i have an 96 SE integra and the only way i can start the car is by giving it a jump, when i try to start the car it sounds like the battery is dead but the radio and horn and everything still works and lights are all regular and once it starts i can drive for hours, so it cant be my alternator right?

 

You forgot to mention how you already tried another battery and it did the same thing. Like I said in PM, you have a parasitic draw. Purchase a cheap little multimeter and test it like I showed you how.

 

how much are multimeters? ive never looked for one sorry

 

i drove the car for about an hour then i got home and turned it off and about 2 seconds later i tried turning the car on and again it wouldnt start still sounded like the battery wasnt giving enough power and as soon as i unless i connect jumper cables to the battery it starts right up, any ideas of what might not be working right?

im gonna fully charge my battery today at autozone and see if it holds charge

 

You can get them as low as $10 at any auto parts place and most hardware stores.

A multimeter is a 100% critical tool for ANYbody who works on his own car. A mechanic without a multimeter is like a mechanic without sockets. Go get one.

 

he's right, theres something pulling an insane amount of power from the battery. Especially if the car is doing it even with another battery, tons of things could pull power enough to cause instant battery drain. For example:

1. defective car audio amplifiers are known for pulling unnecessary voltage draws. I come across Almani amplifiers frequently doing it.

2. defective Car alarms tend to do the same. They pull unnecessary voltage draws to power the alarms.

3. Radios sometimes have the same syntoms. They pull voltage when defective.

4. Aftermarket relays for HIDS, alarms, power window kits, window roll up modules, and other accessories.

5. bad battery terminals (usually due to corrosion or frayed wires).

6. starter pulling too much constant draw. The starter itself has no fuses as they are directly connected to the battery.

As for where to start first, go down the list i put and simply disconnect their harnesses to disable the devices. A multimeter would be your last case scenario, especially for an inexperienced person.

 

lol alright man, i use to use my brothers one but he moved out and he took it so its time to get one of my own, ill test everything out with it and see what it is

 

yeah i took off my amp but it kept doing it, i do have fog lights but i dont turn them on cuz of the battery problem, and im gonna disconnect the radio and anything else the car doesnt need to run and connect one by one and see which one it is thats causing this (if i cant get a multimeter)

 

Wit a multimeter you can easily and quickly see whether
1) the battery is able to keep a full charge,
2) the alternator is charging,
3) there is a parasitic load with the engine off, and where it is.

You can do very little electrical troubleshooting without a multimeter.

 

He stated the problem occurs even immediately after shutdown. I'm not sure any parasitic load could act that quickly.

I think either the battery is dead and is not capable of storing sufficient charge to start the car, or his alternator isn't charging.

 

Ditto the above^^^ a parasitic draw would not kill the batt. that fast, the problem is either a bad batt., a bad alt. or a main power/ground connection problem, because the car runs until turned off I would guess the alt. is OK, leaving the batt. or a connection as the problem.

So question(s)...

When engine will not start is there any power, [head lights, horn, dome lights] or anything that would normally work when ign. switch is off?

When you turn the ign. on, does the cluster light up, [oil light, CEL, gauges]?

When you try and start the engine do you hear anything, [clicks] from under the dash or from the engine bay?

If there is "some" power^^^ the first thing I would do is check the main power and ground connections...
Start by checking the main grounds, batt. post and clamp, batt, to chassis and chassis to engine grounds, do not just eyeball the connections, undo/disconnect them, clean both contact surfaces and reconnect making sure they are tight.
Do the same for the main power connections, batt. post and clamp, batt, to starter motor, batt. to engine bay fuse box, alt. charge lead at the engine bay fuse box and at the alt., [although I am pretty sure alt. charge lead connections are good check them anyway] a;so check the connections of the main fuses in engine bay fuse holder, they are the big ones that are held in place with screws, again do not just eyeball the connections, disconnect/clean/reconnect.

As has been mentioned, if you want to work on your car yourself, get a multimeter, $10-$20 will get you one that will do the job, a 12V test light is also a very handy tool $10 will get you a good one and you can find them for as little as $1.99, do not get the LED type 12V test light, get the one with a regular 12V bulb, they will be a lot cheaper and are much more useful. 94

 

The only problem with the multimeter is that (most lower ones) don't measure CCA - Cold Crank Amp.

Here are some simple numbers for OP when he check.

Battery should be at 12V+ higher when off.

Batter should be at 14+V when the engine is running. That means alt is ok.

Check the battery again one or two hours later. If it's not 12+V, then the battery is bad, and can't hold the charge.

Since you can't check CCA at home with your $25 meter, here is what you can do. Turn on your dome light. It should go dim when you crank. If goes dark, and there the CCA is not strong enough.

When you do get a Pro at the store to measure it. CCA should be at about 550 (or was it 450?) something like that. If it's in the 300+ range, you are pushing your luck.

 

ill clean everything ina bit and let ya know, and when i do crank it it doesnt click and dome lights hord radio and everything works even when i had my amp connected that would turn on too

 

"Hord"? What??

Does it dim when you crank or not? And if so, by how much?

 

Something could definitely be wrong with the cable going back to the battery from the alt. Because it keeps the car running after started, but it will not charge either battery you put in.

And as for what the CCA should be at, it depends on the rating of the battery, there is a little sticker on the batt. A lot of people just throw a battery in without comparing the CCA to what the manual for the car says it should be.

 

are you running a cap for your system?

 

If lights are working it is unlikely the batt. is the problem, looking more and more like a connection problem.

I would also try a bypass jump and starter circuit test...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...&highlight=fcm
... just in case it is just a problem with the starter or starter circuit. 94

 

friend hooked me up with an almost brand new battery and its been workking fine all day i guess the 2 batteries i tried werent working properly, sorry about that

 

Hey I'm trying to reply to your message but your inbox is full again somehow.

 

+1

 

When your car is at idle pull the negative wire off the battery and if the car dies its your alternator and if it doesnt die then your battery is dead or (no juice left).

 

I'm having the same issues with my 91 Integra. I changed the battery and the alternator and my battery still dies I have to plug it up to the battery charger and once I unplug it, it will stay running until the battery drains all the way and then die. When I have it running fine and the battery is charged once I unplug the negative terminal on my battery it dies. I checked the draw and it's coming from the number 36 fuse in the fuse box under the hood which is the right side power windows. When I plug the green plug into the box right in front of the passenger door it starts clicking and won't stop until I unplug it but it doesn't always do it. The relays next to the fuse box under the hood were clicking and wouldn't stop. I have no clue what's going on the car was stolen and they tried to hot wire it and they cut a bunch of wires under the dash and now all of these problems started happening. Any information will help thank u guys in advance! I highly appreciate it!