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My Green Goblin

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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 03:45 AM
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Icon3 My Green Goblin

Well its been about 4years since I've owned a car, due to the fact I moved to a different state straight out of high school on my own, and partied for 2years of my life, ended up joining the military and getting station in Germany.

Its a 96 GS-R, all stock from what I can tell, but needs some tlc.


I'll upload more pictures, when I get time.

Problems that are known,
Windows and power locks don't work. thinking its the main relay.
CEL is on, need to find out what code its popping, and my major problem would be it doesn't want to shift into gears at high rpm's, i'm thinking its the clutch master cylinder, but the guy i bought it off of says it could be the transmission synchronizer, can anyone put in any input to help me out?
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:15 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Power windows and power locks are on diff. circuits, power windows are on an ign. circuit, [hot in run], there is a relay for the power windows, the power door locks are on a 12V constant circuit, [hot at all times] and controlled by the "Power Door Lock Control Unit".

The first thing I would look for is damage to wiring in the drivers door wire boot, [harness that runs from door to cabin in the door jamb] damage to wiring in the door boot is common, more so in drivers door as it is the one that is opened/closed the most.

The best way to inspect the wiring is to, remove door panel, remove speaker and speaker housing, unplug the harness at the "A" pillar and pull the harness into the door and out the speaker opening, that will allow to "un-tape" the boot and slide it down the harness so you can see the wiring in the boot.

Obviously the best fix is to replace the door harness, a new one will not be cheap and finding a used one without the same problem, could be a problem.
A cheaper fix is to repair the wiring, installing butt connectors is not an option, solder and shrink tubing is the best option.

Again, obviously you need to check fuses first, do not just eyeball the fuses, test them or replace them with new or known working fuses...
PDLCU fuse is fuse 6 - 20A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
Power window fuses...

Main fuse is fuse 36 - 50A, hot at all times] in engine bay fuse box.
Main relay fuse is fuse 14 - 20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
Window fuses are fuse 5 - 20A (drivers) and fuse 8 - 20A (passengers), [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box, relay is also in under dash fuse box. 94
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 06:40 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

sounds to me that the shifting problem could be in the tranny, if was the clutch master cylinder you should see the same or near the same problem at low rpm. the clutch being pressed is irrelevant to engine rpm.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 08:24 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Originally Posted by fcm
Power windows and power locks are on diff. circuits, power windows are on an ign. circuit, [hot in run], there is a relay for the power windows, the power door locks are on a 12V constant circuit, [hot at all times] and controlled by the "Power Door Lock Control Unit".

The first thing I would look for is damage to wiring in the drivers door wire boot, [harness that runs from door to cabin in the door jamb] damage to wiring in the door boot is common, more so in drivers door as it is the one that is opened/closed the most.

The best way to inspect the wiring is to, remove door panel, remove speaker and speaker housing, unplug the harness at the "A" pillar and pull the harness into the door and out the speaker opening, that will allow to "un-tape" the boot and slide it down the harness so you can see the wiring in the boot.

Obviously the best fix is to replace the door harness, a new one will not be cheap and finding a used one without the same problem, could be a problem.
A cheaper fix is to repair the wiring, installing butt connectors is not an option, solder and shrink tubing is the best option.

Again, obviously you need to check fuses first, do not just eyeball the fuses, test them or replace them with new or known working fuses...
PDLCU fuse is fuse 6 - 20A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
Power window fuses...

Main fuse is fuse 36 - 50A, hot at all times] in engine bay fuse box.
Main relay fuse is fuse 14 - 20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
Window fuses are fuse 5 - 20A (drivers) and fuse 8 - 20A (passengers), [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box, relay is also in under dash fuse box. 94

thanks for your input, i'll look at it tomorrow after work :D

Originally Posted by 89luderSi
sounds to me that the shifting problem could be in the tranny, if was the clutch master cylinder you should see the same or near the same problem at low rpm. the clutch being pressed is irrelevant to engine rpm.
at high rev's it feels like i cant find a gear to either up/down shift. it happens from time to time.
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Old Nov 2, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

cel was code 22, guessing I got low oil and will be filling up after work.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 04:29 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

A little update, fixed my CEL, so i'm vtaking around Europe :D. tranny starting to act nice and go into gears.
but still having a issue with windows/locks/mirrors, owner before me installed alarm system and i guess that screwed everything up. so i'ma going to have to have someone else with this knowledge to look at it when i get a chance.

kinda hung over from the night before so heres a little tease of the green goblin.
Enjoy!


