I wasn't thinking I'm putting my d16y7 head on and I turned the crank pulley when the timing belt wasn't on the cam gear you think I bent them?

 

You either did or did not. Take off the head and inspect.

 

The timing belt has to be on the cam gear in order for the valves to move. It depends on what position the head was in when you mated it to the block. Pull the head back off and make sure, this isn't something you want to guess at. Make sure everything is at TDC or else you WILL bend your valves.

 

Compression test

 

How can I tell?? Will it be enough of a bent that I'll see it And is it a big deal to take the valves off? And put new in

 

dam i was so close to being done with it and now this l0l

 

Not if you have a spring compressor. I have seen people use zip-ties to compress the valve springs to take the keepers off. Look at the piston for scratch marks. If the valve is bent, it will not seat properly.

 

I was thinking the same thing.

 

I'm saying I turned the crank Pully when the belt wasn't ont the cam so would the pistons bend the valves when they came up? I want a whole cycle thru on the crank pully

 

Did you feel resistance, hear anything? any scratching?

 

You would have probably felt the piston hit the valve. The way i always put on my cams all the valves are shut so this cant happen.

 

Yea I did feel some resistance very littl 4 valves were Bareilly open :/

 

You have to options really. 1 would be to pull everything off and check. 2. Would be to cross your fingers and run a compression test. I would personally go for 2 but thats just me.

 

Again, just install the timing belt and compression test the cylinders. You'll get the answer without removing the head.

 

The intake and exhaust manifold is off ATM just sitting on with the studs in it would take 10 mins to get it back off and I have some extra used valves now what's the best choice

 

You can do a compression test without them.

 

Sounds to me like you have made up your mind. Take the 10 mins and pull it off if that's what you want to do.

Personally I'd do the compression check. If it's good, it'll save you a head gasket.

EDIT: RonJ@HT beat me to it about not needing the manifolds

 

How do I do a compression test?

 

For ONCE look in the FAQs.

 

what are the "faqs" lol and nice new cat picture

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/faqs-frequently-asked-tech-questions-1998336/

Frequently Asked Questions.

 

When I had my last engine rebuilt the shop informed me that I had one slightly bent valve. They replaced it at a cost of ~$13 for the part. I asked if it was possible I bent the valve when hoisting the engine engine on/off the stand they said no it had been running that way. My compression was ok when I tested it shortly before the engine removal. The engine was removed because I had a very slight head gasket leak. Compression gasses were leaking into my radiator enough to cause coolant loss over time. The engine had over 200k hard miles on it so I opted for a rebuild and swapped in my spare engine.

Point being - engine can run and have acceptable compression with at least one slightly bent valve.

Caveat - the valve may have been warped/bent by the headgasket problem? I never saw any white smoke or oil contamination which leads me to believe the headgasket was only leaking gasses out and not coolant in (compressed/combusting gas leaks easier than vacuumed liquid?).

 

Maybe you had a bad head gasket and a stuck closed valve that didn't affect compression.

A valve hit by the piston, however, would invariably show compression loss.

 

0o ill check the valves but will i be able to notice if its bent without a tool or something?

 

If you're pulling off the head, spray brake cleaner into each port (ports facing up so that the liquid creates a pool inside of the port with the valves closed). If it leaks into the combustion chamber you have a leak. If it's damp, it's so so. If it's not wet, you have no leak (rough estimation of course).