01 GSR wont start after trying to tuck wires
Long story short, I was rewiring the headlight stuff on the passenger side (didn't even get to the driver side yet) and after putting everything back on that side, car will no longer start. My fuel pump won't humm and it cranks but won't start so I know i'm not getting any fuel. Now my question becomes, what did I mess up that is making me not get any power to my fuel pump, headlights and dash lights. my Check engine light also doesn't light up when I turn the key to pos. 2 . I've checked all the possible fuses and they are all good. I have a multimeter in hand but don't know what to test. please help... it's getting dark and i have to work tomorrow... I'm running out of ideas...
Ok well here's some pictures of what I was doing..
Oh also my windows won't go up either, so it's something that affected all my power.. I want to say the main relay but I don't even know if that also effects the windows and headlights and dash lights...

I was tucking my headlight wires into the fender pretty much and putting the ABS fuse box in the fender as well..

and I heard this relay click a few times when I was playing around with the little white box ( headlight grounds) and now it won't make any noise..

at least the ABS area looks better =/ ..

any ideas guys? I'm going to the junker in the morning if I get a positive culprit..
Oh also my windows won't go up either, so it's something that affected all my power.. I want to say the main relay but I don't even know if that also effects the windows and headlights and dash lights...

I was tucking my headlight wires into the fender pretty much and putting the ABS fuse box in the fender as well..

and I heard this relay click a few times when I was playing around with the little white box ( headlight grounds) and now it won't make any noise..

at least the ABS area looks better =/ ..