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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 09:13 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Should be a fun car once you get it running. Nice to see a stock GS-R on here. Also Euro plates > NA plates

I had the same power windows/doors problem and the ground pulled out of the wiring harness connector in the driver door area. If windows/doors/mirrors are all out the only thing they have in common is a ground, so check that. I moved the ground to the door and problem solved.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 07:15 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qBfZ-aIgyWo
me on the autobahn, roads wet+winter tires.
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 12:34 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Whatd u get it up to? lol, i wanna go there sumday..... so badass
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Originally Posted by alldayda9
Whatd u get it up to? lol, i wanna go there sumday..... so badass
that run 130, but later on that day got it up to 150
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 03:20 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Lol not 150, not in a stock GS-R. Whatever the speedo said you weren't going 150!
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Old Nov 10, 2011 | 09:55 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Originally Posted by GagnarTheUnruly
Lol not 150, not in a stock GS-R. Whatever the speedo said you weren't going 150!
flame on?
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 07:38 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Not flaming, just facts. You need close to 250 hp to go 150 :/
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 09:39 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Originally Posted by GagnarTheUnruly
Not flaming, just facts. You need close to 250 hp to go 150 :/
well i have people with me, that can vouch. idc what you think you know.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 09:47 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

you do not need 250hp to go 150mph.... just a measure of how fast you will get to 150 is a function of power. Prob took him like 2 min+ to get to 150 lol
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Of course you need power to go fast. At high speed you need enough power to counteract deceleration caused by wind and road resistance. GS-Rs top out at about 130 mph in stock form. You'll never be able to do much better than that unless you are going significantly downhill.

OP, not sure why you're getting bent out of shape over this... Laws of physics > your speedometer, which is not accurate at those speeds anyways.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Originally Posted by GagnarTheUnruly
Of course you need power to go fast. At high speed you need enough power to counteract deceleration caused by wind and road resistance. GS-Rs top out at about 130 mph in stock form. You'll never be able to do much better than that unless you are going significantly downhill.

OP, not sure why you're getting bent out of shape over this... Laws of physics > your speedometer, which is not accurate at those speeds anyways.
What's this? High school physics?
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 05:46 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

^^ No, it's a tech forum.
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Old Nov 11, 2011 | 05:51 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Also short geared trans..
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 01:43 AM
  #20  
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Well its been a while since I updated, got new clutch&flywheel installed, been breaking her in, but I was too tempted to open her up on the autobahn. shes running great so here's a teaser pix.


But besides that, I found a great deal on some rims on the base junkyard that I couldn't pass up, it'd probably be my spring clean up project along with the GS-R Blades.

Best $60 I ever spent.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 04:03 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

I'm surprised nobody mentioned this yet? You have a 98+ bumper on the car. You should try to find a set of 98+ headlights so there won't be a gap from headlights to bumper. Other than that its a nice/clean car.
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 07:53 AM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Originally Posted by furious94ls
I'm surprised nobody mentioned this yet? You have a 98+ bumper on the car. You should try to find a set of 98+ headlights so there won't be a gap from headlights to bumper. Other than that its a nice/clean car.
What is the differnce in the 94-97 bumper and 98-01 bumper? I cant seem to see the difference,but everyone is telling me there is lol?

Nice pick-up that Integra is nice!
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 02:06 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

get those 98+ headlights... of course theres a diff between those 2 bumpers the 94+ and 98+
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 07:48 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

Originally Posted by 94IntegraRS
What is the differnce in the 94-97 bumper and 98-01 bumper? I cant seem to see the difference,but everyone is telling me there is lol?

Nice pick-up that Integra is nice!
https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1279247088

The 98-01 Front bumper is the more aggressive looking one with the slanted/angled highbeam curvature
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 09:11 PM
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Default Re: My Green Goblin

nice man. keep it up
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