O2 Sensor Problem (Any assistance will be much appreciated)
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From: Between my mind and reality.
Here is some background on my car:
1993 Honda Civic DX
K20a2 Swap
PRB ECU
K-Tuned Immobilizer
Hybrid Racing Wiring Harness
Hybrid Racing Race Header
Custom Exhaust piping to Rsr Exmag Axleback
Primary o2 is 12 or so inches ahead of Secondary o2 ( 2.5" Piping, Resonator, No Cat)
Here is my problem:
After completing my swap I ran my vehicle open header to see how it sounded. Naturally I had a CEL stating that I was not getting a reading from my secondary o2 sensor as my exhaust system was yet to be fabricated. Yesterday I had my car sent to the local muffler shop and they made my setup which included my secondary o2 bung 12~15 inches after my primary. I then proceeded to install it on my vehicle and wire it up only to have my CEL on due to my primary o2 sensor. I used my OBD2 scanner and it gave me the code P0135. I was then told I could clean my primary o2 with some carb cleaner, which I did but also purchased another o2 in the event that the trick did not work; and that it didn't. Once I installed my new o2 I did not receive any codes until I drove my car around for about 10 mins, it now gives me code P0134. Throughout this fiasco my car has a tendency to bog under acceleration when I am at 3000 rpms, I'm getting gas mileage worse than a V10 car, and dies whenever I come to rest at an intersection or stoplight/sign. I've gone through the troubleshooting process in my HR harness manual in addition to searching online. I even came across a few threads in regards to grounding and something regarding the under dash and engine bay fuses (I couldn't find any definative information regarding what fuses I need to look for and change accordingly). Any assistance on the matter will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Jeff.
1993 Honda Civic DX
K20a2 Swap
PRB ECU
K-Tuned Immobilizer
Hybrid Racing Wiring Harness
Hybrid Racing Race Header
Custom Exhaust piping to Rsr Exmag Axleback
Primary o2 is 12 or so inches ahead of Secondary o2 ( 2.5" Piping, Resonator, No Cat)
Here is my problem:
After completing my swap I ran my vehicle open header to see how it sounded. Naturally I had a CEL stating that I was not getting a reading from my secondary o2 sensor as my exhaust system was yet to be fabricated. Yesterday I had my car sent to the local muffler shop and they made my setup which included my secondary o2 bung 12~15 inches after my primary. I then proceeded to install it on my vehicle and wire it up only to have my CEL on due to my primary o2 sensor. I used my OBD2 scanner and it gave me the code P0135. I was then told I could clean my primary o2 with some carb cleaner, which I did but also purchased another o2 in the event that the trick did not work; and that it didn't. Once I installed my new o2 I did not receive any codes until I drove my car around for about 10 mins, it now gives me code P0134. Throughout this fiasco my car has a tendency to bog under acceleration when I am at 3000 rpms, I'm getting gas mileage worse than a V10 car, and dies whenever I come to rest at an intersection or stoplight/sign. I've gone through the troubleshooting process in my HR harness manual in addition to searching online. I even came across a few threads in regards to grounding and something regarding the under dash and engine bay fuses (I couldn't find any definative information regarding what fuses I need to look for and change accordingly). Any assistance on the matter will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
-Jeff.
The secondary O2 sensor must be placed behind a proper cat.
Several inches behind the primary is not going to work. I will cut and paste my Primary O2 wiring diagram here for you in just a few mins.
Several inches behind the primary is not going to work. I will cut and paste my Primary O2 wiring diagram here for you in just a few mins.
OK guys, I see alot of questions and problems with Primary O2 wiring.
This post will show you the correct info to check your conversion harness if you are having problems. This should help out several members.
This little pic is the wire side of the primary O2 sensor plug. Clip is above the 1 & 2 positions. Pins & plug facing away. Wires coming out towards you.
1 2
3 4
The 4 wires on the Primary O2 need to go to:
1 - Primary O2 signal +
Continuity to C101 pin 19 (from there the wire goes over to ecu A6)
2 - Primary O2 ground -
Continuity to C101 pin 13 (from there the wire goes over to ecu A16)
3 - Primary O2 Heater signal +
Continuity to C101 pin 15 (from there the wire goes over to ecu A22)
*NOTE: This wire is also divided and leads into a relay. I plan to add the relay information a little later.
4 - Primary O2 Heater ground -
Continuity to C101 pin 10 (from there the wire goes over to ecu pin A1)
However In some swap harnesses I have seen this wire pinned directly to K-series ecu pin E4. That also works as an appropriate heater ground.
*NOTE: 1 & 2 MUST be wired to the above correct locations for Kpro to properly read and display the A/F readings.
*NOTE: 3 & 4 Can be reversed. The heater will still operate without a problem.
This post will show you the correct info to check your conversion harness if you are having problems. This should help out several members.
This little pic is the wire side of the primary O2 sensor plug. Clip is above the 1 & 2 positions. Pins & plug facing away. Wires coming out towards you.
1 2
3 4
The 4 wires on the Primary O2 need to go to:
1 - Primary O2 signal +
Continuity to C101 pin 19 (from there the wire goes over to ecu A6)
2 - Primary O2 ground -
Continuity to C101 pin 13 (from there the wire goes over to ecu A16)
3 - Primary O2 Heater signal +
Continuity to C101 pin 15 (from there the wire goes over to ecu A22)
*NOTE: This wire is also divided and leads into a relay. I plan to add the relay information a little later.
4 - Primary O2 Heater ground -
Continuity to C101 pin 10 (from there the wire goes over to ecu pin A1)
However In some swap harnesses I have seen this wire pinned directly to K-series ecu pin E4. That also works as an appropriate heater ground.
*NOTE: 1 & 2 MUST be wired to the above correct locations for Kpro to properly read and display the A/F readings.
*NOTE: 3 & 4 Can be reversed. The heater will still operate without a problem.
K-pro will solve ur problems...... i also ran over a year with a K20tuned k-swap ecu which is a PRB ecu with immobiler deleted and secondary 02 deleted..... ran with no hickup and idle great. Buy either of those and it will solve ur problems.
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redpeppers
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Sep 24, 2005 06:17 PM