any ideas guys? I'm going to the junker in the morning if I get a positive culprit..
Oh also, I get lights that come on the dash and the car cranks if I try to start it.. but like I said, No power to the windows, headlights, turn signals, or fuel pump. no check engine light comes on at any time.
The SRS fusebox (you tucked) feeds power to the PGM-FI main relay; fuse 24, 15 amps.
If it's not re-connected or the wiring's been damaged in the move, you won't see power at C928/pin-5 (or C914/pin 7 of the integrated control unit) of the under-dash fuse/relay box - and that feeds PGM-FI (fuel pump), cruise control, O2 sensors/heaters, alternator, VSS, electronic load detector, and gauge assembly (cluster/dash).
So - the symptoms you list line up nicely with fuse 24 and the wiring back to the under-dash assemblies.. which comes *from* the SRS fuse block.
Tracy baby... trace..
Good luck,
Mark
If it's not re-connected or the wiring's been damaged in the move, you won't see power at C928/pin-5 (or C914/pin 7 of the integrated control unit) of the under-dash fuse/relay box - and that feeds PGM-FI (fuel pump), cruise control, O2 sensors/heaters, alternator, VSS, electronic load detector, and gauge assembly (cluster/dash).
So - the symptoms you list line up nicely with fuse 24 and the wiring back to the under-dash assemblies.. which comes *from* the SRS fuse block.
Tracy baby... trace..
Good luck,
Mark
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The SRS fusebox (you tucked) feeds power to the PGM-FI main relay; fuse 24, 15 amps.
If it's not re-connected or the wiring's been damaged in the move, you won't see power at C928/pin-5 (or C914/pin 7 of the integrated control unit) of the under-dash fuse/relay box - and that feeds PGM-FI (fuel pump), cruise control, O2 sensors/heaters, alternator, VSS, electronic load detector, and gauge assembly (cluster/dash).
So - the symptoms you list line up nicely with fuse 24 and the wiring back to the under-dash assemblies.. which comes *from* the SRS fuse block.
Tracy baby... trace..
Good luck,
So what should I do about the SRS box? check the wires that I re did or just put it all back? or is it just the fuse 24?
Mark
If it's not re-connected or the wiring's been damaged in the move, you won't see power at C928/pin-5 (or C914/pin 7 of the integrated control unit) of the under-dash fuse/relay box - and that feeds PGM-FI (fuel pump), cruise control, O2 sensors/heaters, alternator, VSS, electronic load detector, and gauge assembly (cluster/dash).
So - the symptoms you list line up nicely with fuse 24 and the wiring back to the under-dash assemblies.. which comes *from* the SRS fuse block.
Tracy baby... trace..
Good luck,
So what should I do about the SRS box? check the wires that I re did or just put it all back? or is it just the fuse 24?
Mark
The SRS fusebox (you tucked) feeds power to the PGM-FI main relay; fuse 24, 15 amps.
If it's not re-connected or the wiring's been damaged in the move, you won't see power at C928/pin-5 (or C914/pin 7 of the integrated control unit) of the under-dash fuse/relay box - and that feeds PGM-FI (fuel pump), cruise control, O2 sensors/heaters, alternator, VSS, electronic load detector, and gauge assembly (cluster/dash).
So - the symptoms you list line up nicely with fuse 24 and the wiring back to the under-dash assemblies.. which comes *from* the SRS fuse block.
Tracy baby... trace..
Good luck,
Mark
If it's not re-connected or the wiring's been damaged in the move, you won't see power at C928/pin-5 (or C914/pin 7 of the integrated control unit) of the under-dash fuse/relay box - and that feeds PGM-FI (fuel pump), cruise control, O2 sensors/heaters, alternator, VSS, electronic load detector, and gauge assembly (cluster/dash).
So - the symptoms you list line up nicely with fuse 24 and the wiring back to the under-dash assemblies.. which comes *from* the SRS fuse block.
Tracy baby... trace..
Good luck,
Mark
is this the box you're talking about?
Did you do anything with the grounds at the thermostat housing?
Drop the PGM-FI Main Relay and test for powers, there should be three (3) of them..
A 12V constant, hot at all times, most likely a yellow/white lead.
A 12V switched, hot in run and start, probably a yellow/green.
A 2nd 12V switched, hot during cranking only, probably a blue/white
The colors may not be correct, [98 Integra] but the 3 powers will, [must] be there. 94
Drop the PGM-FI Main Relay and test for powers, there should be three (3) of them..
A 12V constant, hot at all times, most likely a yellow/white lead.
A 12V switched, hot in run and start, probably a yellow/green.
A 2nd 12V switched, hot during cranking only, probably a blue/white
The colors may not be correct, [98 Integra] but the 3 powers will, [must] be there. 94
I figured out the problem after undoing and redoing everything over again, I was out there with a spot light going at it in the dark and cold lol
here's what I was trying to do...

I ran the white power cable from the ABS fusebox to the hole that's next to the fuse box when you take it out. I removed a plug that was there and cut a small piece (1/2" x 1/2") from the fuse box on the bottom part from where the wire was not clearing. on the other side of the ABS fusebox I had to extend the wire from 2 plugs to be able to reach all the way out to the fender.
Did you do anything with the grounds at the thermostat housing?
Drop the PGM-FI Main Relay and test for powers, there should be three (3) of them..
A 12V constant, hot at all times, most likely a yellow/white lead.
A 12V switched, hot in run and start, probably a yellow/green.
A 2nd 12V switched, hot during cranking only, probably a blue/white
The colors may not be correct, [98 Integra] but the 3 powers will, [must] be there. 94
Drop the PGM-FI Main Relay and test for powers, there should be three (3) of them..
A 12V constant, hot at all times, most likely a yellow/white lead.
A 12V switched, hot in run and start, probably a yellow/green.
A 2nd 12V switched, hot during cranking only, probably a blue/white
The colors may not be correct, [98 Integra] but the 3 powers will, [must] be there. 94

after I figured it out I felt pretty stupid that I missed something so small lol ... I was getting ready to go to the junk yard and spend some money..
How's the HID working for you?
Mark
hahah yea, the little stuff always turn out to make more work ... and the HIDs are great. no problems since i've got them.
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