My Green Goblin
Well its been about 4years since I've owned a car, due to the fact I moved to a different state straight out of high school on my own, and partied for 2years of my life, ended up joining the military and getting station in Germany.
Its a 96 GS-R, all stock from what I can tell, but needs some tlc.

I'll upload more pictures, when I get time.
Problems that are known,
Windows and power locks don't work. thinking its the main relay.
CEL is on, need to find out what code its popping, and my major problem would be it doesn't want to shift into gears at high rpm's, i'm thinking its the clutch master cylinder, but the guy i bought it off of says it could be the transmission synchronizer, can anyone put in any input to help me out?
Its a 96 GS-R, all stock from what I can tell, but needs some tlc.

I'll upload more pictures, when I get time.
Problems that are known,
Windows and power locks don't work. thinking its the main relay.
CEL is on, need to find out what code its popping, and my major problem would be it doesn't want to shift into gears at high rpm's, i'm thinking its the clutch master cylinder, but the guy i bought it off of says it could be the transmission synchronizer, can anyone put in any input to help me out?
Power windows and power locks are on diff. circuits, power windows are on an ign. circuit, [hot in run], there is a relay for the power windows, the power door locks are on a 12V constant circuit, [hot at all times] and controlled by the "Power Door Lock Control Unit".
The first thing I would look for is damage to wiring in the drivers door wire boot, [harness that runs from door to cabin in the door jamb] damage to wiring in the door boot is common, more so in drivers door as it is the one that is opened/closed the most.
The best way to inspect the wiring is to, remove door panel, remove speaker and speaker housing, unplug the harness at the "A" pillar and pull the harness into the door and out the speaker opening, that will allow to "un-tape" the boot and slide it down the harness so you can see the wiring in the boot.
Obviously the best fix is to replace the door harness, a new one will not be cheap and finding a used one without the same problem, could be a problem.
A cheaper fix is to repair the wiring, installing butt connectors is not an option, solder and shrink tubing is the best option.
Again, obviously you need to check fuses first, do not just eyeball the fuses, test them or replace them with new or known working fuses...
PDLCU fuse is fuse 6 - 20A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
Power window fuses...
Main fuse is fuse 36 - 50A, hot at all times] in engine bay fuse box.
Main relay fuse is fuse 14 - 20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
Window fuses are fuse 5 - 20A (drivers) and fuse 8 - 20A (passengers), [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box, relay is also in under dash fuse box. 94
The first thing I would look for is damage to wiring in the drivers door wire boot, [harness that runs from door to cabin in the door jamb] damage to wiring in the door boot is common, more so in drivers door as it is the one that is opened/closed the most.
The best way to inspect the wiring is to, remove door panel, remove speaker and speaker housing, unplug the harness at the "A" pillar and pull the harness into the door and out the speaker opening, that will allow to "un-tape" the boot and slide it down the harness so you can see the wiring in the boot.
Obviously the best fix is to replace the door harness, a new one will not be cheap and finding a used one without the same problem, could be a problem.
A cheaper fix is to repair the wiring, installing butt connectors is not an option, solder and shrink tubing is the best option.
Again, obviously you need to check fuses first, do not just eyeball the fuses, test them or replace them with new or known working fuses...
PDLCU fuse is fuse 6 - 20A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
Power window fuses...
Main fuse is fuse 36 - 50A, hot at all times] in engine bay fuse box.
Main relay fuse is fuse 14 - 20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
Window fuses are fuse 5 - 20A (drivers) and fuse 8 - 20A (passengers), [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box, relay is also in under dash fuse box. 94
sounds to me that the shifting problem could be in the tranny, if was the clutch master cylinder you should see the same or near the same problem at low rpm. the clutch being pressed is irrelevant to engine rpm.
Power windows and power locks are on diff. circuits, power windows are on an ign. circuit, [hot in run], there is a relay for the power windows, the power door locks are on a 12V constant circuit, [hot at all times] and controlled by the "Power Door Lock Control Unit".
The first thing I would look for is damage to wiring in the drivers door wire boot, [harness that runs from door to cabin in the door jamb] damage to wiring in the door boot is common, more so in drivers door as it is the one that is opened/closed the most.
The best way to inspect the wiring is to, remove door panel, remove speaker and speaker housing, unplug the harness at the "A" pillar and pull the harness into the door and out the speaker opening, that will allow to "un-tape" the boot and slide it down the harness so you can see the wiring in the boot.
Obviously the best fix is to replace the door harness, a new one will not be cheap and finding a used one without the same problem, could be a problem.
A cheaper fix is to repair the wiring, installing butt connectors is not an option, solder and shrink tubing is the best option.
Again, obviously you need to check fuses first, do not just eyeball the fuses, test them or replace them with new or known working fuses...
PDLCU fuse is fuse 6 - 20A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
Power window fuses...
Main fuse is fuse 36 - 50A, hot at all times] in engine bay fuse box.
Main relay fuse is fuse 14 - 20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
Window fuses are fuse 5 - 20A (drivers) and fuse 8 - 20A (passengers), [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box, relay is also in under dash fuse box. 94
The first thing I would look for is damage to wiring in the drivers door wire boot, [harness that runs from door to cabin in the door jamb] damage to wiring in the door boot is common, more so in drivers door as it is the one that is opened/closed the most.
The best way to inspect the wiring is to, remove door panel, remove speaker and speaker housing, unplug the harness at the "A" pillar and pull the harness into the door and out the speaker opening, that will allow to "un-tape" the boot and slide it down the harness so you can see the wiring in the boot.
Obviously the best fix is to replace the door harness, a new one will not be cheap and finding a used one without the same problem, could be a problem.
A cheaper fix is to repair the wiring, installing butt connectors is not an option, solder and shrink tubing is the best option.
Again, obviously you need to check fuses first, do not just eyeball the fuses, test them or replace them with new or known working fuses...
PDLCU fuse is fuse 6 - 20A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
Power window fuses...
Main fuse is fuse 36 - 50A, hot at all times] in engine bay fuse box.
Main relay fuse is fuse 14 - 20A, [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box.
Window fuses are fuse 5 - 20A (drivers) and fuse 8 - 20A (passengers), [hot in run and start] in under dash fuse box, relay is also in under dash fuse box. 94
thanks for your input, i'll look at it tomorrow after work :D
at high rev's it feels like i cant find a gear to either up/down shift. it happens from time to time.
A little update, fixed my CEL, so i'm vtaking around Europe :D. tranny starting to act nice and go into gears.
but still having a issue with windows/locks/mirrors, owner before me installed alarm system and i guess that screwed everything up. so i'ma going to have to have someone else with this knowledge to look at it when i get a chance.
kinda hung over from the night before so heres a little tease of the green goblin.
Enjoy!

