Ok I'm new to the Honda stuff I use to run a eclipse and all I can say is so far I love my integra way more but any how to the point my car is a 2000 gsr when I bought the car it was turboed and now I'm fixing what he messed up I have the motor pulled right now and want to build it as big as possible this is the stuff I have for my car and if u could give me advice on what to do let me no thanks I have a aem fuel rail 650 injectors a skunk 2 pro series intake aem fuel regulated walbro fuel pump a 70 trim turbo and idk the make of the wastegateand a greddy type s bov the stuff I want to do is crower cams eagle crank with eather cp pistons and rods or crower pistons with eagle rods and crower valves with titanium springs with a 30x12x3.5 intercooler with a 50 trim turbo all ball bearing with bigger injectors not quit sure what I all need or what would b the best setup like I said I'm new to this so any help would b great thanks also I have heard that I would b better to run the stock crank but I'm not sure if that is true

 

You should explain exactly what was messed up to begin with? Why would you ditch the 70 trim for a 50 trim? And correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think crower makes pistons. Also, it seems like you already have everything that you want figured out so you really don't need our opinions. Just use ARP's on everything you can in the motor.

I'm not exactly sure what advice you are asking from us, like advice on which tuning system? Or what turbo setup you should run? Or internals you should use? Elaborate when you make posts like this.

 

Ok the 70 takes to long to spool and the pistons are all burnt up and yes I would like to no what I should run for a turbo setup and tuneing and yes ur right sorry I messed up crower I don't beleave makes pistons but I would like to no if the stock crank would b good to use or if I should ditch it and yes I planed on arp

 

Well if you were to build the head and arp the bottom end so it could rev to over 9k then spooling shouldn't be a problem, I wouldn't imaging it would take it over 5k to spool. I would run a gt35r on whatever manifold you want, with a tial wastegate. Depending on how well you build the motor, then you can think about how much boost you want to run.

As for the stock crank, you would have to inspect the journals for scores, and measure the journals with a micrometer to make sure they are all in spec. If they are not in spec you can just get the crank turned (machined)

I'm sorry but I hate when people build motors and DO NOT micrometer their crank journals and t-guage/micrometer their cylinder walls, it bugs the **** outa me! lol

I'm not directing that towards you, or saying you don't, but it's the majority of people I see on here re-doing their bottom ends.

 

Lol I no what u mean man but ya I measure all my stuff and if I build this motor the way I want to how much boost can the block hold up to because I really have no idea about the motor in this car and befor I took the motor apart the it would start to spool at about 4500 I wanted to try and get it to where it would start to at about 2500 if possible and would it be a good Idea to go with bigger valves ?

 

set a power goal and budget. coming from a previous boosted setup you should know psi is largely irrelevant without knowing the exact size turbo you'll be using. bone stock b18c's in good health can easily handle 300-350whp. since you're upgrading the internals the weak point now would be the sleeves. if you're thinking 400+whp then sleeves wouldnt be a bad option. any of the larger piston manufacturers and eagle or crower rods are a good proven cost effective start.

if you want a turbo that spools that low it's gonna be a smaller one and wont flow enough if you want that big power.

so think about what you want to do first

 

Trust me you do not want that.. If the turbo spooled at 2500 you will still have 6000 rpms left... That turbo wouldn't be proficient over 5000 rpms... I would keep the 70 trim, but that's just me. Or AT LEAST a 50 trim.

And I can't really say how buch boost the engine could handle because 1bar on a t25 is way different from 1bar on a 50 trim.

As for the valves, there is really no reason for them to be 1mm, the head flows perfectly fine as is.

 

CP Pistons= Crower Pistons.. jus sayin

 

Well I did say "correct me if I'm wrong" lol

Way to contribute to the thread btw

 

hahaha.. s'all good bro!

