im lookin for a b20 to swap into a crx but im tryin to find one thats capable of holdin up to a little boost. ive heard ALOT of people say b20's are not good for it because the sleeves.

is it true?

and is there any particular b20's that are better then the others?

i found a B20a5 for $200 (assuming its the whole motor i aint checked it out yet)

and also i dont want to have to swap to hydro clutch/ digi speedo but i will if i have to. id rather do that then have a shitty motor



PS: sorry if i ask some questions that seem studip or whatever. kinda new to the honda scene got my first honda a few months ago. i dont cry at constructive critisim but please dont bitch on my post at me or other people

 

You can not use a B20A, that is the crappy (and different) engine from the very old Prelude

If you are going boost, just p/u a B18A/B, as it will hold up better than a B20B/Z

 

B20 sleeves are more brittle than the other B series... not thinner like everyone thinks. You can boost practically any engine as long as the tune is good. As said before, You would be MUCH better off getting a B18A/B than a B20 if you're going to boost it. If you want N/A and possible LS/V - there is no replacement for displacement...

 

It is not exactly that the sleeves are more brittle, it is more of how they are mounted in the block during manufacturing....but because of this, they are weaker under load conditions such as boost. Here is a shot of of a B20B block. It looks pretty much the same as the B18

 

Odd.
How are they weaker because of how they are mounted in the block?
Please explain.

 

The "Old One" at ENDYN must be a complete idiot then, huh? I feel you have some reading to do... (If you don't want to read it all it's about 1/4 of the way down he talks about it.) You should inform him of this misinformation.

http://www.theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/

 

wow, calm down! What's with the name calling and idiots? I have some literature to go through i have saved on some old files on my other hard drive from when i worked at Honda. I wasn't making fun of you or anything...i was simply saying that Honda mounts the sleeves on B20's differently than B18 engine, and they are a little weaker.

please stop the hate.....i will add some info to this thread in the next day for you

 

What name calling? All he said was the Old One at Endyn must be a complete idiot. He never said you were. Although it might have been implied.

 

Well, i'm not a noob by any means, and have built many engines myself over the years, including B20's. I would consider his response to mine, a negative one, you could have just asked........

 

There you are saying they are weaker and they are mounted differently.
That's not what you said in your first post.
You said they are weaker because of how they are mounted.

 

Maybe it is how i am wording it....

the sleeve itself is not the problem, it is how Honda mounted the B20 sleeve to the block from factory. I wish i had the info in front of me, but i need to dig it up 1st.

Anyway, i wasn't trying to stir up a big controversy...never had this issue on these boards before

 

the sleeves are thinner i thought. thats why they were weaker i thought. i got a friend i race with he had a turbo b20 in his crx and he was a ****in rocket. ran a 12 with a cracked sleeve when it blew one day on the track.

 

Simply put, it's in the tune, and like anything else, if you beat the **** out of it every day, it's going to break.

Have it put together with quality parts and have it tuned by a reputable tuner and you'll have plenty of fun

 

Read this article and you will notice how the sleeves are mount differently in a b20 compared to a b18. It is this mounting process when under boost cracks sleeves.
http://dwolsten.tripod.com/articles/jan96a.html

 

This fully shows exactly what I was talking about when I said they are more brittle... Also - its not the boost as much as its cylinder temperatures/detonation.

"Deetz" - I think you are the one that needs to calm down. I am not excited or upset... if you are going to post information then word it properly. What's the point of trying to correct someone if you don't have your facts straight in the first place? You must understand that the B20 is a mono-liner (mono-sleeved) block. Therefore, the "sleeve" (since it is one piece) is more brittle; be it the fusion process of the block or each cylinder. As I previously stated - the cylinder walls are not "thin" like everybody always states, and your picture clearly shows.

P.S. - All this said with a smile; no foul/negative intentions implied... you are too precarious.

 

It's all good man, i think we were both trying to get at the same thing

 

this thread turned out to be incredibly informative. Thanks.

 

had a b20 turbo integra. 13lbs all day fro 2years before I sold it. It was tuned by cmb tunning. Never had any issues at all

 

wow. thanks for all the info. so do you think if i got a B20. not sure which one, prolly B or Z. turbo'd it on stock internals at like... 12lbs, would it hold up as a daily drive with the occasonal trip to the 1/8th mile? buddys CRX with the boosted b20 puttin out over 350whp on stock internals holds up fine and he gives it hell at the track. he blew his tranny to pieces befor the motor gave up...

 

Either the B or Z will be fine. Remember, tune it and put the money towards the supporting mods and you'll love it.