Looking for some info about replacing my upper ball joints on my 02 accord, 4 cyl. I have been searching around but wasn't finding definite answers.

1. Can I retain the oem uca and just press the old joint out and the new one in?

2. If I just take the uca out do I need an alignment?

3. If I do the upper joint should I do the lower one as well?

4. Should I do the upper on both sides?

 

1. Yes, but you might as well get the complete arm with the ball joint already attached.

2. WORDS of WISDOM: Anytime you are dealing with suspension, get a alignment. When I changed mine, I didn't get a alignment and took it in a couple of months later, still within spec.

3. If it is bad and money allows, yes.

4. YES

 

Basically what Kevs02Accord said.

1. Yes, you can press your old upper ball joints off and press new ones in no problem. Here in my area, they want $95.00 a piece for the whole upper control arm with ball joint!

2. No, you will need one if you removed your shocks/struts assembly though.

3. Only if the lower ball joints are bad then do them.

4. You don't have to if the other one is in good shape; no ball joint looseness nor torned boot.

 

If the uppers are bad the lowers are most likely in worse shape.
The lower BJ 'sees' the combined shock loads, spring pressure and weight of the vehicle.

 

Sounds good. Are the lowers a press out press in kind of thing, or do they sell lower control arms with the joint in them? Can I do anything useful with the uca or is it just to the scrap yard?

 

The lower BJ is actually pressed into the upright/knuckle/spindle. The tapered portion inserts into the FLCA pointing down, and the nut is under the FLCA.
The bitch of it all, is that you pretty much have to disassemble the whole front end to replace those Lower BJs.

Tools
Sockets: 10;12;14;15;17;19;36mm
Box end: 12;14;17mm
5lb single jack. (aka 5 lb mini sledge)
Needle nose pliers
Two-Four sturdy jack stands
Floor Jack.

Procedure
Remove engine splash shield.
Remove hubcaps
Un-stake and loosen CV axle nut.
Loosen front lug nuts.
Jack front of car up at front jack point, place jackstands under frame rails.
*If using four, the other two under the front beam bolts at the corners.*
Remove front wheels.
Remove axle nut
Remove flexible brake line bolts to shock, remove line from shock.
Remove flexible brake line bolts to knuckle, remove line from knuckle.
Remove ABS sensor(if equipped) bolts to knuckle, remove sensor.
Remove caliper cage bolts to knuckle(not caliper to caliper cage bolts).
Between the fender lip and upper shock mount there will be a plastic plug, remove it.
With tie wire or twine, tie it around the large center hole in the front caliper, and the other end to the upper shock mount. Hang caliper up high, make sure not to bend/twist flexible brake line hose.
Remove sway bar end link
Remove cotter pins from tie rod, upper BJ and lower BJ castle nuts.
Remove tie rod nut, flip, reinstall so the flanged part is flush with the stud. Strike with a hammer to pop tie rod free. Remove nut, remove tierod.
Remove upper BJ nut. Flip and reinstall it so it is flush with the bottom of the stud.
Strike with a hammer to pop the upper BJ free. Leave nut on for the moment.
Remove lower BJ nut. Flip and reinstall it so it is flush with the bottom of the stud.
Using a floor jack, place the cup directly under the inverted nut and jack the arm up via the nut. It should pop free, you may need to strike the lower control arm with a hammer with a stubborn stud. Lower jack. Remove nut, remove BJ from FLCA.
Remove upper BJ nut.
Pull knuckle away from the body, and remove the stub axle. Be careful of outer CV boot.
Reinstall lower BJ nut flipped with flange and stud again flush.
Check for snap ring or other locking device on lower BJ, remove if applicable.
Place knuckle assembly rotor side up on 4x4 block, with bearing resting on block.
Step on rotor, strike lower BJ with hammer to remove from knuckle.
Press new lower BJ into spindle.
As for the upper BJ, depending on what kind of tools you have and what condition the bushings on the FUCA are in, you may want to just purchase the FUCA as an assembly with new upper BJ and anchor bolts rather than wasting time/money on rebuilding the arm.
On Rock Auto the Moog upper BJ ~$45 each. Complete upper arm is ~$73. Some anchor bolt kits are nearly as much as the arm itself.

 

Great write up mang, I appreciate that. I don't remember it being that many steps last time I had to do my sisters wheel bearings. I am almost thinking if I have the whole knuckle off I should just do the wheeling bears, and maybe cv axles, car has 140k. Yeah after looking at prices for the ubj and shop fees it would be just as much to buy a new one, except I would have new nuts / bolts / bushings in the new one. I ll have to price a new knuckle with the wheel bearing and lbj in place to see how that comes out. Anything else I should change if I have the cash while I am in there?

 

Another question, I am pricing these parts out. Are the bushings for the UCA available? All I am seeing is the whole UCA with the UBJ included. I realize the bushings would need to be pressed, or I am guessing, but what would a replacement be?

 

uca come complete ready to install. not sure what you would need bushings for.

 

So I could keep the original uca and just press new bushings into it.