oil recommendation for high mileage D
I just inherited a stock 98 LX with 190k on the clock and plan on driving it cross country next week. Motor runs like a champ, but I don't know what type of oil it was usually replaced with. Anyway, I'd like to hear recommendations from owners with 200k.
Thanks.
Thanks.
I have 300K unoffically because of my speedo not working, and I use Castrol High Mileage 5w-30 during the winter months, than when it warms up 10w-30.
synthetic gets into all the small little places better then regular... while this sounds like a good thing... on and older motor, this will more than likly cause it to leak more oil (chances are it already leaks some)
I can vouch personally for this... i picked up some full syth a while back and ended up being a quart low after 2k miles... im normally onel 1/2 by the next oil change (needs a new oil pan gasket... among other things)
I can vouch personally for this... i picked up some full syth a while back and ended up being a quart low after 2k miles... im normally onel 1/2 by the next oil change (needs a new oil pan gasket... among other things)
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Penzoil 5w30 High mileage with an OEM (filtech) filter. If you don't get and OEM filter get a WIX, or Mobil 1 extended performance. Penzoil is excellant oil. It's ranked #2 compared to AMSOIL. Pick some up at Wallmart for $18 5 quart jug.
If you really want to read up on oil, check out bobistheoilguy.com
If you really want to read up on oil, check out bobistheoilguy.com
approx 220k here, I run castrol 5w30 year round. No high mileage bull ****.
No need for it.
Car runs perfectly, burns about half a quart (+/-) between oil changes.
No need for it.
Car runs perfectly, burns about half a quart (+/-) between oil changes.
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From: san diego, ca, united states
dude all the post ive read you that you made are wrong where are you getting your info at???? leave your opinions out of it and **** what you heard or what your homie said . stop spreading wrong or misleading info

I don't know where you heard that messed up clearnaces thing, but it's not true.
I have swapped back and forth, now only running conventional, and my engine is perfectly fine.
i use 0-30 mobil.
if its leaking replace the damn seals lol.
jus tbecause its manufacturer recommended 15 years ago doesnt mean its the best to use still, there are better choices available such as 0w sseries oils.
if its leaking you are forced to use thicker oil
on cold startups it will wear your engine quicker, shortening your engine life even more.
increasing wear on battery and starter.
i would invest 30 dollars on a bottle of autoRX. in few cases it helped stop the oil leaks
read this page, lotsa good info.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
just for reference. i had 2 bad bearings in my d15b.
yes i went to junk yeard and pulled 2 used bearings of same color code and put it in my engine because it wasnt worth buying new bearings for it
the crank was scuffed.
i put the recommnended 5-30 in it for a first 2 weeks only to hear a very bad knock..from both bearings. cold starts were horrible
i then replaced it with 0w-30 mobil and the knock went away only heard it knocking when it was really really cold and car sat for few days.
drove the car for 8 months or so before replacing the engine.
every day to work and to oak harbor from lynnwood etc.
raced few cars with it and finally after few months of beating on it the knock came back so i pulled the motor.
same in my wife's car the engine has a slight rod knock but its not getting worse and she doesnt go over 4000 rpm ever so its fine now.
if its leaking replace the damn seals lol.
jus tbecause its manufacturer recommended 15 years ago doesnt mean its the best to use still, there are better choices available such as 0w sseries oils.
if its leaking you are forced to use thicker oil
on cold startups it will wear your engine quicker, shortening your engine life even more.
increasing wear on battery and starter.
i would invest 30 dollars on a bottle of autoRX. in few cases it helped stop the oil leaks
read this page, lotsa good info.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com
just for reference. i had 2 bad bearings in my d15b.
yes i went to junk yeard and pulled 2 used bearings of same color code and put it in my engine because it wasnt worth buying new bearings for it
the crank was scuffed.
i put the recommnended 5-30 in it for a first 2 weeks only to hear a very bad knock..from both bearings. cold starts were horrible
i then replaced it with 0w-30 mobil and the knock went away only heard it knocking when it was really really cold and car sat for few days.
drove the car for 8 months or so before replacing the engine.
every day to work and to oak harbor from lynnwood etc.
raced few cars with it and finally after few months of beating on it the knock came back so i pulled the motor.
same in my wife's car the engine has a slight rod knock but its not getting worse and she doesnt go over 4000 rpm ever so its fine now.
Valvoline Maxlife 5W-30
With as many miles as you have, I wouldn't use Synthetic cuz it could leak/burn/plus it's kinda overkill on a (stock) D-series.
I use the Synthetic version on mine, but I have a rebuilt head and new seals, so no leaks here (except for that pesky front main/oil pump, but that's another story XD; )
But yes, I recommend Maxlife for higher mileage vehicles
Resists burning and helps recondition your seals a bit
With as many miles as you have, I wouldn't use Synthetic cuz it could leak/burn/plus it's kinda overkill on a (stock) D-series.
I use the Synthetic version on mine, but I have a rebuilt head and new seals, so no leaks here (except for that pesky front main/oil pump, but that's another story XD; )
But yes, I recommend Maxlife for higher mileage vehicles
Resists burning and helps recondition your seals a bit
so the oil pump seal leak is common on d series(d16y7 to be more specific)?
i just rebuild one and its leaking from there.
is there an article or something here about it?
i just rebuild one and its leaking from there.
is there an article or something here about it?
(meaning it's going to go sooner or later ^^; )
I honestly have no idea
As for an article on it....again no idea, I just know you have to take your timing belt and crank pulley off to unbolt the pump and replace the seal
(best to do that at your next timing belt/water pump change and get it done all at once unless the leak is REALLY bad)
As for it leaking soon after replacing...I KNOW you can't score up that pump too much or else the seal won't set in there correctly...idk without looking at it and I've never even done my own so I wouldn't know what to look for anyways XD;
Sorry dude
no prob just asking , i jsut too lazy to do it haha, did 3 rebuilds/swaps in last 6 months and finished building my gsr. taking a brake now lol my back and brain is hurting and so is my wallet.
High mileage oil is 
Stick with Honda recommendation... 5w30
FYI:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_chart.jpg

Stick with Honda recommendation... 5w30
FYI:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_chart.jpg



