Jackstands for winter
Jackstands for winter
So I've read mixed reviews on putting cars up on jackstands for the winter months. Due to it being a theft deterrent and better for the tires I'll be going ahead with it. It will also give me easy access for brake jobs, tranny flushes, etc
My question is should I leave the stands under the 4 jack points or under the inner points of the suspension??? Appreciate any input (wheels will be off)
My question is should I leave the stands under the 4 jack points or under the inner points of the suspension??? Appreciate any input (wheels will be off)
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From: VA, USA
Re: Jackstands for winter
I've stored my ITR for 8-12 months at a time for the last 5-6 years and haven't a problem yet. I leave it on the ground with 50psi or so in the tires, crack the windows, disconnect the battery, change the oil, fill it with gas with an additive, clean it up, and put the cover on it.
Re: Jackstands for winter
^ I hear you man, like I said though, this is another security measure I'm taking to protect my investment. Layers upon layers even when it's stored.
As long on the the unibody (as our cars don't have frames) doesn't crack or bend I'm good. Shock are being replaced this spring so I could care less if the originals leak
As long on the the unibody (as our cars don't have frames) doesn't crack or bend I'm good. Shock are being replaced this spring so I could care less if the originals leak
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Re: Jackstands for winter
I've got a friend with one thats been on jackstands for about 6 years at the 4 jack point locations. Took it down last week for the 1st time and it had no issues. You'll be fine for the winter.
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Re: Jackstands for winter
So I've read mixed reviews on putting cars up on jackstands for the winter months. Due to it being a theft deterrent and better for the tires I'll be going ahead with it. It will also give me easy access for brake jobs, tranny flushes, etc
My question is should I leave the stands under the 4 jack points or under the inner points of the suspension??? Appreciate any input (wheels will be off)
My question is should I leave the stands under the 4 jack points or under the inner points of the suspension??? Appreciate any input (wheels will be off)
The cornering will be HORRIBLE, and I can't even see how you'll get the power to the ground.
New-old-stock Bridgestone Blizzak LM-25s for me man. They're round. They have stiff sidewall, and a great cornering feel. The car has less traction, but is just a blast in the snow! (much more fun than the jackstands, IMO).
Steve
Re: Jackstands for winter
How are you going to drive it using jackstands? I just don't get it.
The cornering will be HORRIBLE, and I can't even see how you'll get the power to the ground.
New-old-stock Bridgestone Blizzak LM-25s for me man. They're round. They have stiff sidewall, and a great cornering feel. The car has less traction, but is just a blast in the snow! (much more fun than the jackstands, IMO).
Steve
The cornering will be HORRIBLE, and I can't even see how you'll get the power to the ground.
New-old-stock Bridgestone Blizzak LM-25s for me man. They're round. They have stiff sidewall, and a great cornering feel. The car has less traction, but is just a blast in the snow! (much more fun than the jackstands, IMO).
Steve
Thats what my TSX is for, beater duty. My first ITR was a winter *****, this one is a garage queen w/ occasional track use
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Re: Jackstands for winter
You're not going to crack or bend a unibody with its own weight on points that were designed to lift it. That would be the worst design feature ever made. Those lift plates are 1/4" thick or thicker steel. If you dropped the car from a cliff, those plates would be the only unscathed parts.
I stored my S2000 like that last winter. Since that car is going to a heated storage unit this year and the tires on it are destroyed anyway, the ITR will be on jack stands. I believe that jackstanding the car is the procdure recommended in the owner's manual's storage section.
Someone mentioned that it might lead to leaky shocks. A lot of shocks are shipped and stored in the full extension position. I know my Konis were.
I stored my S2000 like that last winter. Since that car is going to a heated storage unit this year and the tires on it are destroyed anyway, the ITR will be on jack stands. I believe that jackstanding the car is the procdure recommended in the owner's manual's storage section.
Someone mentioned that it might lead to leaky shocks. A lot of shocks are shipped and stored in the full extension position. I know my Konis were.
Re: Jackstands for winter
You're not going to crack or bend a unibody with its own weight on points that were designed to lift it. That would be the worst design feature ever made. Those lift plates are 1/4" thick or thicker steel. If you dropped the car from a cliff, those plates would be the only unscathed parts.
I stored my S2000 like that last winter. Since that car is going to a heated storage unit this year and the tires on it are destroyed anyway, the ITR will be on jack stands. I believe that jackstanding the car is the procdure recommended in the owner's manual's storage section.
Someone mentioned that it might lead to leaky shocks. A lot of shocks are shipped and stored in the full extension position. I know my Konis were.
I stored my S2000 like that last winter. Since that car is going to a heated storage unit this year and the tires on it are destroyed anyway, the ITR will be on jack stands. I believe that jackstanding the car is the procdure recommended in the owner's manual's storage section.
Someone mentioned that it might lead to leaky shocks. A lot of shocks are shipped and stored in the full extension position. I know my Konis were.
Yeah I really doubt the suspension will have any issues being at full drop w/o wheels and tires. I guess I'll be the guinea pig this season.
As long as the uni-body is not at risk (which the general concensus is it will be fine) I'll prob do this every winter.
will be jackstanding for the winter
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Re: Jackstands for winter
This is for a civic but you get the idea should be same witht he R
Storing Your Car
(From 1997 Honda Civic EX coupe Owner's Manual)
If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than one month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. If possible, store your car indoors.
- Fill the fuel tank.
- Change the engine oil and filter.
- Wash and dry the exterior completely.
- Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.
- Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (5-speed manual) or Park (automatic).
- Block the rear wheels.
- If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground.
- Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).
- Disconnect the battery.
- Support the front wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.
- To minimize sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply a body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.
- Cover the car with a "breathable" car cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture, which can damage the paint.
- If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).
If you store your car for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months / 30,000 miles (48,000 km) maintenance schedule (Normal Conditions). As soon as you take it out of storage see this thread. The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.
(From 1997 Honda Civic EX coupe Owner's Manual)
If you need to park your car for an extended period (more than one month), there are several things you should do to prepare it for storage. Proper preparation helps prevent deterioration and makes it easier to get your car back on the road. If possible, store your car indoors.
- Fill the fuel tank.
- Change the engine oil and filter.
- Wash and dry the exterior completely.
- Clean the interior. Make sure the carpeting, floor mats, etc. are completely dry.
- Leave the parking brake off. Put the transmission in Reverse (5-speed manual) or Park (automatic).
- Block the rear wheels.
- If the car is to be stored for a longer period, it should be supported on jackstands so the tires are off the ground.
- Leave one window open slightly (if the car is being stored indoors).
- Disconnect the battery.
- Support the front wiper blade arms with a folded towel or rag so they do not touch the windshield.
- To minimize sticking, apply a silicone spray lubricant to all door and trunk seals. Also, apply a body wax to the painted surfaces that mate with the door and trunk seals.
- Cover the car with a "breathable" car cover, one made from a porous material such as cotton. Nonporous materials, such as plastic sheeting, trap moisture, which can damage the paint.
- If possible, run the engine for a while periodically (preferably once a month).
If you store your car for 12 months or longer, have your Honda dealer perform the inspections called for in the 24 months / 30,000 miles (48,000 km) maintenance schedule (Normal Conditions). As soon as you take it out of storage see this thread. The replacements called for in the maintenance schedule are not needed unless the car has actually reached that time or mileage.
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