So I finally got a good enough job as a mechanic at a first rate shop to support my addiction, and have decided to do a ***** out build for my 91 crx that I will track. The purpose behind the build will be a hybrid of sorts. I want it to look good enough to be in shows, fast enough to run low 11's/10's in the 1/4 mile, and be dependable enough and handle well to do some road racing and auto x. I know that's a asking a lot but I'm going all out on this one. This has been an on going project which started with dericeing a 91 crx I bought for $700 (you can see it all in my other build threads). I finally got rid of all the ricer problems and have now started on the body work which is much needed. I'm dropping in a D16z6 that is bored 75.5mm with eagle rods and low compression vitara pistons (I'm curious to see what they can handle) I don't think I'll boost more than 20 psi, especially for road racing. It has an eagle block guard and I will be boosting it with a gt35 turbo unless plans change. I also plan on running E85. The exterior paint job will be a special surprise and the engine bay will be tucked and one of a kind, I’ve never seen any bay the way I’m gonna do it Hopefully it will look as good as the picture in my head lol. You’ll all just have to stay tuned to see it. Another unique thing about my project is that I will be sitting on 15x9 Rota k7’s! I believe I got the last set of Royal sports gold in the US. They should be coming in this week. I’m super stoked about them. My brother is a hella flush certified master, who will be rolling my fenders to tuck those wide tires in.

 

Here's the sweet fenders that were on it.

 

It took me years but I finally found a pair of mint oem fenders for a good price.

 

Here's some test fitting.



Much better

 

One thing that sucks is I noticed how bad the passenger side side marker and light fit. The previous owner used one head light from a 90-91 and the other from an 88-89 so the bracket is wrong.

Passenger side


Driver side


Notice the difference with the tabs?

 

Onto the body work! First I cleaned the paint very well and then started the strip down. Followed by marking any imperfections in the paint including dents and high spots.





All the imperfections. It looks like it had hail damage as well as an assault from a baseball bat.



I think someone from the rebel alliance tried to carve their insignia here lol.






Good news is the passenger side has only one scratch and the fender wells are rust free.

 

Pulling out the dents with my trusty stud welder.



After the stud has been ground down.



Drivers side almost dent free

 

Changing gears. Onto the engine!

The donnor car



The D16z6


No way! I'm gonna have mad v-tak yo!

 

Looks like a great start and a good project Can't wait to see the results

 

Glorious riced-out Rex resurrection! Keep it up, man.

 

Pretty clean



Not so clean


Cylinder #3 had some coolant leak into it and left sitting for over a year...not good. You can see where it ate into the cylinder wall right where the rings seal.


I won't let that spoil my fun. A fresh hot tank, resurface, block guard, and bore and hone should fix it up nicely

 

z6's are fun little motors

 

Here's with the block guard and re-bore/hone.

 

Thanks guys, It's always fun to bring a car back from the dead

I'm hoping this one will be a monster!

 

I've got some new goodies!

Bead blasted valve cover, soon to be clear coated.

 

My wheels finally came! Fricken sweet



Look how wide these bad boys are, 15x9!

 

The test fit. Don't mind all the dust! I promise it's clean underneath.



Looks like I will have to use spacers as they hit the trailing arm and strut lol.

 

It's boost time!





Low compression pistons.

 

Anyone with experience; would you recommend getting ARP extended studs followed by spacers or get the one piece spacers with the studs already in them? Which is stronger and has a higher sheer threshold? My wheels have the notches in the back to allow for the one piece bolt on spacers so that wont be a problem.

 

in my experience the one piece designs tend to crack due to the torsional load put on them....the arp studs are pretty strong and if you have to use spacers i would use the straight through style that way the load remains on the steel studs ...the other style distributes the load through the aluminum and steel is stronger than aluminum....just my .02

 

Gl id like to see the outcome

 

Thanks for the info man, I'm gonna go with the ARP studs

Thanks man, I'm pretty excited about it myself

 

sounds like a really good build

 

yo dude build looks nice i like ur sweet wheels man!

 

road racing? are you going to be doing TT or driving on the track doing HPDEs? Not too sure on the tucking since if you are going "all out" on the track car. Depending on how you route your wires, may turn into a headache if you run into a problem and need to get it fixed in between sessions. 15x9 a really wide unless you're running flares. if you can, try to stay away from running an over stretched tire...don't want to loose that bead while taking a hard turn