but still having a issue with windows/locks/mirrors, owner before me installed alarm system and i guess that screwed everything up. so i'ma going to have to have someone else with this knowledge to look at it when i get a chance.
kinda hung over from the night before so heres a little tease of the green goblin.
Enjoy!

Should be a fun car once you get it running. Nice to see a stock GS-R on here. Also Euro plates > NA plates
I had the same power windows/doors problem and the ground pulled out of the wiring harness connector in the driver door area. If windows/doors/mirrors are all out the only thing they have in common is a ground, so check that. I moved the ground to the door and problem solved.
I had the same power windows/doors problem and the ground pulled out of the wiring harness connector in the driver door area. If windows/doors/mirrors are all out the only thing they have in common is a ground, so check that. I moved the ground to the door and problem solved.
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Of course you need power to go fast. At high speed you need enough power to counteract deceleration caused by wind and road resistance. GS-Rs top out at about 130 mph in stock form. You'll never be able to do much better than that unless you are going significantly downhill.
OP, not sure why you're getting bent out of shape over this... Laws of physics > your speedometer, which is not accurate at those speeds anyways.
OP, not sure why you're getting bent out of shape over this... Laws of physics > your speedometer, which is not accurate at those speeds anyways.
Of course you need power to go fast. At high speed you need enough power to counteract deceleration caused by wind and road resistance. GS-Rs top out at about 130 mph in stock form. You'll never be able to do much better than that unless you are going significantly downhill.
OP, not sure why you're getting bent out of shape over this... Laws of physics > your speedometer, which is not accurate at those speeds anyways.
OP, not sure why you're getting bent out of shape over this... Laws of physics > your speedometer, which is not accurate at those speeds anyways.
Well its been a while since I updated, got new clutch&flywheel installed, been breaking her in, but I was too tempted to open her up on the autobahn. shes running great so here's a teaser pix.

But besides that, I found a great deal on some rims on the base junkyard that I couldn't pass up, it'd probably be my spring clean up project along with the GS-R Blades.

Best $60 I ever spent.

But besides that, I found a great deal on some rims on the base junkyard that I couldn't pass up, it'd probably be my spring clean up project along with the GS-R Blades.

Best $60 I ever spent.
I'm surprised nobody mentioned this yet? You have a 98+ bumper on the car. You should try to find a set of 98+ headlights so there won't be a gap from headlights to bumper. Other than that its a nice/clean car.
Nice pick-up that Integra is nice!
The 98-01 Front bumper is the more aggressive looking one with the slanted/angled highbeam curvature