 

Ok cool and I'm at 254whp now and want at least 450 to 500 and ya good point on the turbo I think I'll stick with a 70 also I have a guy here that is going to sleeve and do all the head work for me but my biggest problem is idk what fuel to run and correct me if I'm wrong but ppl on Jdm were telling me that the crower stage 2 cams were a waste of money and I'd make more power on stock lol but thanks for all the advice it's always nice to talk to people who have done this and no what to do

 

crower and cp are not the same company

 

ohhhh yeeeeeeeeeeah..... My bad.. I stand corrected! I apologize.CP is Carrillo...

 

I WAS RIGHTTT!!!! YEEEEEEAA lol

to the op, for cams I would run Toda VTEC killers, not sure if they are more NA oriented, or boost friendly as well, but all in all they are GREAT cams.

 

Toda VTEC killer cams are not good on turbo setups. If you're looking to upgrade, i suggest something minor: ITR/CTR, Blox B, etc...There are several great, tried-and-true options available.

If you were to post this question (and word it a little better) in the Forced Induction Forum, you would get much more help with your situation. I'd offer to move this thread, but its too far gone...

 

Too far gone as in the way he typed it? Or the thread as a whole? I thought I gave some decent info. lol

 

aside from recommending vtec killers

 

long story short you can overpower the bottom end without changing ANYTHING. buy some ID1000s and tune on e85. a 50trim should max out a stock gsr right about 400whp. that's the limit of a stock bottom end anyway and even there it's not going to live long. ever notice how all the stock b18c's are tuned to 280-300whp that have gone 20k+ miles?

 

As I said after recommending them, "I'm not sure if they are more NA oriented, or boost friendly" implying he do some research on them.. I'm a dsm guy, haven't been into hondas all that long, so I don't know all that much about which part is good for NA or boost. My bad for the noob mistake lol

 

Ok well i was planing on building the bottom end but thought I'd ask to c if it was worth it and sorry I am a noob to this and if I build the bottom end would the motor still not last long ? And ya maybe I should move the forum I'm sorry

 

And what are I'd 1000

 

It all depends on WHO builds it and HOW WELL they build it, if you have never done a motor before let a shop do it. But if you know what you are doing then go ahead, but do a good job. It will last a long longer boosted with a built bottom end.

 

The opening post was the longest sentence ive ever read. LOL!!!!

OP- How do you know you have a 70 trim turbo? Are you looking at the number on the casting of the compressor housing? (.70 a/r)?

Also, keep this build simple.
-Wiseco pistons
-Eagle rods
-Good valve springs and retainers (Crower/supertech/skunk2)
-1000cc injectors (precision 1000's/ID1000s)
-ITR cams for your power range (as mentioned above)
-acl/clevite bearings
-Fuel choice (I would personally run ethanol if it available in your area. Burns much cooler and higher octane.)

BTW- Do not machine (turn) a OEM honda crank. If the crank is scored and cannot be cleaned up by micropolishing, throw it away and get a new one.

I see alot of misinformation in this thread. You should definatly search around the forced induction threads. Especially ones that "TheShodan" is in.

 

the shodan is a wonderful help and has more experience than 99.9% of the guys on the forums. the simple way to do a bottom end that will live is to just call golden eagle and order a sleeved bottom end assembled and ready to go. parts wise, don't get too hung up on wiseco vs mahle vs CP vs eagle vs manley, all the above will work just fine. for a head you can buy a new ITR head from some of the online acura dealers with cams for $1600 shipped. and or you could send your existing head to endyn or another quality shop for a rebuild.

traction is going to be your new problem with all of this.

 

Thanks guys and ya the turbo is .70a/r and sorry about my long sentence lol.but as for traction yes that will be the next step. I will be doing a lot more research on this as for this is my first 4 cylinder build. Maybe im getting in to to big of a hurry and my goal is a little high. Or maybe I just don't understand any of this as for I use to build v8 and got bored with them. So are u suggesting that I buy a block that is already sleeved, is that what u mean by a sleeved bottom end?. Like I said I have no idea what to buy or do