and order it. then once its tuned right leave it alone til i can turbo it then get my setup right, find out how much power im wanting so i can start building from there. im gonna keep this build posted so look for it. i appreciate all the help i bet yall get annoyed with these honda kids who only know half their info lol. also i got offered a free black lip and integra spoiler but their black and my del sol is red. too ricey? and what about suspension/chasis anything i need to upgrade there?

 

Hondata s300!

 

I'm not 100% on the delsol suspension, and what does them good, but for the most part you want adjustability. You want a suspension that is free to move where it needs to move without binding but has as little flex in each component so it remains predictable and consistant.

Basic upgrades for a car of this age would be to replace all the worn out bushings lower it a bit but not so low that you lose all suspension articulation, install some nice coilovers (tein maybe).

Maurice

 

Neptune RTP.

 

Uh no. Absolutely wrong.

Set your horsepower goal FIRST.
More often than not it will be limited by the extent on which you build (or not) the engine.
This will depend if you have the budget to build the engine or need to keep it stock. Stock blocks (rods) can handle about 200-220hp safely before things start to break.

You need to pick a turbo that will get you to the goal you want.

You need to determine WHEN you want the power to come in at. Smaller turbo=quicker spool time=faster response. Just the opposite with larger turbos. It's all about the volume of air being moved NOT PSI!!!

Upgrade the injectors and fuel pump to handle the increased demand for fuel. Match the injectors to the horespower goal and leave a some room to grow. You don't want your injectors running at near 100% duty all the time. 440cc/450cc would be good enough for a stock block

Think of upgrading the clutch. Even with a small turbo pushing moderate boost the stock clutch will not be able to handle it.

Think about some form of crankcase ventilation. I know people say you don't need it at small power levels but I was able to blow out my PCV valve with a tiny Greddy 15g and 6PSI on it.

In any case, built or stock engine, install some ARP headstuds and a good headgasket.

Get gauges to monitor your engine. Minimum would be a Boost, oil pressure and wideband. These really are not optional.

Get a compression test on the engine before you put the first part on it if you are staying stock.

Think of the engine management BEFORE attempting to install all of this. <CROME> is free and <CROME> gold licenses are still being sold BUT the system is no longer being developed. You can get something like Hondata or Neptune or even a standalone like the AEM EMS that was mentioned but for the AEM be prepared to spend about a grand JUST for the unit. If you're not sure what to get find he person that will be doing the tuning and ask what they are most proficient on. This coupled with the quality of the parts you put on will determine your car's longevity. Unfortunately it's the aspect of the turbo build people think that they can do without, skip for a while or just do not budget for. A SAFC/VAFC is not an EMS. A "chip" is not an EMS.

Get it tuned!!! I don't care if it's just a street tune. Get one from someone that knows what they are doing. Not your "boy" up the street. DO NOT RUN ON A BASE MAP!!!

 

Wow.. OVERKILL!!

 

idk where the hell im gonna get it tuned at i live in one of the smallest citys in arizona. Midas is the only place i go because the one down here does alot with the guys that street race down here (Mostly Hondas) i want to go somewhere around 220hp on a smaller quicker spooling turbo (looking for better shooting off the line, not top speed) im going with the neptune RTP management system seeing that if im saving for a turbo and parts, its the best one in my budget. cometic head gasket and ARP head studs will be going in, fidanza v1 series clutch kit, dont know about fuel yet. pace setter high flow cat, better timing belt( mines off on TDC a bit) what about a boost controller? turbo timer? fuel management system? as for suspension i forgot to mention i already have installed TEIN coilovers on it and some BLOX control arms. its alreadly lowered, with brand new new CV axles. i usually run it on 91 octane since my timing is so advanced.

 

i will also look up on my crankcase ventilation regardless of what people say to be on the safe side.

 

You always need to run the highest octane you can find. The Neptune unit IS the fuel management system. Boost controller is not really necessary. Turbo timer is always a wise investment. Get a Walbro 255 and some 450-650cc injectors. Depending on the type of injectors you may need to run a resistor box. Use one step colder plugs. You may want to upgrade the radiator as well.

If your guy at Midas can do street tunes then there's nothing wrong with that, IF you trust him. I would get a chipped ECU and get a basemap put on it that will allow you to get to a real tuner probably somewhere in Phoenix. As long as you stay out of boost you will be fine driving there. I know I said DON'T run on a basemap but that was meant for people that chose to run on a basemap ONLY. The basemap is supposed to get you to the tuner, nothing more.

I forget where, but one of these places online can help you tune it but you pretty much have to keep sending your ECU out to them until they get it perfect

 

Oh yeah. 3" exhaust if you can get one.

 

thanks for the help grumblemarc now i know where im headed and how to get there. now you said something about a basemap. what exactly is that? im not too good with the car computers just the mechanics. i will research about the electronic parts so that i get a clearer view on it. ill talk to my midas guy about tuning it, now is this dynotuning you mean? if hes not able to then i will go out to tucson or phoenix and see where i can go down there. im going with HKS 600cc injectors, and cold sparks. my friend does alot of turbo project cars he will definently help me get it setup. fuel pump i will look into, i also need to get a new vtec solenoid and get the vtec running.