Ever since i put my freshly built engine in my teg 6 years ago i always have to fill my reservoir bottle up every couple days...I can run a pressure test and it literally holds 16psi for hours, over two, thats with my reservoir also pressurized. Coolant doesnt blow out my exhaust either, i run a fluidyne full sized.

So where can my coolant be going? Rad cap?

 

pressure test it with the motor hot.

what head, studs gasket, and were they ever retorqued?

 

done, same thing no drop in pressure, apr studs

 

any leaks anywhere?

 

no leaks, zero pressure drop

 

retourque ur head studs. may be happening underboost where your peek cylinder pressures are the highest.

 

Ill do that, good idea hmmm whats the arp torque..

 

coolant is not suppose to disappear..the coolant in my teg has always been between min and max. never had to add coolant.

if you dont see leaks or something, i have a feeling its evaporating from high temps.

my friend has to add coolant to his civic every week or so.....its suffered from some overheats.

 

My integra never overheated not one time, could a bad radiator cap have anything to do with it. Im a chk my arp torque tomorrow

 

mine are torqued to 72lbs. do you know the correct way to re-torque? have they ever been?

 

I called arp and they said its not recommended to retighten the arp head stud, what would be your procedure to retighten..

 

Honda specify to retorque twice.

It is not because the studs work lose or where not acurately tightened, it's because the head and the gasket compress and settle during the first full heat cycle.

Aluminium expands a lot more than steel, so as the head heats up it expands more than the bolts and the bolts get tighter and crush the bolt bosses and gasket more. As the head cools and shrinks the bolts are now at less than spec.

A retighten gets it back to spec. This time the gasket and head are already precrushed so the crush canot become as much so the bolts stretch within their elastic limit as they where designed to and don't lose as much tension this time.

A really good gasket, a used head but with perfect surface and a block with a perfect surface and good studs might let you get away with it if you don't ask to much from it, but retorquing is the best procedure for gauranteedreliability under heavy duty conditions.

start in order 1-10, ONE AT A TIME, back off one full turn with something other then your torque wrench, torque down in one step to desired torque (72 is a number i have found that works great)

I hope this helps

 

also, you would be able to see if it is a bad cap. coolant would be dripping around that area and you would see residue.

 

Do you believe in magic?

 

Had same issue and me and other honda techs think its just evaporating due to alot of underhood heat.

 

Since when does coolant evaporate lols!

 

the vapor pressure of water at 197*F is only 0.011PSI. (Glycol is lower) so unless his system is under a vacuum or using isopropylalkohol as coolant, its not evaporating.